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M4Mustang

Solid vs Poly mounts.

Which motor/tranny mounts do you recommend?  

8 members have voted

  1. 1. Which motor/tranny mounts do you recommend?

    • Polyurethane mounts.
    • Solid mounts.
      0
    • Factory mounts.
    • Combination of the above.
      0


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So, I will be pulling the motor out of my teal '94 GT soon and I know that I will have to replace the (busted) motor mounts.

After a quick research, it seems that people prefer the poly motor mounts vs. the solid ones, only because of less vibration. It that the only real difference?

I had a '78 Datsun Z with a SBC, back in the day, and it had solid motor mounts and a solid tranny mount, but I forgot how harsh the ride was (or was not).

My plan for the car will be some all-around track use. I want to try some auto-crossing, but be able to do take the car out for some 1/4 mile fun.

If I do decide to go with solid motor mounts, will I have to use a solid tranny mount, too? I also plan to have a buddy of mine install through-the-floorpan sub-frame connectors and eventually install a roll bar/cage.

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I forgot to add that I will be daily driving my car and I do not mind a bumpy ride.

Most people in this town complain of driving vehicles with manual transmissions, but it does not bother me at all.

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I would definitely not recommend solid mounts on a car that isn't track only. You will be miserable daily driving it with solid mounts. I have the poly motor mounts and trans mount and have no complaints.

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Not to lead this thread astray, but how in the world do engine mounts affect ride quality anyhow?

With solid mounts, the power is transferred throughout the vehicle and causes the car to vibrate more. I believe more power is transferred to the wheels.

Stock or poly mounts absorb a lot of the energy and help create a smoother ride.

My old Z was running mid 11's (on juice), but it has been many years since I owned it. It was a total crap car, but was fast for a street racing car. I just want to find someone who is currently running solid mounts to see if it really helps any. I do not do a lot of street driving, too.

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When you got old broken motor mounts an tranny mounts it really makes it drive horribly. I can feel a broken trans mount right away. In everyday use a stock replacement trans mount will last me a week if that. A few hard powershifts and fail. I like the polyurethane mounts either energy or prothane. The little vibration for the direct feel is a sacrifice I can live with its hardly noticeable especially if your already driving a lumpy cammed up car you won't notice much

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I love my solid motor mounts. They are usually cheaper than stock or poly mounts, too. As Musturd says, once you get a lumpy cam, you are going to get vibration no matter what you do, and it's a negligible difference between the two aftermarket pieces. I daily drove it that way for over a year, with out any complaints from my wife or either of my little girls. They actually preferred to rid in it.

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When you look into poly mounts, make sure to remember that energy mounts either keep motor height or slightly drop it, and prothane mounts raise the engine up about 3/4" IIRC. Don't quote me on those measurements but quote me on the fact that prothanes raise your motor up.

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Rio how is the vibration and what not with the poly mounts vs the stock rubber ones?

It's hard to gauge it from stock motor mounts to the Energy poly motor mounts because they went in at the same time as the 347 with a much bigger cam compared to the stock short block with a mild cam.

However, I did the transmission mount quite a while ago and while I noticed slightly more vibration transferred into the shifter compared to the stock mount, it wasn't a lot more.

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well Idk bout that, i have a cam in my car and i don't get any vibration from it.

I don't know what cam you have, I can only give my experiences with what I have. I've got the XE274HR with .555/.565 lift, 274/282 duration, on a 112 LSA. 1.6 stud mounted roller rockers, SRP forged pistons. I did my engine swap at the same time as the solid motor mounts, but with the stock non-roller 302 on stock mounts that dynoed 220rwhp, to the roller 306 with HCI on solid mounts and making 330whp, I didn't really notice much difference, other than a slight bit of vibration at idle.

The more balanced your engine is, the less vibration you'll have.

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When you look into poly mounts, make sure to remember that energy mounts either keep motor height or slightly drop it, and prothane mounts raise the engine up about 3/4" IIRC. Don't quote me on those measurements but quote me on the fact that prothanes raise your motor up.

Very true. Most solid mounts keep stock height or lower the engine, as well. I used the 3/4" drop mounts for my project.

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SVT Rob, i'm not doubting that your cam shakes the car but there is a difference between the cam lope slightly rocking the car and the vibration you get from solid mounts. Sure my car shakes a little at idle, but there's no vibration.

Thanks Rio, well since you can't directly compare how are the poly mounts with your 347? I know its probably hard to explain, i just don't want interior rattles and crap from my engine.

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Onyx, not trying to argue with you, just saying that I've experienced little to no difference in vibration using solid or poly mounts. Yes, there is more than using stock rubber mounts, but no difference between the aftermarket options available, IMO. Maybe I've just been really lucky with the vehicles I've owned. :dunno:

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SVT Rob, i'm not doubting that your cam shakes the car but there is a difference between the cam lope slightly rocking the car and the vibration you get from solid mounts. Sure my car shakes a little at idle, but there's no vibration.

Thanks Rio, well since you can't directly compare how are the poly mounts with your 347? I know its probably hard to explain, i just don't want interior rattles and crap from my engine.

