budget 31 spline help

[copmagnet]

As much as I hate to admit I am wrong..I'f I am going to continue to drag my car like I am, I'm going to need to go 31 spline. my original plan was to wait till I broke my 28 spline diff, but with my house being 3.5 hours away thats a long ass tow truck ride. so my plan is to budget build a 31 spline ass and install it on one of these 96's so that my car is never "down" since I kinda need my car.

*EDIT* getting the 31 spline diff from snivetroll, so now the plan is to either find some factory 31 spline axles that are the same length as my current or just buy some moser 31 spline. and of course get a rear end rebuild kit, oil and friction modifier. I may also have the axle tubes welded at the same time. do I need to pull my whole ass off to have them welded or can it be done while they are on the car?

http://www.americanmuscle.com/moser-31spline-88-axle-9904.html

http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-88-pinion-kit-8604.html

anything else I need? what would be the advantages of doing a C-clip eliminator?

Edited June 6, 2013 by copmagnet

[SniveTroll]

i have a fresh rebuilt 31 spline tlok. with half carbon disc and metal clutches. i will part with it. with leave permitting i can deliver to schiff. hit me up if this sparks your interest.

[copmagnet]

text me, 7577711416

[Schiffy]

i have a fresh rebuilt 31 spline tlok. with half carbon disc and metal clutches. i will part with it. with leave permitting i can deliver to schiff. hit me up if this sparks your interest.

Hunter, I can grab it and get it to you next time you're in town.

Tapatalk made me do it!

[copmagnet]

That works, I was talking to snive last night and he said he would get it to you. I love this forum.

[Schiffy]

That works, I was talking to snive last night and he said he would get it to you. I love this forum.

Yeah, he said he's coming to town soon... Here's a question... I have a diff at the house. Can I pick up a rebuild kit and 31spline spider gears for it?

Tapatalk made me do it!

[Psychorugby]

Well since I plan to build one myself... any ideas other than this kit from LMR?

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-4204SDK-D/94-98-Mustang-88-31-Spline-Severe-Duty-Rear-Axle-Kit-5-Lug-410-Gears

[copmagnet]

Yeah, he said he's coming to town soon... Here's a question... I have a diff at the house. Can I pick up a rebuild kit and 31spline spider gears for it?

Tapatalk made me do it!

I honestly don't know if the 28 and 31 spline have the same carrier. May be an option, spider gears brand new are 30 bucks on ebay.

- - - Updated - - -

Well since I plan to build one myself... any ideas other than this kit from LMR?

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-4204SDK-D/94-98-Mustang-88-31-Spline-Severe-Duty-Rear-Axle-Kit-5-Lug-410-Gears

Im buying pretty much all the same stuff just from all over. I like finding new stuff half off because its not going to get used. Im trying to keep it under 600 bucks.

[Psychorugby]

Im buying pretty much all the same stuff just from all over. I like finding new stuff half off because its not going to get used. Im trying to keep it under 600 bucks.

That is ideally what I would do, but I cannot locate any of the parts separately. If anyone has some laying around, I'll be happy to talk!

[copmagnet]

That is ideally what I would do, but I cannot locate any of the parts separately. If anyone has some laying around, I'll be happy to talk!

I posted the link to the two major things, all you need would be axles and a C-clip eliminator (i havent found that one yet). pick up some gear oil and friction modifier (35 bucks at autozone) and your golden like a shower.

[Schiffy]

I posted the link to the two major things, all you need would be axles and a C-clip eliminator (i havent found that one yet). pick up some gear oil and friction modifier (35 bucks at autozone) and your golden like a shower.

If you're going c clip eliminator, make sure you get the right axles, also, don't you on most c clip eliminated axles have to remove the ABS ring?

Tapatalk made me do it!

[copmagnet]

yea, thats why im still unsure about them. plus they leak... I mean worse case the calipers should hold the axles in.

[64bit_Tuning]

You don't need c-clip eliminators.

You won't find factory 31 spline axles.

You can't swap spider gears from a 31 spline carrier to a 28 spline carrier.

Got any other questions?

[copmagnet]

You don't need c-clip eliminators. Thats what I figured

You won't find factory 31 spline axles. Fuck. oh well

You can't swap spider gears from a 31 spline carrier to a 28 spline carrier. There you go schiff

Got any other questions?

does the axle need to come off to weld the tubes, or can they be welded on the vehicle? I really dont want to pull it off. but one of the guys here at work is a welder so..

