GearGambler Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 i'm putting together a new motor for my daily driver. its a 306 with GT40 heads, good springs and 1.72 rockers, an FTI cam and a cobra intake. It will need the 50oz balancer. This is not a race car, it's my daily driver. With that being said, I would like to put a decent harmonic damper on there because I do put it through its paces when I commute . It has a stock replacement damper - the stock bonded one came apart about 1.5 years ago. Here are just a few:Ford Racing M-6316-A50 ($294)Summit has bracket ($146), and street / strip dampers($321)Pioneer has street ($125) and race dampers ($180)trick flow makes a track max damper ($160)I would like to keep this under $200. prices above are for new - so some deal may present itself. Let me know your thoughts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 I have a powerbond Sfi only200$ haven't put my engine together yet but it is a very we'll built damper. So that's another option, and if I'm not mistakin pioneer and power bond are the same company? So the pioneer should be good too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 If you plan on taking it to the track I'd get an sfi certed balancer just for piece of mindSent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeperstang1994 Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 i cant speak from experience. As stated though if you want to be safe stick with an SFI approval. Ive sold a few through CJ's and the Ford Racing unit seems resonably popular. It hard to argue with a race product made by the company that originally made your engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearGambler Posted February 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 Thanks for the feedback! Yes, I will definitely go with SFI rated balancer. I'm leaning toward the pioneer race. Decent price, I don't need to buy an additional spacer and SFI approved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blubyu90 Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 I had a Ford Racing on my old coupe. It looked super nice out of the box, but was hard to see the timing marks and got kinda rusty. Never had a problem with the balancer itself though. If I were to do it again I would try to get an anodized balancer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 I had a Ford Racing on my old coupe. It looked super nice out of the box, but was hard to see the timing marks and got kinda rusty. Never had a problem with the balancer itself though. If I were to do it again I would try to get an anodized balancer.This. I'm having the same experience on my car. I actually had to paint lines on the balancer for timing purposes.Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-Oh Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 That's what I had to do too Bryan. Eff trying to see those marks. Sent from Space Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95opal Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 Pioneer SFI on my old combo never had to worry about it. Spend the couple extra $ and get an SFI approved balancer and your good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 I cannot read this. therefore i cannot talk about harmonic dampers.. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musturd Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 I could careless about ever buying anything from ford racing again aside from floor matts or valve covers or maybe some spark plug wires .... After all the horror stories with there crate engines big money aluminators being junk right from the factory or big cube strokers . I'm taking from a few good friends terminators , they have some of the shittiest customer service too ... That being said like others stated sfi spec is the way to go I run a powerbond Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 And if you have a little extra money to throw around with it get and Sfi flywheel for peice of mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blwnbyu Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 Ford Racing is a joke.. Pioneer SFI.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-Oh Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 I couldn't care less about ever buying anything from ford racing again aside from floor matts or valve covers or maybe some spark plug wires .... After all the horror stories with there crate engines big money aluminators being junk right from the factory or big cube strokers . I'm taking from a few good friends terminators , they have some of the shittiest customer service too ... That being said like others stated sfi spec is the way to go I run a powerbondSkewing off topic a little: Speaking from experience, I have nothing but good things to say about FRPP's warranty handling department. Yes, my brand new crate motor failing after less then 1,000 miles was a huge disappointment, very upsetting and set me back 1 year, but they were very helpful and accommodating with transporting it back and forth and dealing with the issues. Sent from Space Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musturd Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 Skewing off topic a little: Speaking from experience, I have nothing but good things to say about FRPP's warranty handling department. Yes, my brand new crate motor failing after less then 1,000 miles was a huge disappointment, very upsetting and set me back 1 year, but they were very helpful and accommodating with transporting it back and forth and dealing with the issues. Sent from SpaceYour the only person I know who's motor was warrantied my buddies had no miles on it either really and was missing half a rod bearing completely from the factory .... Boom 7k down the toilet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearGambler Posted February 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 shitty formatting! My apologies. I think I fixed it. I cannot read this. therefore i cannot talk about harmonic dampers.. lol again, I appreciate all the feedback! As for the flywheel - that is a good point. I put a stock, freshly surfaced flywheel back in the car just recently. now that the disk is bedded to the flywheel, that stock flywheel will most likely not be upgraded. I'm not racing the car, but I do want some quality parts in it! see thread here: http://www.sn95source.com/topic/3511-drivetrain-upgrade-clutch-and-other-goodies/That's what I had to do too Bryan. Eff trying to see those marks.Sent from Space one more thing. I'll need to degree the cam when it is installed. that means that I'll find TDC and adjust the pointer so it is on the mark on the balancer. Or I'll make my own marks! point being - it will be dead on accurate. I've always used some sidewalk chalk. those stock rusty or black dampers have grooves cut in them for the timing marks. Rub the chalk in there, wipe off the excess - nice white timing marks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearGambler Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 I have the pioneer race balancer on the way! Nothing like sourcing it in good condition used for less than half price! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95opal Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 shitty formatting! My apologies. I think I fixed it. again, I appreciate all the feedback! As for the flywheel - that is a good point. I put a stock, freshly surfaced flywheel back in the car just recently. now that the disk is bedded to the flywheel, that stock flywheel will most likely not be upgraded. I'm not racing the car, but I do want some quality parts in it! see thread here: http://www.sn95source.com/topic/3511-drivetrain-upgrade-clutch-and-other-goodies/ one more thing. I'll need to degree the cam when it is installed. that means that I'll find TDC and adjust the pointer so it is on the mark on the balancer. Or I'll make my own marks! point being - it will be dead on accurate. I've always used some sidewalk chalk. those stock rusty or black dampers have grooves cut in them for the timing marks. Rub the chalk in there, wipe off the excess - nice white timing marks A piston stop and degree wheel is your best bet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blwnbyu Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 A piston stop and degree wheel is your best bet.Just remember when using the piston stop there will be slack in the chain when you rotate back the other direction, throwing it off a few degrees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95opal Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 Just remember when using the piston stop there will be slack in the chain when you rotate back the other direction, throwing it off a few degrees JFYI timing chain slack is not a factor when finding TDC with a piston stop and degree wheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearGambler Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 JFYI timing chain slack is not a factor when finding TDC with a piston stop and degree wheelThanks for the tips fellas! I do know that the difference between when the piston hits the stop going one way, and going the other way is usually due to the 'dwell' at TDC. True TDC is to split that difference right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blwnbyu Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 Thanks for the tips fellas! I do know that the difference between when the piston hits the stop going one way, and going the other way is usually due to the 'dwell' at TDC. True TDC is to split that difference right?Yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
