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arayray

IRS Swap Info Needed

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I am looking to pick up a 01 Cobra IRS, I need to know what I need to do to use my stock 96 Cobra Driveshaft and how I need to modify my brakelines to convert to IRS brakelines. Thanks for the info!

The IRS comes with everything to swap over, ABS sensor, mounting hardware, used shocks & springs etc.

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What is involved with swapping pinion flanges? We put a new crush sleeve in my current rearend and I don't believe it was right (has a rubbing noise when coming to a stop). I am pretty sure it involves us putting that in and I don't want to mess up the IRS.

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Regarding making new brake lines, cut the factory brake line at the end of the driveshaft tunnel, then add a tee fitting like mentioned above. The lines will also need to be double flared. Get a pair of 99-04 cobra flex lines which will come with the brackets, then attach the brackets to the frame rail with self tapping screws and run the hard lines to them. You'll also need to mount the rear subframe support brackets by either welding them in or drilling through the frame rail and trunk, then use long bolts and steel plates to prevent pulling the trunk floor sheet metal down. I personally chose the latter option because I didn't want to weld near the tank and fuel lines. Look in my build thread on the first page, there are a few photos of the swap but not many because I had a shitty camera when I did the swap.

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do the bushings.  i havnt done the swap, but everything i ever read, people swear by FTBR ones.  

 

 

Putting an IRS in without doing bushings just doesn't make any sense, because you'll be pulling it back out to do them anyway lol.

+1 on doing the FTBR bushings and everything else that you can while it's out.

I've had my '03 IRS waiting to go in for about 5 years now.  I still haven't gotten the bushings yet or it would have been in by now.

 

 Oh and don't forget the exhaust.  if you're still running over the axle exhaust that will need to be changed.

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The 01 uses the same pinion flange as the SRA. The IRS didn't get the bigger flange until 03.

The IRS driveshaft is an inch shorter than the SRA. But.....I was able to use a foxbody aluminum drive shaft when I had the 3650. It was a little tight, but it worked.

I read about swapping u joints, will this allow me to use my driveshaft without swapping pinion flanges?

Swapping the u-joint is usually for guys swapping to a T-56 and using the 03/04 drive shaft. There's a joint that allows the larger drive shaft with the smaller pinion flange. That's what I have on mine because I'm running an 03 shaft.

If you want further proof about the flange I gave the aluminum shaft to 91lx on this forum and he put it in his fox body.

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Swapping the u-joint is usually for guys swapping to a T-56 and using the 03/04 drive shaft. There's a joint that allows the larger drive shaft with the smaller pinion flange. That's what I have on mine because I'm running an 03 shaft.

If you want further proof about the flange I gave the aluminum shaft to 91lx on this forum and he put it in his fox body.

 

Okay, I wasn't sure if that was for the earlier IRS or not. I am trying to get around swapping pinion flanges because I don't want to mess with the crush sleeve and everything. 

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I don't have any pictures of the lines, sorry. As far as the T, you'll just need a nut for the car's line you cut, the tee, then two more nuts for coming out of the tee, then finally two more nuts that are the same thread as the flex lines. I just took the flex lines with me to NAPA and they got me the ones I needed. As far as flaring, a double flare tool is needed. My buddy is a technician and has a hydraulic double flare tool so he brought it over and flared them for me.

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I honestly can't remember the size of the fittings, we're talking like 3 years ago now. That hard line isn't long enough, and the hard lines will need to be bent to follow the shape of the bottom of the car, staying tucked up tightly against the floor and frame rail because there isn't a whole lot of room once the IRS is up in place. The hard lines will need to be custom bent and flared. The "nuts" just slide over the hard line before you flare the ends.

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I have some of the coil of hard line left over from the swap, you're welcome to it if you want it...it might be enough to have you covered. It's the blended metal stuff from Napa. Stainless is hard to flare, and requires hydraulic flare tools, and regular metal shit rusts. The blended stuff Napa sells is the middle ground that is corrosion resistant, but still bends and flares easily.

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I have some of the coil of hard line left over from the swap, you're welcome to it if you want it...it might be enough to have you covered. It's the blended metal stuff from Napa. Stainless is hard to flare, and requires hydraulic flare tools, and regular metal shit rusts. The blended stuff Napa sells is the middle ground that is corrosion resistant, but still bends and flares easily.

 

Where did you get the fittings from? Napa sells an assembled bubble flared hard line but its not listing the fittings.

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Where did you get the fittings from? Napa sells an assembled bubble flared hard line but its not listing the fittings.

 

The hard line is just a coil/roll of bulk line.

 

For the fittings, I just brought my flex lines and Tee fitting with me and said I needed fittings to fit them, they have them in stock. You're gonna be hard pressed to find a pre-assembled line that will be exactly the right length to do what you need.

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Where did you get the fittings from? Napa sells an assembled bubble flared hard line but its not listing the fittings.

Just go in there, they should have all the fittings you need as well as what @95riosnake said.  They will have coils of brake line, or shorter lenghts.   Ive bought longer length straight pieces that have all the fittings on it, cut it to length after getting it to fit right, then re-flaring the end.    If you're in doubt of what size you need, bring in some of the old lines and fittings and match em up!

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Just go in there, they should have all the fittings you need as well as what @95riosnake said.  They will have coils of brake line, or shorter lenghts.   Ive bought longer length straight pieces that have all the fittings on it, cut it to length after getting it to fit right, then re-flaring the end.    If you're in doubt of what size you need, bring in some of the old lines and fittings and match em up!

 

What tool did you use to flare the brake line, are you able to flare the brake line from the front of the car with it on the car?

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you can use something like this

http://www.harborfreight.com/double-tube-flaring-tool-kit-66534.html

image_7860.jpg

 

and i guess im confused as to what your asking?   The line can be flared basically anywhere...  As long as you have enough room to get this tool around the end of the brake line, you can flare it. just make sure your fittings are on the line before you flare it, otherwise youll have to cut the flare off and do it again hah

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i think most autozones and such let you rent the flare tools.  i would recommend trying it out on some scrap pieces to get the hang of it first before doing the actual lines on the car.  like dan said, it's not easiest thing in the world but it's not impossible either.  just takes some practice to get good fittings.  and don't forget to put the fitting on the line first!!!

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Someone on SVTP said he had just bent the stop line up instead of cutting it off and connected it to the 'T'. I am going to try it this way and if that doesn't work find an alternate way. Thanks for the help guys, sorry I am clueless about brake lines. 

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