SneakySonBeach Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 so i am going to try and install a set of lowering springs on my 97 gt. i need schooled on the front end. i know to remove the caliper and sensor. the tie rod and sway bar. how sturdy is the cotter pin in the tie rod? will i need to buy new ones or can they be re-used? and then the strut bolts will drop the control arm and lower the jack. did i miss anything? and when they say pry the spring in, pry it how and where? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-Oh Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 You pretty much have it covered. Depending on how many times the pins been taken out will cause it to fatigue and break. They are cheap and readily available so if you want piece of mind then get new ones. When you lower the control arm down with the jack it should release all the tension in the spring, make sure there's no tension before you go messing with the spring. With the way the arm swings, the back part of the spring will still be seated in the perch some so a little bit of prying with a bar or good old strength will free it. I think I got it all.Sent from Space Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SublimeRT Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 I never bothered removing the tie rods from the spindle. I always just hang the caliper out of the way, remove the rotor, remove the speed sensor, unhook the sway bar from the control arms, put a jack under the lca, remove strut bolts/nuts at the tower, lower the control arm, compress the strut and tilt it out, push down on the control arm with my foot and pop the spring out. Once you get in there and start working on it you'll see it's not so bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 What everyone else said. Not sure how safety minded you are but if you want to be safe their a chain around the spring and the control arm encase something goes haywireSent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 i do pretty much the same, brakes off, tie rod end out of the knuckle, two bolts for the strut, and then lower the jack slowly. my stock springs did not even come close to shooting out, but they did need a little persuasion, i just pushed harder down on the a-arm and pulled on the spring and it popped right out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SneakySonBeach Posted March 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 i cant get that darn rear control arm bolt out. i got the nut off but the bolt isnt coming out . any tips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 i cant get that darn rear control arm bolt out. i got the nut off but the bolt isnt coming out . any tips you only need to drop the one thats connecting the control arm to the axle tube. i pull the sway bar, then put a jack under the arm, either run the bolt out with the impact/ratchet or hammer it out with a punch. then lower the control arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SneakySonBeach Posted March 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 yeah im trying the right one and when i use a hammer it doesnt move at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 yeah im trying the right one and when i use a hammer it doesnt move at allWonder if the bolt is seized to the metal sleeve in the bushing. if the bolt turns you could try putting a pry bar on the one end of the bolt and put pressure on it as you turn the bolt with a ratchet/impact Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-Oh Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 Add to cart x2: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/12mm-hardware-kit-for-RLCA-mounting-1979-98-Mustang-P1370.aspxSent from Space Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Psychorugby Posted March 28, 2014 Moderators Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 Impact wrench on 11 is always my answer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-Oh Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 If they were rotted like mine you're gonna want new hardware. Don't have to get it from MM but I knew they had them on their website, I'm sure CJ's carries it also.Sent from Space Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 sawzall and cut the bolt is an option too. just make sure to cut the bolt on the inside of the mounting tabs, closest to the bushing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SneakySonBeach Posted March 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 i got the front springs in! i will order those bolts and try again soon on the back. when i took her for a spin the front driver side wheel started making sound like thin metal scrapping and when its stopped it doesnt make the noise but when its moving its makes the noise. think it may be the brake pads arent seated right. any ideas guys? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 i got the front springs in! i will order those bolts and try again soon on the back. when i took her for a spin the front driver side wheel started making sound like thin metal scrapping and when its stopped it doesnt make the noise but when its moving its makes the noise. think it may be the brake pads arent seated right. any ideas guys?sounds like the dust shield on the back side of the rotor got bent a little. happens all the time. You can bend it back without taking anything off, turn the wheel, just reach back there and figure out which part is hitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SneakySonBeach Posted March 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 thats what im betting too i did that and it isnt making the noise now but i havent gone faster than 10mph yet lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnyxCobra Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 When I did my rear springs I didn't unbolt the control arm at all, I think it's easier that way. It may be difficult to remove the bolt because the rear suspension tension is holding it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SublimeRT Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 When I did my rear springs I didn't unbolt the control arm at all, I think it's easier that way. It may be difficult to remove the bolt because the rear suspension tension is holding it.+1. Unbolt rear shocks and sway bar and the rear end can usually droop and articulate enough to do the springs. Like someone else said though those control arm bolts can get pretty grungy over the years so in your case it's probably not a bad idea to remove/inspect/replace them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SneakySonBeach Posted March 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 im not sure if my factory springs are short enough to come out. i had to use a pry bar on the front to get the springs out of the control arm. caked in mud and rust. the bottom of both springs snapped off it was bad but i needed new springs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SneakySonBeach Posted March 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 couldnt believe how simple the suspension is though. a monkey could do this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-Oh Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 Yeah not surprised the front springs were broken, pretty standard.Sent from Space Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SneakySonBeach Posted March 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 i was shocked when i saw that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnyxCobra Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 +1 I found both my front springs broken too when I lowered my car for the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SneakySonBeach Posted March 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 +1 I found both my front springs broken too when I lowered my car for the first time.that is exactly how mine were! if my pops ever said anything about the drop i'd just show him the old springs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SneakySonBeach Posted March 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 does anyone have the proper torque specs for the tie rod and sway bar, i got some off another website and just wanna double check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-Oh Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 Sent from Space Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SneakySonBeach Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 thanks man! got everything right except the sway bar lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SneakySonBeach Posted April 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 second weekend trying to get the rear springs out and i found out the bolt is seized to the metal sleeve like stated before any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black & Red Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 FYI, if you lower 1" or more, you are going to encounter a 'slam' in the rear suspension over some bumps. The Bullitt mustangs had a shorter pinon snubber, but it's obsolete. now. You can remove the bracket for the axle damper weight and gain an inch of travel, or use Maximum Motorsports progressive urethane bumper...HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
