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BrettNorton

A Slow Build: College Kid's 1994 Mustang - Engine and Transmission are in the Car!!!

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Hey everybody, my name is Brett Norton, new to the site.  I am posting a build thread / progression of my 1994 Mustang.  It is originally an abandoned V6 auto car, but I am embarking on the task of converting it to a somewhat reliable V8 5-speed car... with a carburetor.  This project will take a very long time since I am going through with it while attending college, and I will be attempting to do as much of the work myself as possible.

 

For the first 16 years of its life, this 1994 Mustang was used as a basic commuter car.  Getting people from point A to point B.  All of the previous owners were women.  The original owner was a woman, and the second owner (previous to me) was a woman who had daughters of driving age that also drove the car.  The car performed its commuting job well, driving all the way until 230,000 miles when a catastrophic failure occurred which changed the car's life forever.

 

One day in 2010, one of the daughters was driving the car on the highway and the engine started overheating.  It was later discovered that the engine had blown a head gasket, which I am sure many of you know is a common failure with early Ford 3.8L V6 engines and not cheap to fix.  Because of the high expense of a head gasket repair, the previous owner abandoned the car in a bush in her back yard and let it sit there.

 

Fast-forward to 2014.

 

My parents knew about my joy of working on cars and a desire to have a Mustang.  One day, my good mother went to her friend's house to get together and hang out.  When she came home, she told me about a Mustang that had been sitting in her friend's back yard for a few years.  I went up to the friend's / previous owner's house shortly after that to see what my mother was talking about.  A few months later, I paid $400 to tow that Mustang off the previous owner's property.

 

Now, on to the details about my 1994 Mustang and its overall condition.  Things I knew, and things I later found out...

 

Pros:

  • Car is originally black (of any color, I think black cars look the best)
  • Car is fairly complete (no major parts appear to be missing)
  • Body is pretty straight (with the exception of the driver's side fender which is easily replaced)
  • Body is rust free
  • Torque boxes are in good shape
  • All body openings (hood, doors, trunk) open and close perfectly
  • All body gaps are just right (except for driver's side fender)
  • No evidence of animal / rodent infestation
  • Cloth seats are not completely trashed (only a small rip in the fabric of the driver's side seat bolster)
  • Dry rotted tires still hold air
  • Mach 460 sound system (not excellent, but still nice)
  • Only paid $400 for it

Cons:

  • Original V6 engine has a blown a head gasket and was overheated long ago
  • AODE trans supposedly has issues 
  • Electrical short drawing battery power even with the key off
  • 230,000 miles on body and drivetrain
  • Car was abandoned and sat in a bush for 4 years
  • Wasps love making nests out of the car wherever they can
  • Because of a collision with a deer, the driver's side fender has a noticeable dent in it, the fiberglass hood has cracks along the front, and the headlight panel is broken
  • Noticeable chip in the windshield
  • Crappy tint bubbling up
  • Slight rustiness underneath the trunk floor
  • At some point in time, the tail pipe was caught on a curb and kinked
  • When the tail pipe was bent, it hit the driver's side shock and slightly crushed it
  • On hot summer days, the interior smells like ass
  • On rainy days, water leaks into the trunk through the holes for the wing 
  • Rear bumper cover is the only body panel without clear coat peeling off of it 
  • Multiple dings, scuffs, and scratches all over the body

 

The plan for the build is to rebuild the drivetrain of this Mustang on a budget but with quality parts.  I want it to make a decent amount of power and make that power reliably without breaking down or falling apart.  It will be a car that I can drive on the street and possibly attend car shows, cruises, etc.

 

 

The build:

  • Mild 302 motor with stock bottom end, Trick Flow stage 1 cam, GT40 / GT40P heads, HEI distributor, and Holley 4V carburetor (yes, I am putting a carb on an SN95 Mustang) 
  • Built T5 trans with new flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate DONE
  • Rebuilt 8.8" rear end with 3.73 gears, new traction-lok clutches, bearings, and seals
  • Suspension overhaul with subframe connectors, urethane bushings, lowering springs, rear control arms, struts, shocks, steering, etc. DONE
  • Complete brake job from master cylinder to brake rotors
  • Cleanup and painting of the engine bay along with cleanup and undercoating of the undercarriage DONE
  • Minimal body and interior work (body and interior will likely look similar to how they are now)
  • Any other miscellaneous crap that comes up

 

This will be a very long project, but I will do my best to push through it while attending college.

