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SN95_Justin

some jacked up issue...

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so, i'm at a loss on where to look next.. 

 

as most of you know, I finished my swap ad drove the car around. got about 120 miles on it.

 

my car will not run now. the engine turns over, it's getting spark, but the fuel pump wouldn't run until i jumped it to the positive battery cable. i'm not getting any input voltage on the CCRM on pin 18. so i jumpered pin 5 to the positive terminal. figured this would get the car started. NO. i'm getting fuel pressure (unknown pressure since i didn't test that now, guessing the 38lb's i was getting before) 

 

I haven't checked voltage at the injectors yet.

 

My CEL light was also constantly flashing, haven't checked the codes yet either. 

 

anyone ever encountered this problem? maybe i have to get my MS2 running faster than expected now..

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My car wouldnt run correctly at all without a proper tune. still seems like something else is wrong if your fuel pump isn't turning on though. which mass air did you end up with?

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IIRC those "matched" mass air sensors aren't the best. @The Mk2 will know more than me but just to give you something to go by this is how shitty my car ran without proper base tune, it was undrivable. Stock computer (no tune), Lmaf and 47lb injectors.

https://youtu.be/LYfabeALhP4

Also, just a maybe overlooked simple check. Have to checked to make sure your inertia switch isn't tripped?

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how are your grounds?  make sure your battery and engine have good chassis grounds.  i'd had weird problems when my engine ground wasn't solid.

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so, i'm at a loss on where to look next.. 

 

as most of you know, I finished my swap ad drove the car around. got about 120 miles on it.

 

my car will not run now. the engine turns over, it's getting spark, but the fuel pump wouldn't run until i jumped it to the positive battery cable. i'm not getting any input voltage on the CCRM on pin 18. so i jumpered pin 5 to the positive terminal. figured this would get the car started. NO. i'm getting fuel pressure (unknown pressure since i didn't test that now, guessing the 38lb's i was getting before) 

 

I haven't checked voltage at the injectors yet.

 

My CEL light was also constantly flashing, haven't checked the codes yet either. 

 

anyone ever encountered this problem? maybe i have to get my MS2 running faster than expected now..

 

Will the fuel pump prime at all? like, as soon as you turn the key, does it run for 2-3 seconds?

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As far as the questions. I haven't checked codes yet. Waiting to get my OBD1 scanner from my brother. I haven't checked grounds yet either. But my fuel pump doesn't prime at all when ignition is turned on. Had to splice a wire into the harness to get any power to the pump.

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Okay, so I finally found some time in between work and school to touch the car. here are the codes i pulled via jumper wire..

 

113 IAT/ACT sensor circuit above maximum voltage (i dont have this sensor plugged in)

121 Closed Throttle Voltage Higher Or Lower Than Expected or Indicates Throttle Position Voltage Inconsistent With Mass Air Flow Sensor 

 

These are because I dont have EGR or smog pump.. pretty sure.

327

552

553

558

 

current symptoms. 

  • Fuel pump intermittently primes/runs. was priming/running when I first started messing with it today. Then quit all of a sudden. was reading 38+- PSI does run with a jumper wire but won't fire.
  • Engine was surging when I got it to crank. couldn't get it to idle right. I did check for spark on all cylinders 

I was getting ready to check and calibrate my TPS sensor when the fuel pump quit priming. 

 

now I'm at a brick wall with were to begin.. thinking maybe PCM or the CCRM is going bad, but don't know where to begin to rule those out right now. am currently doing some research trying to figure it out.

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Shooting in the dark here, but have you had any of the main bulkhead connections on the harnesses off recently?  You've got such a strange collection of issues that I almost wonder if the connectors aren't seated properly.  My car did all sorts of goofy crap when I didn't have the main bulkhead connector seated all the way.

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@Tabres Definitely worth a look at. Gonna go get some breakfast and get my brother out of bed and I'll start on the diagnosis again.

Also going to try another engine ground. This car was hacked up when I got it, so lord knows what it's actually missing. Gotta love getting other peoples crap.

