Lanter Posted January 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 Man, that ass shot is so good. I really like the all black fuel sump and lines/fittings as well. Most of the time I don't really care for that stuff to be really attention grabbing. I love the look of the control arms poking out from underneath as well. With people putting IRS exhaust on SRA cars these days it would be cool if there were a way to really show off both the LCAs and exhaust. I can't wait to see it with some tires and on the ground though. It's really gonna break some necks.Thanks man! I'm really liking how it's looking and I think with some polished tailpipes it will pop just enough and accent well with the all black tank and fittings. Tires are next up on the buy list so shouldn't be to long until I can see how the hole car will look on the ground. Only thing I'm a little worried about it the springs I have are cut.....but I'm not sure how much so hopefully the cars not to low as there's not going to be room to tuck these wheels and 315 tires lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedTwilight Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Looking good! What "T" fitting did you use on the brake lines? Did you have to re-flare the main brake line into the "T" or did it match the factory flare? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted January 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Looking good! What "T" fitting did you use on the brake lines? Did you have to re-flare the main brake line into the "T" or did it match the factory flare?I picked up the tee and lines from autozone and re-flared the factory line. I used a 20" and 40" line that already had both ends flared and the male fittings on them. The 40" was a little long so I cut it and re-flared it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tabres Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Great work! I like how you used over-sized, nicer hardware in the control arms, too. And dear Lord, those wheels look huge. Can't wait to see it on the ground and done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted January 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 Great work! I like how you used over-sized, nicer hardware in the control arms, too.And dear Lord, those wheels look huge. Can't wait to see it on the ground and done!Thanks man, yea I read a lot on stepping up to 14mm or 9/16 hardware so I figured it was cheap insurance and easy enough to drill out some mounts. Yea I can't believe how big the wheels look in that picture. Then the tires should be an inch wider lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted January 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 Always gotta love the "bigger is better" mindset!!!! Those wheels look effin sexy!!!!This message courtesy of crapatalk! Thanks man! I am really excited to see the car on the ground with a set of drag radials on the bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted January 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 Spent a little time working on the idle air control. Converted to all -10 fittings and braided nylon hose. First I had a -10 bung welded onto the intercooler piping leading to the throttle body. Then removed the pressed in metal fitting just under the IAC and tapped it for a 1/2" NPT to AN fitting. From there I assembled my -10 hose with one 45 degree fitting and one 180 degree fitting. Here it is all together Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SublimeRT Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 That's nice looking. Is that strictly cosmetic or does it prevent that hose from blowing off since the car is boosted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted January 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 That's nice looking. Is that strictly cosmetic or does it prevent that hose from blowing off since the car is boosted?Thanks man. No it's a mostly cosmetic deal. I had to weld a fitting on the intercooler pipe regardless so I figured I would put something that matches all my other lines. Instead of re-using the stock rubber hose and plastic pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedTwilight Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Looks great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Taking a step back the wheels look massive but they look like they'll sit close to flush when the cars at ride height. this is just so fn sick!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tabres Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Maybe you can tell me, because I've asked this to several people now... Does the stock IAC nipple literally just pull/wiggle out? And then I gather you just tap the intake and thread in the new fitting. Looks awesome. Definitely something I've wanted to do with my car for a long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted February 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Maybe you can tell me, because I've asked this to several people now... Does the stock IAC nipple literally just pull/wiggle out? And then I gather you just tap the intake and thread in the new fitting. Looks awesome. Definitely something I've wanted to do with my car for a long time. The nipple is pressed in and either corrosion glues it in over time or Ford used something similar to green locktite because its really in there. I have heard of some heating it up then with a pair of vise grips being able to get it to twist/wiggle out but I couldn't get mine (I didn't heat it though). I cut the end off the nipple then drilled it out and then ran my tap in to cut the treads for the 1/2" NPT to -10 AN fitting. Looks great!this is just so fn sick!!Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tabres Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 The nipple is pressed in and either corrosion glues it in over time or Ford used something similar to green locktite because its really in there. I have heard of some heating it up then with a pair of vise grips being able to get it to twist/wiggle out but I couldn't get mine (I didn't heat it though). I cut the end off the nipple then drilled it out and then ran my tap in to cut the treads for the 1/2" NPT to -10 AN fitting. That's interesting. I've been trying to find the answer to that question for two years. And now I'm switching to a 01 upper intake and it won't even matter for me... lol Looks killer. Gives the engine a very finished look. I always hated the rubber hose I used for my IAC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted February 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 That's interesting. I've been trying to find the answer to that question for two years. And now I'm switching to a 01 upper intake and it won't even matter for me... lolLooks killer. Gives the engine a very finished look. I always hated the rubber hose I used for my IAC.I can kind of feel your pain, though not to that extent. I researched for about a year or so with really no answers. Actually came across a couple of threads where you asked the question and got no answer lol. I didn't actually pull the fitting out though I'm just assuming that was the assembly process just from past experience with ford and working on similar parts at my current job. Thanks, I'm happy with it and trying to get everything matching is paying off ascetically. Honestly I never much noticed your IAC hose, I think because your fuel lines really look large being the series 8000 hose that it took my eye straight to it lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted February 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 I know your wheels are only .5 bigger then mine but that pic makes em look so much bigger.Maybe it's just the way the irs makes all look.Either way, when we gonna see some tires on this beast with it back on the ground?!??This message courtesy of crapatalk! Yea they just look monstrous with no tires. I'll have tires on it by April I'd say, really no big push right now since the car won't be back on the ground until spring to let all the salt to wash off the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tabres Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Random, but is your plan still to have Kurgan to tune it? Have you talked to him at all about when he is going to be in the area? I'm trying to find out so I can get a retune this spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted February 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Random, but is your plan still to have Kurgan to tune it? Have you talked to him at all about when he is going to be in the area? I'm trying to find out so I can get a retune this spring. So far that is still the plan. He told me he comes up 3-4 times a year but never gave me an actual date. He also said there was the option of remote tuning in Indianapolis but I am not sure I want to go that route. I'd really rather the person that tunes my car to be there in person. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted March 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2016 (edited) Finally some thread worthy updates. I purchased a flywheel a while back from a 03 cobra that needed resurfaced. I ended up just sending it to McLeod to have them replace the friction ring instead of resurfacing it so I go that back and all I need is to pick up a RXT/RST. I haven't decided which but am leaning towards the RXT. I also picked up a SLP loudmouth 1 catback from SVTp's classifieds. Exhaust was in great shape but in just raw stainless so I spent way too much time sanding the pipes down and polishing them. Here's the exhaust right out of the box. Process started by sanding with 80 grit and my orbital sander. Then 220 and 320 grit Then stepping up to 400, 600, 800. Final sanding started with 1000 then moved to 1500 and then 2000 grit. Then I polished all the pipes and hung them on the car. They still need adjusted but that'll have to wait for the transmission and clutch to arrive and be installed. Here is the untouched pipe on the left with the polished on the right. They aren't perfect but look way better IMO. All that's left on the car are clutch and transmission. Then hook the rest of the exhaust up including welding on a 3" v band to get rid of the band clamp where the downpipe meets the rest of the exhaust. Then off to have the car tuned once the clutch is broken in and any leaks are fixed. Edited March 28, 2016 by Lanter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted March 28, 2016 Report Share Posted March 28, 2016 That exhaust looks great! Nothing better than IRS pipes polished up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted March 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2016 2 hours ago, 95riosnake said: That exhaust looks great! Nothing better than IRS pipes polished up Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted April 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2016 Earlier in the week I purchased some of the last parts I needed to finish the car. I went through D&D Performance for a close ratio t56 magnum along with the install kit with the proper flange on the drive shaft for my 03 IRS. Also picked up a McLeod RXT, new ford clutch fork, new ford racing clutch release bearing, and a steeda tri-ax shifter arm. Almost a shame to cover up the RXT, it's such a sweet looking setup. I was able to install the clutch but the trans will have to wait until the clutch fork gets here