 

This is where I found the car in Holton, KS.  It sat in this spot for 4 years.

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This is what the car looked like just a few weeks after I brought it home!

 

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Edited by BrettNorton
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August 2014,

 

Sadly, while going to pick the car up, my phone died and I did not have a charger with me.  I could not get any pics of the car being trailered home.  The car made the trip home just fine however.  Time for interior and exterior inspection.

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August 2014,

 

Always pull out the front seats when cleaning up the interior.  Not only was there so much crap underneath those seats to clean up, but I will also be replacing the unreliable power track of the driver's seat with a manual track.

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Even after the cleaning, there were still many stains in the carpet along with a musky odor still residing inside the car.

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Edited by BrettNorton
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September 2014,

 

Car is now on jack stands ready for teardown.

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First parts off are the damaged front bumper cover, headlight mounting panel, and driver's side fender.  Damage courtesy of a fender-bender with a deer.  Sadly, one of the bolts securing the fender to the rocker panel snapped, so that is going to be a pain in the ass to take care of.

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Edited by BrettNorton
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September 2014,

 

I pulled out the original V6 auto PCM, but I am unsure with what I can replace it with.

Will I have to use a V8 5-speed T4M0 PCM since I will have a V8 engine?

Or....

Can I simply be plug in a V6 5-speed A4X3 PCM? (Remember, I am going with a carburetor on this build)

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September 2014,

 

Fuel tank needs to be dropped to drain out the old gas and replace the fuel pump with a pickup tube.  Those fuel lines were a BITCH to pull off.  It was an exercise in the usage of many cuss words.

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@Det_Riot

I understand that fuel injection is better for pretty much every driving situation.  I can also obtain all possible fuel injection parts needed since I live just down the road from Midwest Mustang (Mustang salvage yard FYI) along with being good friends with the owner.  However, I just want to try a carb out on this build.  Don't really know why I guess, just feel like trying it out.  

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September 2014,

 

I tested the battery in the car, and something was drawing 4 amps with the key off.  I had to pull out the center console and found the culprit.  The Jensen radio (along with an Alpine alarm system) is the only modification to the car.  I tested the battery after pulling the radio out and... NO MORE ELECTRICAL DRAW!!!  This saves me a huge headache of tracing something that would have taken many hours for me to find.

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September 2014,

 

The engine is ready to pull out, but it will be difficult to do since I have to pull the trans out with it.  Like what has happened to many other people, one of the damn starter bolts rounded off on me.  There is so little clearance between the header and K-member to get the socket on the bolt exactly perfectly.

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September 2014,

 

Alright, so the engine and trans were not that difficult to pull out after all.  Instead of me having to use a hoist, my grandpa helped me out with his John Deere tractor, making the pullout a breeze.  Just a few more parts to pull out of the engine bay and it will be ready for cleanup and paint.

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October 2014,

 

Original 7.5" rear end was a pain to pull out.  Upper control arms were not a problem to pull off, but in order to pull out the lower control arms, me and my grandpa each had to use a breaker bar on the nuts and bolts to break them loose.  Not even a decent impact gun could loosen things up.  The struggle did not end there however, as the bolt on the driver's side was too rusty to pull out of the bushing along with not enough clearance to drive it out from the threaded side. To make clearance, I took an oxyacetylene torch to the bolt head, then finally drove it out with a punch.  Underside is now ready to be cleaned and undercoated.

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October 2014,

 

Now comes up another issue with rusty hardware.  The bolt holding the battery wedge to the tray snapped off, so I had to remove the battery tray.  However, the head of the lower bolt holding the tray to the frame was so rusty that it was rounded off before I even had a socket on it.  There was not enough clearance for pliers, so I took a pry bar to each side of the battery tray and broke it off of the bolt.  With the tray out of the way, I grabbed the bolt with pliers and twisted it out.  Battery tray and hardware will definitely be replaced.

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October 2014,

 

Well, it is time to put the Mustang project aside for a bit. I tell my family that it is so I can focus more on school, but really, I am just trying to wait out the cold a$$ weather since the car is outside and I hate working in cold a$$ weather.

 

The car is just a body shell on jack stands right now. When spring break comes around, I will start cleaning up the engine bay and underside to paint and undercoat them respectively.

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Thanks doods.  Love the build threads on here.  Especially threads where the car in question goes through an amazing evolution over the years to become something great.  Gives me inspiration.