[copmagnet]

welp, looks like I have everything I need

i'll post photos as it all come in.

[64bit_Tuning]

Welding the tubes is a pointless mod.

Look into a CHE axle brace.

[copmagnet]

eh...do I really need an axle brace... at this power level.. ?

[64bit_Tuning]

You want to weld the tubes, but you don't want an axle brace?

Must be a marine.

[PRPVinyl]

At your current power level you would not need to weld the axles tubes. I do agree with MK2 that the axle brace would be a better option on the long run

matt

[copmagnet]

You want to weld the tubes, but you don't want an axle brace?

Must be a marine.

I can have tubes welded for FREE. if you WERE a marine, you would understand why I like the FREE option..

I'm not trying to argue, I'm simply trying to learn.

[64bit_Tuning]

apparently it's not sinking into that meat head of yours. Welding the tubes on your axle is f****** pointless

[copmagnet]

then explain, if its pointless why do people do it! you simply saying its pointless doesnt help me.

I fail to understand why you constantly act like a dick towards me and another members.

http://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/1199984-welding-axle-tube-housing.html

^^post 3.

That would have been an acceptable answer.

Edited June 6, 2013 by copmagnet

[PRPVinyl]

The reason I feel the brace is better than welding is simply the fact that if the person welding the tubes does not do it correctly you are left with warped ale tubes or a week differential. If your buddy the welder warps an axle tube because he put too much heat to it who is going to pay to replace the axle housing and axle tubes. You axle tubes are steel the differential housing is nodular iron. Does your buddy have the appropriate rods to weld iron to steel? does he have the equipment to heat the diff before welding. Sometimes free is not better

matt

[Luis@OrtizPerformance]

I've always used Expedition diffs. 31 spline and they come with 3.73s for about 150 for both. Can't beat that.

[1997cobra]

then explain, if its pointless why do people do it! you simply saying its pointless doesnt help me.

I fail to understand why you constantly act like a dick towards me and another members.

http://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/1199984-welding-axle-tube-housing.html

^^post 3.

That would have been an acceptable answer.

If you weld them, make sure it is done right. It is not pointless

The reason I feel the brace is better than welding is simply the fact that if the person welding the tubes does not do it correctly you are left with warped ale tubes or a week differential. If your buddy the welder warps an axle tube because he put too much heat to it who is going to pay to replace the axle housing and axle tubes. You axle tubes are steel the differential housing is nodular iron. Does your buddy have the appropriate rods to weld iron to steel? does he have the equipment to heat the diff before welding. Sometimes free is not better

matt

pretty much. If it isnt preheated and special nickle rod is not used, the casting will turn brittle

I've always used Expedition diffs. 31 spline and they come with 3.73s for about 150 for both. Can't beat that.

explorers also have 31 spline diffs. Not sure what years though

[64bit_Tuning]

then explain, if its pointless why do people do it! you simply saying its pointless doesnt help me.

I fail to understand why you constantly act like a dick towards me and another members.

http://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/1199984-welding-axle-tube-housing.html

^^post 3.

That would have been an acceptable answer.

If I had to explain myself every time I answered a question, I wouldnt have time to shit.

let me ask you this. If your CO tells you not to do something... do you ask him why?

Don't doubt me. ever. Its not good for you.

[64bit_Tuning]

[Det_Riot]

ehhl oh ehl oh keith. I would like to know though, why welding tubes is basically useless..... but something i'd like to know more, is what is the fancy business about running a 9"end on an 8.8" rear and how do you do it?!

[Schiffy]

Dig it

Tapatalk made me do it!

[64bit_Tuning]

ehhl oh ehl oh keith. I would like to know though, why welding tubes is basically useless..... but something i'd like to know more, is what is the fancy business about running a 9"end on an 8.8" rear and how do you do it?!

In all the years that I've been around mustangs, I have yet to see someone spin a tube. Along with what was posted before about the cost of doing such correctly, I still say the axle brace is the better idea. Not only will it prevent (or minimize) a twisted tube, but it also triangulates the rear end. This prevents the axle from "bowing" when you launch. when you compare the cost and benefit of the brace, it greatly outweighs the effort that must go into welding axle tubes.