I like them, and wouldn't hesitate to recommend them to anyone. I don't get any interior rattles or anything, just a little bit more of the feel of the engine in the car...which I personally think is pretty cool.

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hmmm, alright. I may have to try them sometime in the near future, when I put my K member in I noticed one of the rubber ones i put in last time the engine was out had a decent amount of slack in it, figured next time around I might as well try an upgrade.

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I used to run solid with rubber trans mount on my daily and didn't mind it although you will feel and hear a lot of vibrations.I currently run poly mounts with rubber trans mount and the motor is as close to solid as you can get with little to no vibration.

Although if my poly mounts fail I will be going back to solids, there cheaper and will never fail :)

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Back from the dead.

I have decided to order solid motor mounts, if CJ Pony parts has them in stock, but have read online different thoughts about this.

Since I will run solid motor mounts, do I run a poly tranny mount or do I also run a solid tranny mount?

Please help! LOL.

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Im no expert on this, but i feel like if there were solid mounts up front, the vibrations transferred to the trans would be kinda harsh and might destroy a poly mount quicker than one would think? Just tossing it out there!

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Im no expert on this, but i feel like if there were solid mounts up front, the vibrations transferred to the trans would be kinda harsh and might destroy a poly mount quicker than one would think? Just tossing it out there!

I'm under the same understanding. I believe this same justification is why you don't want to run poly motor mounts with a rubber trans mount because the vibrations will be more extreme through the rubber mount and prematurely wear them. Though I'm not positive if this follows the same pattern for solid mounts.

Posted via Topify using Android

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Talked to a guy locally and he said he ran the solid motor and solid tranny mounts and it ended up trashing his bell housing.

From what I read on other sites, you can run a solid front, but have to run a rubber or poly trans mount, so that there is a little give.

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I like a rough ride. LOL.

I have used both stock rubber mounts and solid mounts, in a different car, and I seemed to get a slightly better 1/4 mile ET using the solid mounts.

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I've had excellent luck with the 'clamshell' style stock convertible mounts and left the stock transmission mount alone. that trans mount is mostly to hold up the trans, not to prevent any twisting. I've also used urethane all around (motor and trans) and that wasn't so bad - but that was on my foxbody.

I've heard of a case where solid and rubber were mixed (one for trans and one for motor) but I cant remember if its solid motor / rubber trans or solid trans / stock or urethane for the motor, but one of them lead to cracked / broken tailshafts in the trans.

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I like a rough ride. LOL.

Bah dum tsh! :drum: ..well done sir! happy-i-see-what-you-did-there-_clean_-l_reasonably_small.png

- - - Updated - - -

I've had excellent luck with the 'clamshell' style stock convertible mounts and left the stock transmission mount alone. that trans mount is mostly to hold up the trans, not to prevent any twisting. I've also used urethane all around (motor and trans) and that wasn't so bad - but that was on my foxbody.

I've heard of a case where solid and rubber were mixed (one for trans and one for motor) but I cant remember if its solid motor / rubber trans or solid trans / stock or urethane for the motor, but one of them lead to cracked / broken tailshafts in the trans.

I have heard the same, don't mix solid and rubber mounts. If you go for solids then go all the way around.

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Do solid mounts.. Because race car. I've heard people do solid motor and poly tranny to reduce vibrations. I however don't believe poly will reduce it at all. And for 50 bucks solid motor and tranny mounts give you more money for other neat parts

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I've had excellent luck with the 'clamshell' style stock convertible mounts and left the stock transmission mount alone. that trans mount is mostly to hold up the trans, not to prevent any twisting. I've also used urethane all around (motor and trans) and that wasn't so bad - but that was on my foxbody.

I've heard of a case where solid and rubber were mixed (one for trans and one for motor) but I cant remember if its solid motor / rubber trans or solid trans / stock or urethane for the motor, but one of them lead to cracked / broken tailshafts in the trans.

That's from using solid on both. The chassis flexs too much and will busy the tail housing if using solid on both. Its best to leave the trans stock

Sent from my MILESTONE3 using Tapatalk 2

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Mmm. I kind of doubt it. I've been running with a broken motor mount for a couple months and it hasn't caused any vibrations. Granted, the trans mount is still rubber. It does rock/bounce around on decel.

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Mmm. I kind of doubt it. I've been running with a broken motor mount for a couple months and it hasn't caused any vibrations. Granted, the trans mount is still rubber. It does rock/bounce around on decel.

Consider yourself lucky. I drove around for about a week or two, after noticing I had a busted motor mount, and I believe it is what caused the case for my T-5 to break.

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Consider yourself lucky. I drove around for about a week or two, after noticing I had a busted motor mount, and I believe it is what caused the case for my T-5 to break.

Probably what saved me is that the side that broke only make it jump on deceleration(only at very low speeds). If the other side had broken it would have jumped on acceleration(I think that's how it works). Not to mention I have a stock engine, so no power.

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My stock motor mounts were super blown out. This caused violent shaking throughout the car over 2000rpms. Whole Car shook like I was driving a vibrator.

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