 

On a side note @Det_Riot, I believe that my parts car is going to be a complete, running and driving, decent condition 1995 Mustang 5.0 5-speed that Midwest Mustang is trying to sell for $3500.  They cannot seem to sell the complete car because nobody wants it.  The reason? 

 

.........................It's teal in color.................... 

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I need another PCM to replace the V6 auto PCM that I pulled out.  I believe a 5-speed PCM is needed in order to keep the speedometer and reverse lights working.

 

Question:

 

Will I simply be able to plug in a V6 5-speed computer since I will be using a Holley carb and Pertronix ignition to run the engine?

Or....

Do I have to use a 5.0 5-speed computer in order to make everything work right?

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wow quite the project. if you need any stock pieces let me know.  I have some spare side scoops that are black if you wanted to replace yours.  also have a good set of stock rotors and calipers with hardly and miles on them.  I parted a 96 GT and still have a ton of parts left over.  

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@Blackmage

Thanks for the parts offer man.  If that would have been a 94-95 GT that you are parting out, I would be jumping all over your offer for all kinds of parts.  However, I will be getting most of the stock parts that I need from Midwest Mustang since I live just down the road from them and they are parting out all kinds of SN95 Mustangs.  I could use some better brake calipers, but would you also happen to have any decent shocks and struts lying around?

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February 2015,

 

Hooray! The weather was not colder than holy hell today!  So, I pulled off the steering rack along with scraping off most of the crappy window tint and stickers that were on the car.

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Just some quick pics of my cars.

 

My 1999 Volvo S70 daily driver on a 20 degree day after an hour long drive through shitty snowy roads.

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The 1994 Mustang project on a 70 degree day 2 days after the Volvo pic was taken.

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.....................

 

Kansas weather is bipolar I swear.

 

Edited by BrettNorton
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March 2015,

 

Ahhhh, another day where the weather is not too cold out.  I pulled out some old security system wiring and the rear seat, and OH MY GOD how did all that crap get underneath there!?!?  I will definitely clean all that up, but maybe later.  The weather outside now is not completely unbearable, but it is not something that I want to work in for hours.

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In my absence, I have figured out my next major task.  The car is just outside my grandpa's shop right now because when I brought it back, he was initially reluctant to put the car inside his shop.  However, he has decided to allow me to put the car inside the shop if I can get it back on its wheels (which I was going to do anyway).  After a summer of working hard, I will buy an 8.8" rear end out of a 94-95 Mustang GT and refurbish all needed suspension components in order to put the car on the ground again.  With the car in the shop, I will finally be able to work on it without worrying about bad weather getting in my way.

 

 

 

Edited by BrettNorton
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March 2015,
 
As I said last week, I would clean up underneath the rear seat. I have vacuumed it as well as the trunk floor. Even after vacuuming though, both areas still look like crap. Oh well, no getting around it I guess.

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I also prepared the engine bay for cleaning. I got rid of the cruise control servo and horns under the driver's side fender. I got rid of the charcoal canister underneath the passenger's side fender (what the fuel evap line goes to). I also removed the main chassis harness, and I moved the secondary engine control harness (mass airflow, CCRM, cooling fan) out of the way. The green spots in the pic are pieces of tape which cover up the holes in the firewall. Do not want weather, bugs, or other gremlins getting in there. Engine bay is now ready for cleaning and painting.

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Edited by BrettNorton
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@Det_Riot

When I showed my dad what was underneath the rear seat, he asked me, "Was the previous owner a female?"  To which I replied, "Yup.  Females to be exact."

 

But yeah, the car has only been owned and driven by women its whole life.  The previous owner was a woman with daughters of driving-age, and the owner before that (the original owner) was a woman.  The female ownership might explain why the car shows no signs of ever being driven hard.  Hell, it has 230,000 miles and the rear torque boxes are in perfect shape. 

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Welcome for one, and the parasitic draw you have on the battery I am 99% sure is one of the Mach amps, mine had the same thing, dead after 2-3 days.. Even with a new battery.. Forums the amp was staying hott at al times

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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@Forcefedhatch

Hmmmm...  I will look into that amp issue some more.  I definitely know that something was shorting out the battery when I got the car.  I pulled the aftermarket Jensen radio out and lost the electrical draw.  However, I tested the system (without radio plugged in) after I pulled the PCM out, so that might be why I did not get a bad reading on the meter.  Sadly, I cannot test it right now, because the PCM is gone and there is too much wiring that is either gone or not currently in the car.  When the car is all put back together (which will not be until a few years from now), I will definitely take a look at those Mach 460 amps. 