Monday. First step was installing my 03 cobra flywheel (recently refurbed by McLeod). Followed by the lower clutch disk. Then the lower disk retainer. Second clutch disk was next to be installed. After that came the pressure plate. One of my favorite features of the t56 is the fact you can separate it from the bellhousing. Makes for a super easy bellhousing install and a lot more room to get the starter mounted. I know that was a lot of pictures just for a clutch install but I figured there may be some out there that haven't seen the dual disk clutch apart and what steps are involved in installing one. Next on my list are getting the trans installed and splice in the new wiring pigtails. Then I'll need to modify the factory trans crossmember to fit the magnum. Typically you can just move the 96-98 cobra crossmember brackets back and redrill the holes for it but my subframe connectors have been welded in and will prevent the brackets from moving back. So I am thinking I can just add a steel plate to the factory cross member to get it to work. Really hoping to finish the install in the next couple weeks so I can get some miles on it before taking it to get tuned. Still shooting for Indianapolis street car takeover in May. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tabres Posted April 3, 2016 Report Share Posted April 3, 2016 18 hours ago, Lanter said: Typically you can just move the 96-98 cobra crossmember brackets back and redrill the holes for it but my subframe connectors have been welded in and will prevent the brackets from moving back. So I am thinking I can just add a steel plate to the factory cross member to get it to work. That is the same issue I ran into. Originally I tried to cut the welds on the brackets and just move them but it wound up being the biggest pain in the rear. Just as you were thinking, I actually wound up just having a plate welded onto the crossmember itself and it has worked great for several years now. I can grab a picture of mine for you if you'd like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted April 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 4 hours ago, Tabres said: That is the same issue I ran into. Originally I tried to cut the welds on the brackets and just move them but it wound up being the biggest pain in the rear. Just as you were thinking, I actually wound up just having a plate welded onto the crossmember itself and it has worked great for several years now. I can grab a picture of mine for you if you'd like. Man a picture would be great. That would save me some time in making templates if I have a general idea how much I need to extend the crossmember. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tabres Posted April 4, 2016 Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 12 hours ago, Lanter said: Man a picture would be great. That would save me some time in making templates if I have a general idea how much I need to extend the crossmember. Thanks! Sure thing, man. I can get some pictures this afternoon and take some rough measurements for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tabres Posted April 4, 2016 Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 Here are your photos. The additional area is built out of 1/4" plate, which I know is way overkill but my dad works for a heavy equipment manufacturer and that's what they had in their scrap pile so that's what we used. The new holes for the trans mount are approximately 7/8" on center from the front edge of the slots in the original area of the cross member. Hope this kind of helps you out a little bit! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted April 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 3 hours ago, Tabres said: Here are your photos. The additional area is built out of 1/4" plate, which I know is way overkill but my dad works for a heavy equipment manufacturer and that's what they had in their scrap pile so that's what we used. The new holes for the trans mount are approximately 7/8" on center from the front edge of the slots in the original area of the cross member. Hope this kind of helps you out a little bit! That's perfect. Thanks this will save me a ton of time.! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted April 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 (edited) Magnum is in, still need to add some vertical supports to the crossmember and paint. Last on the list are fluid for the trans, waiting on the driveshaft, installing the exhaust, rear tires, and then break in miles before getting the car tuned. Oh and fixing any leaks I probably have lol. Edited April 11, 2016 by Lanter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted May 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 Getting down to the wire now. I got my rear tires mounted and balanced today. They are Toyo proxes tq's in the 315/35-18 variety. They are a bit to wide for the IRS subframe bolts so it ground the head of the bolts down to get them to fit and will be ordering low profile bolts to take their place. So now I need to get the car scheduled at the exhaust shop to get the y-pipe trimmed to fit around the magnum better. After that it's fix any leaks and get miles on it before having it tuned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted May 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 Got the car onto the ground and took a quick drive Sunday. The parking brake cables are rubbing the tires so I need to tie those back a bit and the clutch was slipping something awful. Figured out the adjustment D&D emailed me lengthened the pivot ball 2mm which is what I did. After researching a bit most guys shorten the pivot ball 4-5mm, so with mine out that much the clutch never fully engaged so it would just slip with an throttle input. So last night I put the car back on jacks and pulled the trans to re-adjust the pivot ball down 4.5mm. Got it all buttoned back up and will be taking it to the exhaust shop tomorrow to have the exhaust fit to the car. Here are some pictures of the car down on the lemans. So the next update will hopefully be a driving update while I put miles on before the tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tabres Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 So nice. Love the Lemans. Killer job on the car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted May 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 1 hour ago, Tabres said: So nice. Love the Lemans. Killer job on the car! Thanks man! I appreciate the kind words. