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98 GT buildup

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Hi all, new here and have a thread over in the intro forum. This 98 is not really a "project car" but its my project and will be getting slowly built up over the next few years.

Car when I got it:




Didn't like the interior which was kind of worn anyway so out it came:


In went new aftermarket carpet, a complete black interior out of a 95 V6 and I re-upholstered the seats myself with TMI foam/vinyl (yes vinyl) that I got from LMR.






All the wrinkles seen in these pics are gone now, they worked themselves out after about a week and just leaving the car out in the sun for a few hours to get that vinyl blazing hot (do NOT sit on vinyl seats with bare skin in the summer EVER!) really helped speed it up.



Also did some MAC white faces:


Next step is to get the t45 redone by t45 source so the car is going to go up on jackstands for a month or two in the garage and I'll get to have the fun time of removing the transmission from under the car... yay... After THAT... probably going to go through the suspension and start building up the Teksid I got out of a 98 Cobra that is on a stand in my garage right now. Have the forged crank from said Cobra as well so .010 or .020 over and a set of forged rods/pistons later I'll have a nice shortblock waiting for some heads/cams and a Tork Tech.

Edited by scottydsntknow
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Tork Tech and a Posi ported blower to start. Will probably get used to it and then upgrade to a Whipple later on but that is a few years off... Was thinking turbo but not if I'm staying 5 speed. If I was going auto I would be doing the on3 kit. I went back and forth on this a few times actually lol.

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Car has sat in the garage under a cover, on a tender with stabil in the tank. Weather has been terrible so no driving it and I do NOT like working on anything big in the cold. Probably should get a propane heater for next winter... I'm not doing the 5 spd rebuild, currently in my garage there is a VERY low mile 4r75w sitting on a pallet and a PI stallion 3500rpm lockup converter. Its warming up now so I am getting ready to do this thing. 4r75w swap, Silverfox full manual reverse valve body so I don't have to eff with anything computer wise and still retain full control. Changed my mind when I got a ride in a stalled auto vette making probably 380-400whp and WOW is all I can say, the difference of coming off the line in a stalled auto vs a stick shift is unreal. Basically hang on to your bologna and there is no letup in power until the foot comes off the gas.

Then... I'm up in the air between a tork tech or an On3 kit (with upgraded v bands and gaskets). Before when I was going to leave the car 5 spd there was no question but now that I'm getting an auto in there I'm leaning towards turbo. Autos and turbos are like peas and carrots. Either way I'll do the fuel system this fall and then decide over next winter what is going on and install it this time next year. That gives me this spring/summer/fall to get the automatic in/sorted, get used to driving it and enjoy it. Can't wait.

Besides that... I'll

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SO hows the auto swap coming along?!

Haha, its not. I got a short notice deployment that was going to happen in June and decided to not do it. Then someone else volunteered for it but I'm still the backup for it and one in August and slated to go in November (3 months to Germany oh no! lol). Also just decided to go back to my original plan of setting the car up for road racing/street driving with a Tork Tech and a Posi port. Motor only has 80k on it and I'll put under 2k miles on it this year for sure so I see no reason to not just put the blower on with a supporting fuel system, then look for a good IRS with FTBR kit to swap in and a MM front K member/coilover kit. Actually just upgraded my shifter with a handle I can actually reach.


Clean car, post up somemore progress!

Ha, I have a 4 yr old, my wife and I show dogs and the show season is kicking into gear right now and taking up a lot of time, I also fly RC airplanes on the side and that takes up time too and I am usually gone 10 days a month as aircrew in the USAF. Car has been on the back burner lately lol. Still need to do the stupid brakes, have new Raybestos rotors and posi quiet Centric ceramic pads in the garage, just gotta find time to do them. Will post up some progress pics when I do some more updating to it though.

did you say you got a forhed crank from a 98 cobra....?

Yep, 8 bolt forged crank from a 98 along with the Teksid it came in. Its basically an ornament in my garage on a stand for the time being. I'm going to build the rest of the car up around the stock block and a Eaton tuned to 400/400 and then once that is all done I'll build the Teksid. Too many cars running around with 450+whp motors and stock suspension/trans...like 90% of the Terminators you see. Keeping the car a stick shift, I don't see the need to go over what a Posi Eaton can handle which is about 550whp and with the combo I plan for it I should be an easy 11 second 1/4 car lazily shifting but I'm more concerned with making it go around the corners. Seems like everyone has quick straight line 1/4 cars and there is nothing wrong with that but you don't often see a Stang setup to pull a 1G turn. That is the goal.

