kbscobravert Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 I didn't want to much up the Teal Whale build thread so I thought I would dump my pics here. This is my answer to the jacked up A/C line routing in the 94/95 cars. I bought a bunch of springloc hose ends, a bunch of hose and then the GM compression line fittings. Once you start in on it, all this stuff is simple universal fittings and line. The hardest part was the line filter. All my lines after I mocked them and ready to have them crimped. The crimp tool is a hydraulic hand held tool with different dies. I just wished I had one at my disposal instead of having to take them to a hose shop. All though, they did have to braze some fittings for me at the same time http://www.airproair.com/pdf/illustrated/Fittings-new.pdf 90* fittings coming out of the evaporator and go to the fenderwell opening Moved receiver/dryer into the fenderwell New lines into the back of the compressor. Photo taken during mockup. Notice the sharpie witness marks on the crimp barrel and the hose. Once you crimp that barrel down on the barb, you are stuck with the alignment. Mark them both. Pressure switch spliced in. Yes, I cheated, I bought some used lines off of ebay or some such....cheap and gave me parts to use. You can see one of the pressure fittings and where the lines comes from the condenser back into the fenderwellLiquid line with orfice tube running to condenser. The block cost me $34.The line attached is just a spare piece I scavenged to use to match the threads. It will be replaced with a 45* hose end crimped Modifications to the compressor block. Cut down one tube stem and open up the port for the alignment tube in the bolt hole. Driver side and compressorOther angles Finished product Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeahloh95 Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 very cool i would like to do something similar to just reroute my ac lines would be a big improvement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-Oh Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 THANK YOU!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Holy cow! You win the internet! This is awesomeeeeeeSent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Psychorugby Posted May 6, 2014 Moderators Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Dammit, one more thing for me to figure out how to tuck! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Gosh I want to be able to drive my car this year to many thing I want to do lol.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 I think you might be the mustang plumbing/wiring guru @kbscobravert! I'm gonna move this to the "How To Articles" section so it's easy to find in the future, hope you don't mind. Looks 10000x better than the crap they gave us from the factory for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tabres Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Whats the rough cost of the components and work involved to create the lines? Really neat project. I'd love to do something like this to get some A/C back in my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Psychorugby Posted May 6, 2014 Moderators Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Thankfully, I have a completely empty engine bay and blank slate. This could look really cool sheathed in braided stainless to match the rest of my hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 What did you do for a condenser?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbscobravert Posted May 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 THANK YOU!!! Sure. Holy cow! You win the internet! This is awesomeeeeeeSent from my XT1080 using TapatalkWell, I didn't want to side track your thread. Dammit, one more thing for me to figure out how to tuck! Thanks!That is how I felt when I opened the engine bay of a 100% factory Cobra.....ALL OF IT NEEDS TO GO...and put a turbo over there. I think you might be the mustang plumbing/wiring guru @kbscobravert! I'm gonna move this to the "How To Articles" section so it's easy to find in the future, hope you don't mind. Looks 10000x better than the crap they gave us from the factory for sure.I don't mind at all. And thanks for the compliment. I am a savant of sorts that is for sure. Is it mustang plumbing/wiring? Who knows. You should see how I built the entire EFI harness from the ECU through the firewall to the components from SCRATCH and even included military aircraft style barrel connecters at the firewall to pass it all through. Whats the rough cost of the components and work involved to create the lines? Really neat project. I'd love to do something like this to get some A/C back in my car.The A/C was kind of a requirement for me if I wanted to keep the wife happy. Now that it is apart, she just wants it to run again...a/c or not. My cost of this was kind of skewed. I went with a brand new compressor, brand new receiver/dryer, and bought way too many fittings (the store was an hour plus drive and didn't want to have to go back because I needed a different angle hose end) and new GM condenser. I would say all in, I am in it for around $450-600. Thankfully, I have a completely empty engine bay and blank slate. This could look really cool sheathed in braided stainless to match the rest of my hoses.I used a black expandable nylon and the heat sleeve. What did you do for a condenser?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Well, that is a whole-nother story. I wanted to use a GM condenser because their fin design is so much better than what Ford was putting out. That meant I needed to adapt my hose ends to it. I made a few junk yard trips, gathered up a few line ends (just cut them off) and then.....give me a few minutes to find that write up and bring it over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbscobravert Posted May 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Link to the A/C blockhttp://www.acsource.com/compressorhoseblocks.aspxhttp://www.acsource.com/hoseblockverticaloring.aspx The new compressor set me back $200 and the condenser was $120 and the receiver dryer was $25. I moved the switch near the condensor by cutting out the section of steel tube which has the threaded opening and welding two steel barb fittings then splicing it into the rubber hose. I used a unused hose end to the compressor with a section of hose on it to fill the compressor (acted as a funnel). Compressor got about 5oz and the accumulator got a little over 3oz. I