As for 9" ends on an 8.8... You are aware that 9" ends are pressed onto the axle, right? Its basically a C-clip eliminator. Should the axle shaft break, itll stay contained in the housing.

[Det_Riot]

No, I had no idea what it was or anything, I had just heard of it and wondered why people do it

[SniveTroll]

the fabricator that did my work had some 8.8s lying around. some of the best in NJ and northeast have gone to him. usually when bearings and axles lockup during a launch break the pin in the rear housing.

[copmagnet]

hey snive, that weld was pointless!

[Schiffy]

Hey Jason, nice ass...

Tapatalk made me do it!

[revhead347]

You don't need c-clip eliminators.

You won't find factory 31 spline axles.

You can't swap spider gears from a 31 spline carrier to a 28 spline carrier.

Got any other questions?

You aren't the most subtle person on this website, but I'm really starting to like you. You really know how to cut through the BS. Though I do disagree about welding the tubes to a certain degree.

To the OP, you need a 31 spline setup like you need a 500lb. hooker riding in the back seat when you race. Put some nice 28 spline axles in the back and rebuilt the stock locker and you are absolutely good to go. In 104mph car, that rear end will outlast a number of pieces upstream of it. You are much better off with a well built 28 spline setup that a budget 31 spline axle. If down the road you end up with a 120+ mph car, then start looking at building a 31 spline setup.

Don't worry about C-clip eliminators. The purpose of a C-clip eliminator is to keep the axle from free sliding out of the tube after it breaks in a drum brake car., resulting in an uncontrolled state where you crash your car. You do not have drum brakes, and the brake calipers will keep the axle from free sliding. C-clip eliminators do absolutely nothing to keep the axle from breaking in the first place.

Where I disagree with MK2, welding the tubes to the pumpkin keeps the tube from bending sideways in the case, not spinning. If you can get someone to do it correctly, then it's worth it. If it's just someone that happens to have a welder, and therefore thinks this is simply a case of welding two pieces of steel together, then pass. It has to be done correctly, or you will end up doing more damage than good.

Finally, if you really want to avoid an expensive tow bill, then take the money you were going to spend on a recockulously over proportioned axle, and get an annual membership in AAA. That will at least cover your hook up fee and the first 100 miles. If you drag race, then you will break down at the track. That is an absolute. You can build the strongest axle in the world, and then your MSD box, or your clutch, or etc etc etc will break.

Kurt

- - - Updated - - -

the fabricator that did my work had some 8.8s lying around. some of the best in NJ and northeast have gone to him. usually when bearings and axles lockup during a launch break the pin in the rear housing.

I guess if I did welds that nice, I wouldn't have to fly a damn airplane everyday to scrape by. Damn that is some nice work.

Kurt

Edited June 8, 2013 by revhead347
typo

[copmagnet]

So, instead of just doing this once, your saying i should do this multiple times in the next year..? because in the next year I will be picking up more power and faster time, and I will be launching on slicks. I looked at doing a built 28 spline and all i found were threads on svt and M1R that said dont do it, and people were still snapping or bending 28 spline axles.

I'm expecting to pick up 2-3 MPH on radials..thats putting me around 112-113 trap speed. plus once my cams go in, and i get my suspension in.. I could easily be 120+mph. people with the same mods as me are trapping 120 mph.....

[revhead347]

So, instead of just doing this once, your saying i should do this multiple times in the next year..? because in the next year I will be picking up more power and faster time, and I will be launching on slicks. I looked at doing a built 28 spline and all i found were threads on svt and M1R that said dont do it, and people were still snapping or bending 28 spline axles.

I'm expecting to pick up 2-3 MPH on radials..thats putting me around 112-113 trap speed. plus once my cams go in, and i get my suspension in.. I could easily be 120+mph. people with the same mods as me are trapping 120 mph.....

You'll be fine. You should not be snapping 28 spline at even 120mph with slicks.

Kurt

[copmagnet]

I found this thread and read through it a couple times but I still have questions.

http://www.sn95source.com/showthread.php?2357-Differential-and-31-Spline-Axle-install

If I am only replacing the differential and axles, do I still need to replace the pinion bearing and crush sleeve (since the preload is already set)? or can I just put my 4.30 on the new diff, shim it and be good?

Edited July 26, 2013 by copmagnet

[copmagnet]

bump? where all the guru's at?

[Det_Riot]

fuggg i got no idea. lemme shot a text