How-to: AN power steering lines on 96-98 hydroboost

[Tabres]

For some time there has been this diagram floating around online for converting later model cars to have AN power steering lines.  The unfortunate thing is, the fittings at the booster are not the same across all model years like some people have been inaccurately claiming.  However, I have identified the correct fittings needed for the 96-98 hydroboost and that is what will be covered in this how-to (It is my understanding that the hydroboost from 96-98 are the same.  I successfully used this setup on my 96).

 

 

 

Again, if completing this on a 96-98 car, do NOT use the fittings listed in the photo above.  I've include the photo to use as a reference for where position 1 is, position 2 is, etc..  I'll list the information for each point in the same fashion, the conversion fittings used and the AN fitting.

 

 

Position 1 (high pressure): In the booster I used Aeroquip P/N FBM2965.  Cost: $9.97  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm2965

The AN fitting:  Russell Performance P/N 620421.  Cost: $15.97.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-620421

 

Position 2 (high pressure): In the booster I used Aeroquip P/N FBM2964.  Cost: $7.97  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm2964

The AN fitting:  Russell Performance P/N 620421.  Cost: $15.97.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-620421

 

Position 3 (low pressure): In the booster I used Hydratech P/N HBS9101.  Cost: $23.95  http://www.hydratechbraking.com/hose_fittings.html

The AN fitting:  Russell Performance P/N 610165.  Cost $13.99.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-610165

 

Position 4 & 5 (rack fittings): In the rack I used Maximum Motorsports P/N ST-73.  Cost: $38.97  http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM-Power-Steering-Fitting-Kit-Mustang-steering-rack-to-AN-hose-1979-2004-P1001.aspx

The AN fitting in position 4 (low pressure): Russell Performance P/N 610090.  Cost: $15.97.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-610090

The AN fitting in position 5 (high pressure): Russell Performance P/N 620404.  Cost: $12.97.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-620401/overview/

 

Position 6: Reuse the stock 3/8" inner diameter rubber hose here.  It is contoured correctly and works great.  No reason to replace it.

 

Position 7 (high pressure): In the pump I used Russell Performance P/N 670530.  Cost: $4.97.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-670530

The AN fitting:  Russell Performance P/N 620421.  Cost: $15.97.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-620421

 

Tee-fitting (low pressure):  I used Summit Racing P/N SUM-220836B.  Cost: $11.97.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220636b/overview/

Position 8, 9 & 10 (low pressure):  The AN fitting: Summit Racing P/N SUM-220690B.  Cost: $4.97.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220690b/overview/

 

High pressure hose:  Russell Performance P/N 632630.  Cost: $69.97.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-632630/overview/

Low pressure hose:  Russell Performance P/N 632060.  Cost: $32.97.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-632060/overview/

 

 

 

If you've been adding up costs as I've listed them, you'll be out of pocket $306.49 plus tax and shipping if you use the exact components I did.

 

 

A few points to touch on:

 

1. You'll notice I make no mention of the very basic power steering cooler that exists on the 96-98 cars.  That is because I chose to delete it on my car.  If you were to do any HPDE or open track events, or even heavy autocross I would suggest you upgrade the power steering cooler anyhow.  For normal street use and drag strip use, deleting the power steering cooler will be just fine.  Some of the later model cars don't even come with them from the factory.
    
2. You MUST use PTFE hose and appropriately rated fittings for the high pressure lines.  Regular AN fittings and hoses will explode from the pressures the system operates at.  The Russell hose and fittings I used is specifically designed for power steering systems.  If you've never assembled PTFE hoses and fittings before, it's simple.  All you need is basic hands tools, and a bench vice is nice to have.  Here is a good, simple YouTube video showing the process:
   
    
   
    
3. I ran my lines through the fender.  As such, this increased the length of the hose I needed and dictated the angle of the fittings I needed.  I'd encourage you to map out how you want to route your system before hand as it may change how much hose or what angle of fittings you will need.  Also note, if you run the lines through the fender as I did, you will wind up having to do some slight trimming on the fender liner to get it back in place.
    
4. To seal the fittings in the booster and the pump on the high pressure lines I chose to use a hydraulic sealant made by Permatex on the threads (Loctite also makes a similar product, either is fine).  I also went to my local auto parts store and picked up some aluminum drain plug washers and installed those against the hex on the fittings to seal against the booster and pump.  With these good and tight, I am experiencing no leaks.  The rack fittings from Maximum Motorsports come with their own teflon o-rings and hydraulic sealant that do the job well.
    
5. The low pressure hose from the tee-fitting to the reservoir is just pushed onto the nipple on the reservoir.  It will take some effort to get it on there.  While it probably wasn't needed I used a small hose clamp around the hose to retain it on the reservoir.  It is a good, low-cost solution and is not visible unless you're looking up at the reservoir from underneath the car.
    
6. At position 3 there is the opportunity to use a standard hose barb fitting made by Hydratech (P/N HBS9100) .  It would save you a little money (maybe around $15) but I thought it would look out of place and unfinished against the rest of the AN fittings so I chose not to go that route.

 

Below are a few photos of my setup after I got it completed.  There is still a little tidying up to do here but it gives the general effect.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Josh@RideTech]

[Blackmage]

this makes me warm and fuzzy inside.  can you get a better pic of the engine bay to see how much it cleans up that side of the bay?

[Tabres]

There is a lot more that has changed in this before and after but here you go.

 

Before:

 

 

 

After:

 

 

[Blackmage]

There is a lot more that has changed in this before and after but here you go.

 

Before:

 

 

 

After:

 

thanks! you can still see it cleans up that side a ton.  nice work man

[Venmous28]

Not too bad a price, thought it might be closer to $500 with the high pressure.

[RedTwilight]

Great write up! Now I need to do some research on the power steering cooler you speak of.

[Schiffy]

C heads with the Intake Adapter to run the B upper, yes?

 

There is a lot more that has changed in this before and after but here you go.

 

Before:

 

 

 

[ttocs]

I found a local place that said if I brought my car when it was done to them that they can make all the lines to hide everything.  I am hoping it comes out that nice and for a fair price like you go.  Very nice

[Tabres]

C heads with the Intake Adapter to run the B upper, yes?

 

Yep.

[RedTwilight]

STATION!!!

 

Most Excellent write-up my friend! 

[ttocs]

I don't supposed anyone knows if these fittings are the same for a 94 gt?  Or where to get the thread/pitch of the fittings needed for a 94?  I am to the point I am connecting my lines now.

[95opal]

2 hours ago, ttocs said:

I don't supposed anyone knows if these fittings are the same for a 94 gt?  Or where to get the thread/pitch of the fittings needed for a 94?  I am to the point I am connecting my lines now.

Lines from the master should be hardline. Also your bear master should have come with the correct adapters and fittings to plumb it. < the only part of the braking system that is ok to use braided line would be from the caliper to the body hardline and from the rear body line to the t connector on the rear hard lines.

[White95]

Pictures fixed