cranked it at least 20 times. All the fittings are tight and the lines are protected from abrasion and secured. Due to my condenser being from a '99 Camaro, the factory Ford spring lock stuff would not work there. I had to make my own by combining Ford and GM stuff from salvage yard and the parts house. Even then I had to drill out, cut and get creative to find a solution from hose to component.Take a look at how good the welded ends for the condenser came out. It took a little thought but I am confident I could have used any style of condenser/accumulator/etc and made it all work just the same.Welded end beforeafterWelded end from 3 piecesbeforeafter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 I don't mind at all. And thanks for the compliment. I am a savant of sorts that is for sure. Is it mustang plumbing/wiring? Who knows. You should see how I built the entire EFI harness from the ECU through the firewall to the components from SCRATCH and even included military aircraft style barrel connecters at the firewall to pass it all through. Oh I have seen, lol. I've read your entire build thread over on Corral, very jealous of the rewiring you've done, and how sanitary and organized everything is. The next motor I build will be a dart block with a blimp load of boost thrown at it, and it will be running a crank trigger/coil packs setup. I'm sure I'll be revisiting a lot of your build when the time comes. Really glad you joined up here, you're a great asset to have for this stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tabres Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Those costs aren't that bad at all. I'm in the same boat as far as probably having to try to retro-fit some kind of A/C to keep my fiance happy. Just not a lot of room with the bigger radiator and the turbo right now. Though I guess I shouldn't complain given how you've found a way to stuff as much as you have into your engine bay Will definitely keep this route in the back of my head when the time comes. Thanks for the info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbscobravert Posted May 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Those costs aren't that bad at all. I'm in the same boat as far as probably having to try to retro-fit some kind of A/C to keep my fiance happy. Just not a lot of room with the bigger radiator and the turbo right now. Though I guess I shouldn't complain given how you've found a way to stuff as much as you have into your engine bay Will definitely keep this route in the back of my head when the time comes. Thanks for the info! And that is the old engine bay before I got real stupid and wanted an air to water intercooler where the entire radiator is. Here is the layout now. The real challenge is to get a condenser UNDER this radiator! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 holy mess in the wheel well lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbscobravert Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 holy mess in the wheel well lolHahaha, be nice. I went through painstaking efforts to HIDE the harnesses and with the amount of electronics, gauges, etc it wasn't easy. Day of the dyno, luckily I had the fenders off, I had to run new power wire to the MAP sensor. Then had to add in the remote starter pump button. Then had to move the vacuum pump to the rear from the front. Etc. Etc. Trust me, it got cleaned up again when i was doing the A/C. Now it is ALL removed so I can wire in the Holley EFI and revamp my EFI methods. Never ending. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Hahaha, be nice. I went through painstaking efforts to HIDE the harnesses and with the amount of electronics, gauges, etc it wasn't easy. Day of the dyno, luckily I had the fenders off, I had to run new power wire to the MAP sensor. Then had to add in the remote starter pump button. Then had to move the vacuum pump to the rear from the front. Etc. Etc. Trust me, it got cleaned up again when i was doing the A/C. Now it is ALL removed so I can wire in the Holley EFI and revamp my EFI methods. Never ending.Haha i'm sure it is all cleaned, up. ive been in those stages of doing stuff, where things just look like a complete mess, but eventually get back to em I tried to hide wires, and got sick of doing it after i moved just a few wires around, i give ya props on your engine bay, 1000x cleaner than mine will ever be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 damn wish I understood this crap to do it now while my fenders are off.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 any chance you could help sort those ends out with me to help me do this? I have my own car and a parts car I can source parts from to cut/hack what I need/where I need it and have a crimper I am fairly sure I can get different teeth for to do different end types... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbscobravert Posted May 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 any chance you could help sort those ends out with me to help me do this? I have my own car and a parts car I can source parts from to cut/hack what I need/where I need it and have a crimper I am fairly sure I can get different teeth for to do different end types...What condenser do you want to use? Factory Ford Mustang (any year)? About the only factory Ford I used was the liquid line with the filter in it. It was only $19-22 new from autoparts store. Get a new one to use. I also used a section of line that held the 4-wire switch (high pressure and temp). Then brazed it to the crimp nipples. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 like I said I have access to 94/95 parts on my parts car so it would be great if we could use those parts but I understand this will cost a few bucks to make happen so what ever is the easiest really... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbscobravert Posted May 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 which lines do you want to relocate? are you going to leave the receiver/dryer in the stock location? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 I am going for the cleanest look possible and have the whole front end off. I will also be welding in scottrod panels in the back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ineedav8 Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 Kind of reviving a really dead thread here but any reason why this wouldnt work on a 96 and up?Sent from the future Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
