Thinking of Buying an ON3 Performance Turbo Kit for your SN95? LOOK HERE FIRST!

[slow90coupe]

Ok, since I now have my 1997 Mustang GT finished, running, and driving, I thought I would take the time to write a detailed write-up of everything I ran into during my install of the ON3 Performance Forward Facing Turbo kit for the 99-04 Mustang GT 2v. This information would have DRASTICALLY helped me during my install, and I would have had my car running weeks ago if I had known what to expect and what I would need to modify to make it all work and fit properly.

1. Before you pull the trigger on the kit, make sure you have your slot-style MAF of choice selected. I chose to run the PMAS HPX meter because it was what my tuner had experience with. Also be sure to get on3 to weld the MAF bung on the discharge pipe that runs to the throttle body. I chose to have mine welded underneath the pipe so you couldn't see it. You will also need the adapter harness that you will splice into the existing MAF harness.

2. Order GOOD V-BAND CLAMPS! Please do NOT attempt to use the cheap Chinese clamps that is supplied in the kit. They will leak, and I even had some of the welds break on mine when I was using them for a mockup. You will need 3-2.5 inch V-bands and one 4 inch if you desire to put one on your downpipe (I used the supplied V-band for this one and it worked fine since no pressure was on the downpipe.) I highly recommend Race Parts Solutions V-bands. Mine are great.

3. You are going to want to buy some Stage 8 locking header bolts, because trust me, you NEVER want to take these headers off again. They are a total bitch and a half, and you will thank me for this later.

4. I would also recommend some Remflex header gaskets, since they are very thick and will compress and ensure no leaks. I used the ones supplied with the kit and am fine so far. But for the added peace of mind, I would use the Remflex's if I did it again.

5. Coil packs (96-98 only). It is recommended to switch to a COP setup to give more room for the turbo. I did this. I picked up a COP conversion harness from Red Monster on SVTperformance, and was very impressed with the quality of this kit. It was $200 and even came with OEM used Ford coils.

6. K-member. You're going to have to run a tubular K-member AND A-arms to make room for the cluster of turbo piping. I used the UPR K-member kit since that's what the ON3 kit was ran around. Buy new rack bolts too, as the factory ones are too long.

7. Oil cooler issues. If you have a 96-98 GT or a 4v car, you're going to have to get rid of the oil cooler and get a 99-04 style oil filter adapter. I tried to get my drivers side header on with mine and failed miserably. I picked mine up for $30 used, you just have to look around and find one.

8. Oil filter relocation. You are NOT going to want to even unbox the oil filter relocation kit sent with the ON3 kit, it is a total POS. My spin-on adapter cracked, my rubber oil lines leaked, and the fittings were junk. DO NOT try to run this piece, you will have problems and once the header is on, it's virtually impossible to remove the spin-on adapter! I picked up a Moroso spin-on piece. Here's the link to that piece, it's VERY nice. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-23686

 

9. Bumpsteer kit. If you're lower than stock, a bumpsteer kit will be needed to get the tie rod ends as far away from the hotside as possible.

Oil lines- I chose to run -8 AN lines and fittings. This is highly recommended as well. You don't want to lose all of your oil, trust me, it almost happened to me when I was using the heater hoses supplied in the ON3 kit. I also chose to mount my oil filter on the bellhousing to reduce the chance of anything happening to it.

NOW you're ready to buy the kit! All of the above will greatly improve your experience with the kit, and I highly recommend ordering all of it before you order your kit, so you're not stuck waiting on one piece for a week like I was.

Ok, now that you've received everything, you're going to have a ton of really nice looking pieces that you think will never fit underneath your car. Believe me, it's a tight fit, but it all fits and nothing touches.



Now it's time to start. I recommend putting the headers on while the K-member is out, to make it less of a pain. It's still going to kick your ass though.

You will have to enlarge the holes in the headers, I had to enlarge half of mine on the drivers side and the 2 rear holes on the passenger side. Now you can put them on. There's one hole on the passenger side that is impossible to get a bolt into, so you're going to have to use the factory stud and nut combo on that one. It will also require the removal of the starter to tighten this bolt down with an open end wrench, moving a very little bit at a time. This one bolt will take about 30 minutes to get tight.

Now, move onto the oil cooler. Take that thing out and throw it in the trash. Put on your new oil filter adapter with the correct gasket.

The drivers side header won't be too bad.

Now move on to the rest of the hotside piping. It will require the use of an exhaust jack or a come-along to get the last V-band clamp on there. Everything else is straight up. You will have to modify the turbo bracket if you have an older style timing cover like I did.

The intercooler and cold side went on without any issues. I did have to modify my passenger foglight bracket a little by cutting part of it off.