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March 2015,

 

So far, this thread has just been about me tearing my 1994 Mustang down to the bare body shell. But today, I actually got a part installed on the car.  A dent-free black driver’s side fender.

I got the fender, inner fender, and all necessary mounting hardware from Midwest Mustang in Lawrence.  Paid $50 cash for the whole setup.  I was all ready to get the fender installed, however I had to deal with something mentioned in a previous post:

 

“One of the bolts securing the fender to the rocker panel snapped, so that is going to be a pain in the ass to take care of.”

 

Was it a pain in the ass to take care of?  YOU BET YOUR ASS IT WAS A PAIN IN THE ASS TO TAKE CARE OF.  First, I attempted to drill a small hole through the bolt in order to slowly step up to larger sizes and drill the bolt out and save the threads.  Well, I snapped two small drill bits in this process, so my grandpa stepped in to help me before I took a friggin’ torch to that tiny broken bolt.  Now, my grandpa has many years of experience in the construction industry, so he knows how to solve these kinds of problems.  He took the other fender-to-rocker panel bolt that did not snap, measured the very end of the threaded side of it with a caliper, and grabbed the 3/16” drill bit he needed in order to drill out the old bolt.  My grandpa successfully drilled the old bolt out, I thanked him dearly for his help, and he went back inside the house to watch the basketball game on TV.  Ecstatic, I put the new bolt into the hole and attempted to thread it in, but it would not go.  I noticed inside the new hole that there were not any threads left after it was drilled out.  Not wanting to disturb my grandpa any more about the issue, I grabbed his tap and die set in order to create new threads.  A 3/16” hole was drilled, so I grabbed a tap that is one size bigger than 3/16”, which is 13/64”.  I ran the tap through the hole, backed it out, put the bolt in, and it threaded in PERFECTLY.  YES!  A great feat has been accomplished, because like many other people, I HATE SNAPPED BOLTS!!!  I HATE THEM SO MUCH NOW THAT I WISH I COULD EAT THEM AND TURN THEM INTO POO!!!

 

The fender itself also has its own little horror story to tell.  As I said before, I got the fender from Midwest Mustang.  It has no noticeable dents in it, but it has a few tiny spots of red paint on the front of it.  No, the red paint is not the horror story about this fender.  What IS the horror story about it is trying to get the damn thing to line up properly with the hood and the door.  The passenger’s side fender is original to the car and has the little Ford logo stamped into the mounting flange underneath the hood.  It lines up perfectly.  However, this driver’s side fender has no Ford logo stamped into it, which tells me that I have an AFTERMARKET fender.  I did research about aftermarket 94-98 Mustang fenders, and learned that aftermarket fenders never really line up perfectly since they are not manufactured to the level of specificity that an OEM fender provides.  After much attention to detail and many adjustments, I got the fender to line up the best that I could, and I actually have to say that it does not look too bad.  The gap is a bit tight at the windshield cowl and front roof rail, but that is just me being picky.  It is not perfect by any means, but you cannot see body gap issues right away.

 

Anyway, here is the fender installed.

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March 2015,

 

Spring break is coming soon.  No obligation to be at school, no obligation to be at work, no obligation to be anywhere.  Just me, my 1994 Mustang, and new parts from Late Model Restoration just waiting to be installed.  This project will be on a roll next week.  Stay tuned my friends…

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Edited by BrettNorton
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March 2015,

 

A little bit of a funny side story going on before my spring break post-a-thon happens.  Hope that I do not get warned or banned from the website for this.

 

My grandparents have a dog named Rusty.  Rusty is a Toy Papillion, only weighs about 5 pounds, and is fully grown.  Recently, Rusty broke his leg running down the stairs.  Small dog.  Small bones.  Broken bones are bound to happen.

 

Anyway, Rusty has a good-sized cast on his leg now, and it cannot get dirty when he has to go outside.  Since a plastic sandwich bag tied around the cast kept falling off, my grandparents have resorted to putting Magnum XL condoms on the cast.  Funny right? 

 

WRONG.  IT GETS EVEN FUNNIER FROM THERE.  My grandparents do not want to keep going to the store to buy condoms.  It is a bit embarrassing for them.  To solve the problem, they reuse the same condom on the cast every time.  You know what I have say to them every time they put that exact same condom on Rusty's leg?