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 Looks badass! Quite a bit of rare on that car between the wheels and tails! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted May 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 20 minutes ago, 95riosnake said: Looks badass! Quite a bit of rare on that car between the wheels and tails! Thanks! I'm a sucker for rare parts for sure. I'd really like to get a set of mirrors and figure out what wing to go with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RideTech_Ryan Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 Love the wheels! They have always been up there on my list of favorites. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted May 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 1 hour ago, RideTech_Ryan said: Love the wheels! They have always been up there on my list of favorites. Thanks man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted May 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 (edited) Set up a tune appointment with Blankenship but it's not until July 13th. So looking like I have plenty of time to get miles on the car and fix any little issues. So here's to waiting 8 weeks Edited May 17, 2016 by Lanter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted June 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2016 Car's been aligned but since getting the car drivable I have been battling a chatter/rattle coming from the clutch. Most prominent when in neutral with the clutch engaged, sounds very similar to a bad/noisy clutch release bearing. So after pulling the transmission three times to re-adjust the pivot ball I still can't get rid of it. So I called D&D and they informed me the mcleods supplier for their floater plate started using taller rivets on the floater straps without letting McLeod know. Well according to them the rivets being taller cause a problem where something (couldn't get an exact answer) contacts the floater plate studs. Solution according to McLeod is to install shorter studs, so D&D overnighted a set to me so hopefully this weekend I can pull the trans, for the 4th time, and fix the chatter as it's driving me nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tabres Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 17 hours ago, Lanter said: Car's been aligned but since getting the car drivable I have been battling a chatter/rattle coming from the clutch. Most prominent when in neutral with the clutch engaged, sounds very similar to a bad/noisy clutch release bearing. So after pulling the transmission three times to re-adjust the pivot ball I still can't get rid of it. So I called D&D and they informed me the mcleods supplier for their floater plate started using taller rivets on the floater straps without letting McLeod know. Well according to them the rivets being taller cause a problem where something (couldn't get an exact answer) contacts the floater plate studs. Solution according to McLeod is to install shorter studs, so D&D overnighted a set to me so hopefully this weekend I can pull the trans, for the 4th time, and fix the chatter as it's driving me nuts. What a nightmare... kudos to you for sticking with it and having the transmission in and out three times, going on four. I would have burned the car to the ground already. Removing and installing the transmission is, by a HUGE margin, my least favorite thing to do on my car. How are you doing it on your own? Or do you have help? No matter what I do mine never, ever just slides in easily. I really need to just pony up and buy a transmission jack one of these days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanter Posted June 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 1 hour ago, Tabres said: What a nightmare... kudos to you for sticking with it and having the transmission in and out three times, going on four. I would have burned the car to the ground already. Removing and installing the transmission is, by a HUGE margin, my least favorite thing to do on my car. How are you doing it on your own? Or do you have help? No matter what I do mine never, ever just slides in easily. I really need to just pony up and buy a transmission jack one of these days. I couldn't agree more with pulling/installing the trans being my least favorite task. If I knew I would be pulling it 4 times I would have ponied up the 100-200 bucks for a trans jack. For now I just get the car up on jackstands and remove everything in the way then when the time comes my dad or brother come over to help get the trans out/back in, which even with two people is no easy task. It really is a horrible job but if this fixes it, and I really hope it does, it should be the last time I ever have to pull it. That's the only reason I bought the RXT and Magnum was knowing I didn't want to pull the trans ever again... yet here we are on number 4 lol. Building a car can have a sick sense of humor sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