After the coldside is done you can put the oil feed/drain on and button everything else up. Vacuum lines are easy, run the BOV to the plenum and wastegate to the coldside piping.

Here's a few pics of my setup. It's very cramped but it all fits.











If you have any more questions, PM me or look at my build thread. Hope this helps!

[95riosnake]

Great post, thanks for taking the time to write this up and save future buyers a lot of head scratching and F-bomb dropping!

[Det_Riot]

wow! didn't realize how much crap you had to stick through. Good job man, way to stick with it through it all!

[64bit_Tuning]

Great post, thanks for taking the time to write this up and save future buyers a lot of head scratching and F-bomb dropping!

 

 

Bare in mind... A good portion of that is not an issue on a 94-95.

 

Specifically the K-member. which doesnt need to be changed.

[copmagnet]

did the drivers side hotside interfere with the power steering hardlines or any of the other lines? i was told most people had to modify brake and power steering lines to make it work, granted this was on a 4v, but that shouldn't have made a difference.

 

 

also, how much room do you have between the turbo and the timing cover/radiator? I was told its close and requires a new radiator or cutting. i like to put an end to he said she said bullshit before making decisions. look forward to your response.

[slow90coupe]

did the drivers side hotside interfere with the power steering hardlines or any of the other lines? i was told most people had to modify brake and power steering lines to make it work, granted this was on a 4v, but that shouldn't have made a difference.

 

 

also, how much room do you have between the turbo and the timing cover/radiator? I was told its close and requires a new radiator or cutting. i like to put an end to he said she said bullshit before making decisions. look forward to your response.

I was able to just slightly bend the lines by hand to get them to clear correctly. There's not much room down there, but nothing touches.

As for turbo clearance, I have about 1/2" between the turbo and water pump pulley. It's very close, but the radiator side has plenty of room. I don't see how people make a 76mm or bigger turbo work with this kit though.

[itsblown93]

Are you happy with this kit so far? Also are you running an open down pipe? If so how loud is it? Thinking about buy this kit for my 04

[copmagnet]

+1, I'd like to see the cold side installed just to get an idea. Also if you could get more photos of how you routed your oil filter kit.

Also are you saying you had to buy a new oil feed/return line because the on3 one was bad? Where does the feed line run from? I know the return just runs back down to the pan..

[slow90coupe]

Are you happy with this kit so far? Also are you running an open down pipe? If so how loud is it? Thinking about buy this kit for my 04

So far so good, I put 800 miles on the car at Mustang Week and the car and turbo did great, not a single problem! I'm running open downpipe. It's really not that loud unless you're in boost. Going down the road with the windows up and radio on you don't even know it's running. It's not as bad as running dumps IMO.

+1, I'd like to see the cold side installed just to get an idea. Also if you could get more photos of how you routed your oil filter kit.

Also are you saying you had to buy a new oil feed/return line because the on3 one was bad? Where does the feed line run from? I know the return just runs back down to the pan..

I'll try to get some more pics next time I mess with the car. Yeah the feed line started melting and collapsing, I'm glad I caught it in time. Feed line runs from the oil filter adapter to the turbo.

[itsblown93]

@slow90coupe do you have an idle clip of it? Do you end up smelling like gas when you get out of the car?

[slow90coupe]

@slow90coupe do you have an idle clip of it? Do you end up smelling like gas when you get out of the car?

Here's the only video I have of it. It kinda sounds like a tractor at idle but not too bad. I don't smell like gas, it's not near as bad as dumps are, that's for sure

 

[blubyu90]

Thanks for the great info! I'm planning on switching from my Vortech S-trim to an On3 kit. I'm tired of belt issues and my longtubes scraping everywhere. That open dp is sounds killer btw!!

[copmagnet]

Sounds nasty..

[copmagnet]

I'm sure by this point your tired of answering my newbish questions... But hey, I'm new to turbos.

I need this part

http://m.ebay.com/itm/161194445246?nav=SEARCH

Plus an oil filter relocation kit?

What about a complete delete? As such..http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/block%20adapter%20installed.jpg

But I don't see how the coolant hose would connect to that delete.. /confizzled

[slow90coupe]

I'd do the bottom piece if I did it again. There's like millimeters between my oil filter relocation spin-on piece and the header. The bottom piece would give you some room to work with.

[copmagnet]

How do you go about connecting the lower coolant tube to that piece? Did you have to modify the coolant tubes or anything?

[slow90coupe]

I think you just connect a 90 degree piece of hose to the old radiator hose and that piece.

[copmagnet]

What relocation kit did you use? I feel like I can piece one together cheaper then some places are asking for one.

[slow90coupe]

Most important piece is this

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-23686

 

Then you'll need AN lines/fittings to connect this to the piece on3 includes with the kit. Then you'll also still have to make a bracket to mount the oil filter. It's a ton of work and piecing together to make a good kit.