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I wash it, wax it and drive it. Every other Mustang I've owned I've fixed until it was broken, this one I just want to enjoy. Probably will not do anything big until next spring. Might start hunting for an IRS over the winter and a Magnaflow IRS catback to polish up like a mirror.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

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I don't know how I missed this thread but the car looks great! That's a pretty rare color, I've only seen one that color in person. Props for the interior color change, that's a ton of work for sure. I hope I never have to take another dash out of a car lol. It's gonna look so sick once it has an IRS with blingin polished pipes out back! :thumb:

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Yeah lol I should get on this forum more. I also keep kicking around what I want to do with the car. Every time I think I've got it down to what I want I start to think of a different setup. Been kicking around setting the car up for drag again since it seems like every time I take it out its just banging gears light to light and going to a road race track is kind of... involved... lol. The other day it was just light to light down the main road around here and I was kind of wishing I had a stalled auto drag setup... If I set it up for drag its getting that auto swap I was considering a few months ago, RMVB, UPR front coilover setup, TA/PHB setup out back with some ET streets and then I'll go from there.

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Well its 2014 now and I need to either shit or get off the pot with this car.  Have a coolant leak under the intake I'm almost positive is the tube in the valley.  I'll pull the intake off and gander at it and get that fixed.  Then I need to find a good IRS, install that and get this transmission sorted out after that.  Its driveable as long as I don't try to powershift second but dammit I want to powershift second lol.  


Regardless this car is going to become a DD after the weather warms up a little and no more ice/salt on the roads.  Sick of driving a beater into work, this is not a collector car and has 116k on it, I think it'll be ok if it gets rained on lol.  


And for a pic of SOMETHING I've done with it lately, I wound up hating that UPR shift lever and the angle it put the arm at and started looking at other options.  Turns out Steeda makes a plate that moves the shift lever back a good 1.5" from where it is.  This doesn't sound like much but it ALSO changes the angle of the lever slightly angling back more so that helps even more.  Problem is its for a Hurst/TKO with the 3/8" bolts.  Well, nothing some 3/8" nylon bushings can't fix.  
























I've since moved it to the top holes in the shifter for a slightly longer throw but a little easier to reach and faster to grab from the wheel.  Also lets me put the boot surround back on.  I like my bezel...  

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Yeah it seems the going rate for them is $1k for a termi one and less for a 28 spline unit.  Kind of want to find a Termi one, keep the 3.55s and roll with that.  Install looks pretty simple honestly, just a few extra holes to drill for the pre 99 body.  

Trans is something I am debating.  I can pick up a good 3650 core for $150 locally and get Hanlon to rebuild it and avoid shipping but I'm not exactly sure I want to go that route yet.  The other option I am kicking around is an A5.  Or at least a fresh T-5 till I do the A5 gearset when I need it.  Yeah yeah T-5 sucks etc... etc...  Honestly I have NEVER had a transmission that ever shifted as well for me as the T-5s in my 91 and 95.  Those cars were just a JOY to bang gears in.  The TKO I put in my 95 gave me fits and this t-45 in the blue car makes me want to light it on fire sometimes lol.  I can mount a 94/95 T-5 to a QT bell with the McCleod spacer and it'll go right in and I'll get the scattershield to boot.  I have time to think about it.  QT bell and the spacer are PRICEY but I'll want to buy a scattershield sooner or later...

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Yea I hear ya I'm a picky bastard myself and that's why I went with the Gforce guts in my t5 I hated my tko ... If I didn't know the next idiot in line would think it's awesome I would have thrown it in the river ..... Fuckin thing shifted like a bus ....

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Yeah that TKO was a pain in the nuts, if I had known how bad it was I never would have bought it.  Got rid of the perfectly good T-5 in my 95 for it because seriously why would I keep the T-5 when I have this "awesome" trans now?  




Although from what I have researched I will be a rarity if not unique around here if I have a T-5/A5 behind a modular.  Not sure why, the QT bell allows you to mount one and the A5 is the lightest manual trans available not to mention its the best shifting AND is rated to around 600ft lbs conservatively.  AND you get a .59 overdrive... I mean I'm not sure what is not to like.  There is even a stronger case available for those who don't trust the stock one although Astro claims the stock case is not a problem.  

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Time to get this shit started.  First step is a trans that does not suck.  


Freshly rebuilt 3650 with all TSBs done.  $1075 shipped to my door with no core charge ftw.  




Next up obviously is new shifter and ER speedcal.  Then either going to swap to IRS with a guy locally who wants a SRA and install FTBR kit or just go through my SRA with some 31 spline axles, termi diff and new bearings.  After that I would LIKE to Tork Tech it but I'll see how funds go.  If I do put a Tork Tech in my 3.08 gears out of my 95 Cobra are going in whatever rear is in the 98 in a few months.  

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Few updates, nothing really in the power dept but that will come eventually.  


New wheels/tires




I have since added some gunmetal caps but I don't have any real good pics of those yet.  