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checked that the harness was properly connected. now I'm not getting spark and the fuel pump isn't priming. pulled the spout, and I have spark. that points to the PIP, but My MSD distributor has less than 150 miles on it.. 

 

anybody have a box of matches?

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Did a ton of extensive testing and wound up chasing my tail seems. Learned that when my fuel pump primes on its own, that the fan turns on like it should (barely turns because it's getting signal from the ecu).

When the fuel pump doesn't prime on its own, the fan is on high speed ( like it's not getting the signal that it needs to turn off)

Through my tests it seems hat my CCRM is fine, but it has led me to believe that the ECU may be bad?

Thoughts?

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When my ccrm went bad my fan would run on high whenever battery voltage was applied. So idk if that helps but just food for thought.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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So I never got the CCRM. But I did pick up a new T4M0 ECU to try out. Did come with a Diablo chip too..

Still didn't fix the issues I'm having. All our testing seemed like it was pointing to the ecu but now I'm thinking it is the ccrm again..

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Are you serious?! I would of thought for sure that would of solved your problems. Ok start at the beginning. Are you sure your actual fuel pump is in good working order? Have you check the connections at the fuel pump?

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No, I didn't bother with checking those connections because I ran a jumper wire straight from the input to the pump and it primes manually.

The other thing is when the ignition is turned on, the fan is on high speed with no fuel priming.

When the fuel pump decides to prime (got it to do it once while testing) the fan doesn't turn on (which is normal)

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This sounds a lot like an issue I had.  I ended up replacing *everything* before I decided to pull the damn pump.  When I did I discovered the rubber hose that connects the pump to the tank had rotted away.  Turned out, I could have bought $0.50 worth of hose instead of $500 worth of other stuff.

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I can't remember, had the distributor been checked?!? This really sounds like a bad module to me. That's exactly what happened to me couple years ago. Replaced distributor and car never had an issue again

This message courtesy of crapatalk!

 

as much as i want to agree with you, i want to disagree because this is a brand new MSD with 120 miles on it. not going to rule it out, but i'm going to be pissed when my $315 dizzy is the part that messed everything up..

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I can't remember, had the distributor been checked?!? This really sounds like a bad module to me. That's exactly what happened to me couple years ago. Replaced distributor and car never had an issue again

This message courtesy of crapatalk!

 

as much as i hate to say it, and i'm glad to say it at the same time. i'm 98% sure the module inside was the issue. unplugged the dizzy from the harness and everything worked like it should. i knew it was something so simple that i was overlooking the whole time. summit is shipping me out another in the AM free of charge. 

 

so in two - three days i'll have an update on if this was the issue or not.

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so. got my distributor in. plugged it up and the same shit happened. checked all fuses. they were all good. testing the ignition input (red/green) to the dizzy and i'm getting 12v.

 

pulled the spout and everything worked again. tried to start again with the spout fired once and with spout out still same symptoms. 

 

i've hit a wall here. new distributor, new CCRM, and new to me ECU. 

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Sounds like something's missing a ground or power. Try checking the pins in the harness that connects to the ecu and ccrm. We had a truck at work the other day that would turn over but not start no codes or anything. Turns out the injector driver pin in the ecu harness had slid out just enough to break contact we took a small screw driver slid it in and truck fired right up. So it could be something simple like that I'd check there and any grounds you can find too.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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finally found some time to get down to the garage and try some things out on the car. had the switch turned on and i decided to wiggle the injector harness and everything started working again. drove it up and down the road twice. did have some intermittent misfiring ranging from "mild" to "what the fuck is going on". needless to say, she's parked back in the stable. 

 

so basically, i found where my problem lies and now i just have to figure out what it is exactly. i have the whole harness stripped down and i have to go over every wire carefully. 

 

This is the only thing i hate about EFI... wiring...

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Glad to see you finally got a lead to the possible cause of the issue. Check the connector and see if there's any corrosion that could be causing the intermittent issues!

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