[copmagnet]

So what your saying is just pay the 200$ for the MMR kit? Lol

[slow90coupe]

So what your saying is just pay the 200$ for the MMR kit? Lol

Pretty much, lol. It's a bargain.

[copmagnet]

Good deal lol.I'm sure I will have more questions eventually.

[tangerine]

Hey , I dont really get on here a whole lot but fell upon this through a google search.

I was kinda wondering how reliable this kit is ? ( now I know performance isnt really reliable ) lol

Did you buy the newer stye with forward facing headers , and if so is it really necessary to use a tubular k member?

who did you buy the kit through? I have seen so many people sell them so i guess it really dont matter.

Did you do any other work to bottom end , heads, or intake set up. ( if you said , sorry about asking to repeat )

Thats about all the questions I have to ask . Thanks !!!!

I am looking into them now that they have been on the market for a while and have some bugs worked out...

[slow90coupe]

I haven't had a single problem out of the car since installing the kit and getting it running. A tubular k-member IS required to even start thinking about installing the headers. It is the forward facing kit. I bought the kit direct from on3. My engine is bone stock other than a PI intake and it runs good for what it is.

[tangerine]

I haven't had a single problem out of the car since installing the kit and getting it running. A tubular k-member IS required to even start thinking about installing the headers. It is the forward facing kit. I bought the kit direct from on3. My engine is bone stock other than a PI intake and it runs good for what it is.

Thank ya sir.

I wasnt sure if the hot side still went through the k member or not . They say on their site that its required but I thought that was just to get more money out of the sale. Lol

Glad to hear its working good for you , and thanks again for the info.....

[Forcefedhatch]

Man.. that's too much.. I think I will just build a kit.

[tangerine]

Chris you should build one for me .. hahaha

Give me your adress and i'll have the car delivered. Lol

[Forcefedhatch]

Haha...

I am actually working with someone on fabbing a fully bolt on with stock or after let H or X pipe twin kit. . Slot style maf.. etc..I may even use my 99 as a test car for the season next year.. dunno yet tho

[clark98gt]

I seen this thread and though I should share my on3 experience. I completely agree with all the add ons slow mentioned but right now my kit has been pulled off and stuffed in a box. I tried and tried to get the turbo, water pump, and fan clearance just right and without moving the radiator on my car, it's just not happening. I had other fitment issues also but he covered them in his build thread.

[Cobraracer46]

Haha...

I am actually working with someone on fabbing a fully bolt on with stock or after let H or X pipe twin kit. . Slot style maf.. etc..I may even use my 99 as a test car for the season next year.. dunno yet tho

 

 

I seen this thread and though I should share my on3 experience. I completely agree with all the add ons slow mentioned but right now my kit has been pulled off and stuffed in a box. I tried and tried to get the turbo, water pump, and fan clearance just right and without moving the radiator on my car, it's just not happening. I had other fitment issues also but he covered them in his build thread.

It seems that turbo kits are nothing but head aches. In my view, if you want add bost to your Mustang, Supercharging is the way to go as everything is engineered to bolt on and fit correctly. Plus swapping out the factory k member is not required. 

[ttocs]

for reliability and ease of install the superchargers have been tried and tested and are solid performers.  But I don't think anyone will deny that a well done turbo kit will outperform a supercharger.  Its not for everyone as I considered it but found a deal on a NIB vortech that I could not pass up. 

[Forcefedhatch]

I've never swapped k members for kits I have fabbed up..but I've Truly never had any headaches.. I have also never had to. Purchase a a kit either.. I build mine..

[slow90coupe]

Yeah it's all personal preference. I loved my Vortech and it made great power and was extremely easy to install. But I can walk down the street and find Vortech Mustangs on almost every street. Turbo 2v's... I can only name one or two in my state. So it's the "cool factor" that made the swap worth it for me.

[Cobraracer46]

for reliability and ease of install the superchargers have been tried and tested and are solid performers.  But I don't think anyone will deny that a well done turbo kit will outperform a supercharger.  Its not for everyone as I considered it but found a deal on a NIB vortech that I could not pass up. 

It's an open ended question as to what performs better, blower or turbo, but superchargers can go head to head with turbos. Take a look at this:

 

29 pounds of boost out of a T-Trim Vortech results in a  7.99 170 MPH. 

 

[Zach]

Yea but superchargers are limited in the rpm they can spin, and also have a parasitic drag on the engine. Where as turbos can spin in excess of 150,000 rpm and are free power adders by not dragging any horse power.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[slow90coupe]

I'd be willing to bet that same car would run a 7.60 with 29lbs of boost on a comparable turbo setup.

[Det_Riot]

@MustangMagazine. This thread should thoroughly outline most of the headaches you'll run into