Also, FINALLY got the T-45 out and installed the brand new 3650 that's been sitting in my garage for 3 months.  That was fun and ppl who don't know wtf they are talking about really need to stop giving out recycled info on forums.  I got told by no less than 3 ppl on how to do the crossmember and they were all wrong.  Turns out none of them had actually done it and had "only heard that was how to do it" from someone else.  Anyway, 79-95 style trans mount and a swap crossmember is required along with the speedcal to get the VSS to OSS and all is right in the world now.  I am currently breaking it in and when it hits 1000 miles I will do a drain/fill, drop the shifter lever down to the two bottom holes and have fun with it.  Yes I know to fill with 3.2 quarts per the TSB.  I'm using Syncrhomesh so it shifts like butter.  Or as like butter as a 3650 can.  


Yay T-45 on the way out.



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Thanks man.  I also forgot about the DEPO projectors with the 4300k HIDs and the Nokya Hypers in the fogs.  






The 4300s have a pretty good cutoff in those housings and its a high end OEM style kit with laser aligned quartz glass bulbs.  It does rainbow down at the ends in these projectors which is not correct but its way better than if they were in stock housings and I'm not blinding anyone.  Hi-beams are Philips HIR bulbs which are the brightest halogens period.  Only available in 9005/9006 (9011/9012) sizes and the hi-beams in the DEPOs are 9005s woot.  I may even try out some stock 9006 bulbs and see if the beams are straight like they should be.  If so, I may pull the HIDs completely and replace the lo beams with another HIR bulb.  

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Cheers to you for putting HID's in a projector rather than throwing them in a reflector housing and essentially giving a big middle finger to everyone else on the road. I hate seeing HID's in regular housings, and especially if they're like 8000k (super blue), nothing looks more tacky and cheap that than IMO.

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Those headlights look familiar!  Very nice and agree with Dan 100%. I see it A LOT around me (as I'm sure most do), can't freakin' stand it.  

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I actually got a headache just looking at that pic!

yea they were pretty bad, amazing on backroads with no cars though, especially with all the wildlife up here.  i could drive with just the fogs on and have more light than a lot of cars too. stupid bright, kinda glad I dont have to worry about them anymore tho

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Omg eff that noise...  besides 4300k is brighter than 6500k :)


Here's a really bad pic of them prior to aligning them.  I don't actually have many current pics of the car...




Can see the "rainbow" effect but also how the cutoff is clean at least.  I will say the HIR bulbs are OMFG bright in the high beams at 2300 lumens for the 9011 hi beam and a 3400k color profile.  



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Moar updates.  Have had the transmission out 3 times in the last 3 months.  First time was to swap in the 3650 which hit a few snags but is a direct swap IF you have a Stiffler's crossmember.  Wish I knew this beforehand...  oh well.  Then there was a rattling from inside the bell and I figured oh great the TOB or pilot or both got boogered up so out she came again.  Low and behold the clutch I was told was 5k miles old had HORRIBLE hotspots on the PP and the flywheel.  The friction disc actually looked good but it seems the PO never resurfaced the stock flywheel ever.  Since I had no new clutch on hand... back in it went as I was not going to leave it sitting at the shop.  3rd time was the charm.  11" Exedy Mach 400, 11" Coyote flywheel, FRPP Pilot, the Exedy TOB and all seems well.  Clutch is really grippy, trans shifts really well, TOB/Pilot are silent and I got the .62 overdrive as well so I can do 80mph at 2350 RPM with 3.73s.  















Also picked up a Craig's no-drill front plate bracket after some gung-ho E-3 at the gate gave me a fix-it ticket for no front plate.  My 1st Sergeant was cool with me driving with the plate on the dash until the bracket came in and also agreed it would be a crime to drill into my bumper.  





Next up is maybe swap the Tri-Ax for a MGW.  Don't get me wrong, the Tri-Ax shifts well and I'd have to be semi or full on retard to miss 3rd with it.  I just like the smoothness and silence of the MGW and you have to be stupid to miss 3rd with it as well.


Oh, one last thing, for those with 3650 transmissions running ATF or RP/M1/some other crazy fluid...  do yourselves a favor and drain your transmission and fill with 3.2 quarts of Pennzoil Synchromesh.  The 3650 is a little notchy at lower RPM but it feels just like a T-5 when I get on it.  No joke.  It literally falls into gear at 6k and I can finally bark 2nd for the first time since I've owned the car.  The old T-45 would grind quick shifting past 5k and that old clutch would slip anyway.  



edit: Before anyone asks, speedometer is dead nuts accurate with the Dallas Extended Range Speedcal.  I was worried about converting from VSS to OSS but it literally took 5 minutes with the speedcal and a calculator. 

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