 

"Hey.  You do know that is a used condom right?" :D

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Spring break 2015,

Day 1 of 5

 

Alright!  My first day of spring break 2015.  My parts are in, I have no obligation to be anywhere, and my younger brother Justin is here to help me out.  Let’s get started.

 

I got up at about 8:00 this morning, ate breakfast, and went out to work on the Mustang.  I did a few knick-knack jobs, but could not get much done until 12:00 noon when Justin woke up.  Waking up very late in the day.  Kind of one of those things that teenagers his age (16) do.  We started installing the lower battle boxes from Late Model Restoration (LMR).  The provided instructions in the LMR kit are all the DIY person like myself needs to install the lower battle boxes.

 

I cleaned up and painted underneath the car while Justin took a wire wheel to the sound-deadening tar in the interior.  Yeah, the wire wheel to tar idea might not have been the best one, but it was the simplest option available.  Also, wear some damn safety goggles and a dust mask when wire wheeling under any rusty dirty car.  The $I-I!+ gets everywhere, including your eyes and lungs without the safety gear on.

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Anyway, to install lower battle boxes on any 79-04 Mustang, there are openings in the frame rails where the triangle-shaped pieces go through.  On 94-04 Mustangs however, these openings have to be enlarged a bit for the triangular plate to fit.  I used a grinder to enlarge the opening.

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The 3/8” holes were drilled, hardware was installed, and plates were painted up.  With two people working at it, the lower battle boxes were not that difficult to install at all.

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The lower battle boxes were bolted in and I wanted to have Justin weld them up.  Justin is used to MIG welding, but unfortunately, the available MIG welder had no CO2 gas in it.  So instead of a MIG welder, Justin attempted to use an old wire welder with flux core to weld up the lower battle boxes.  Needless to say, with a wire welder that had not been used in 5+ years, the welds did not turn out very well at all.  Justin said that the wire was being fed at erratic, unpredictable speeds and that is what resulted in crap welds.  Justin is better with welding and metal fabrication than I am, so I will believe him on that account.  The crap welds will be ground off, and my grandpa will pick up some CO2 gas for the MIG welder tomorrow.

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Next doable task was installing the upper battle boxes also from LMR.  Justin and I only got one of the upper battle boxes bolted in for now.  We will eventually have to take the whole setup back out in order to clean and paint the areas around it.  Unlike the instructions for the lower battle boxes, the instructions provided in the LMR upper battle box kit are not enough for the average DIY to understand the installation.  I suggest googling “Mustang battle box install” and going to the website listed in the search called mikefordmustang.com.  The upper battle box installation there is much clearer and touches on solutions to problems not given in the instructions.  Back on topic.  The difficult part about this install for me was after I drilled my holes for the upper ½” bolts, I had to enlarge them into a bit more of an oval shape in order for the bolts to be able to get through completely.  Speaking of bolts, I had to get some 3/8” and ½” bolts from Home Depot that are ½” longer than the bolts provided.  The provided bolts are barely long enough to go through the floor of the car and both upper battle box plates.  I installed the new upper ½” bolts with the provided angled spacers and nuts along with some flat washers (not provided in the LMR kit).  I drilled out the lower 3/8” holes while Justin pushed against the curved plate inside the car with a pipe.  Without Justin doing what I explained, these upper battle boxes would have taken me much longer to bolt in since the drill bit would have just scratched the plate instead of going through it.  I then installed the lower 3/8” bolts with the provided nuts and some lock washers (I repeat, washers are not provided in the LMR torque box kit).

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Hopefully, my grandpa remembers to get that CO2 gas tomorrow.  I plan on having Justin weld up the battle boxes inside the car as well as welding up the spot welded torque boxes underneath the car.  The subframe connectors also need to be welded in.

 

Stay tuned for an update tomorrow…

 

 

 

Edited by BrettNorton
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@Det_Riot

 

Hell, appearance is the lowest priority of this project!  I am still going to leave the body close to exactly how I found it!  Kind of like an SN95 Mustang rat rod.  I already got a dent-free driver's side fender installed, and I will also be getting a straight front bumper cover and headlight mounting panel to put on.  I will also clean up the tail lights a bit.  Only new part I plan on adding to the exterior is a set of Cobra headlights.

 

Everything that I just explained is the only body work that will be happening in Budget 302 Build.  I do not really think that one can use budget and body shop in the same sentence.

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