Jump to content
Prokiller

Black Pearl Evolution Redux

Recommended Posts

At least it was something simple and easy to fix and not $$$$. Sometimes those are the worst though.

 

Should be all set now.

 

BTW when he was talking about the amp getting warm. It was not under the rear seat delete. We had the top off of it and doors to car open. It was getting air. Granted it is still in the cavern of under the rear seat. Fans would help but if he plans to move it soon would it really be needed? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it sounds like when the amp got warm it was in a good situation with plenty of fresh air around it?  If that is the case I don't see it being that long that you find out if the amp has thermal protection, or if you wished it did.  Some amps when they reach a certain temp will shut down to protect the amp and some will just continue to cook.  Move the amp or get some fans to push/pull.  You can wire them up to the amps power with a relay to turn on/off with the deck or add a switch to turn them on when you need them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the sub amp was cool as a cucumber which is the one i'm worried about.  i think the speaker amp (300.4) is too small anyway so if blows up, then so be it and time to upgrade.  i've been driving it with the cover off and it stays cool enough i think.  always have the windows down anyway since there is no more a/c

Link to comment
Share on other sites

alt as in alternator.  the wire that the end fell off of even though i swear it was crimped nice and tight.

 

on other news, i switched out the ignition switch at the suggestion of @Yeahloh95 as the cause of the mysterious and random stutter bullshit it does.  the previous owner had installed this ghetto alarm system that was not installed properly (all the wires were just stripped and twisted together, never actually connected or soldered).  i pulled that thing out while i was in there.  still have to fix a line that goes over to the drivers side door for the locking feature but not like it's a big deal. 

 

however, i did find this nonsense that i cut out and replaced:

20180615_134115

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure how that wire would cause the amp to heat up. 

 

There is actually a wire splice called a military splice where you do not use solder or connectors that was actually recommended for a while by some of the bigger alarm manf.   Your supposed to strip a 1/4" off, separate or poke a hole through the wire strands that show and then you stick your wire through the hole and then wrap it around the stripped wire.  Just a piece of tape for insulation and then put a wire tie either just above where the wires meet, or above all the wires you are splicing into the harness and it actually makes for a fairly secure connection.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well it seems those military splices might have been the root of my stuttering problem.  it was an utter shitshow in there.  i pulled it all out and seems to be running great. the only problem right now is that it doesn't want to start when turning the key.  It's almost like the brand new ignition switch is bad or something.  if you move the column up and down, it will fire.  going to pull it apart again one night this week and look into the wiring again.  perhaps put my old ignition switch back in and test.

 

it was borderline not going to go to the AM show on saturday but i said screw it and brought it.  thankfully i did because i took home Best in Class 94-98!

20180616_162614

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

well back when I installed I only soldered but that was just back in 1991 so maybe I have been doing this a while ??? Ryan's wiring was a joke and I am so glad he got that crap out of there .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

messed with the wiring sunday morning a bit.  turn the key and wiggled a wire at a time going to the ignition switch.  found the culprit.  It was one of the wires that alarm was spliced into.  cut out the section and put in a new bit of wire.  also took back out the ignition switch and put dielectric grease on all the contacts to make sure they are good.  i accidentally popped a fuse when i doing it by grounding out my strippers to the dash metal....

 

go to test it and the key gets stuck in the ignition.  like really stuck.  won't turn, won't come out.  steering wheel turning doesn't do anything, the lock level doesn't help.  eventually sprayed in some wd40 to hopefully loosen up the cylinder.  and then this happened...

20180624_105138

 

damn thing just pulled right out.  so now i got to get a new cylinder set.  why can't it just be one thing...i fix one stupid little thing, but in doing so, another stupid little thing happens.

 

seems like my best option is to get this set:

https://www.americanmuscle.com/black-lock-set-9495.html

it has the ignition and door keys to match.  the only downside is the trunk wouldn't match.  not the end of the world, but better than having a singular ignition key and another for the rest of the car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

remains to be seen Troy.  who knows with this damn thing.  i'll  put the new cylinder in and the steering shaft will fall off....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

forgot i never updated this.  i got a new cylinder and after fighting with it for a while, finally got it installed.  ended up that the new ignition switch i had bought got messed up trying to get the old key out.  swapped back in my stock one and it's all been working like a champ.  i can't say this completely solved my stuttering problem, but it's like 99% solved.  the one wire is a little loose in the connector and not sure what i can really do about it short of splicing in a whole new harness.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i drove it into work today.  now having the 18, i really think i need to switch to a hydroboost setup.  the brakes stop sure enough, but you have to really hammer it down.  the 18 has a firm pedal feel that is more confident (perhaps thats as good a word as any to use) that this car is currently lacking.  i'm thinking about making that my winter project.  it will be needed anyway down the line when i swap in the coyote as the stock setup won't fit.  get junkyard 99-04 setup and the MM kit.  they say it's only for a fox, but i have a mail out to them now to see what they say about the sn95 application. 

 

and a pic because why not

20180920_074815

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

forgot to update this with MM feedback.  a 99-04 setup won't work on the sn95.  nor will their kit as the fox holes are completely different.  their recommendation is to get a 96-98 cobra hydroboost as it will just swap right in.  so now i'm on the look out for that.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i haven't updated this since october apparently...not that there is anything to update other than i've been driving it when its nice out which is far and few between these days in PA.  it's ALWAYS raining!!

 

but i did get a little blurp in Vortech's coverage of the AM show:

https://vortechsuperchargers.com/blogs/main/vortech-paxton-superchargers-the-11th-annual-american-muscle-mustang-show

prokiller9_01_1024x1024.png?v=1561068736prokiller9_02_1024x1024.png?v=1561068755

You may not see a whole lot of show-worthy pushrod SN95 Mustangs around anymore, but especially not ones that are as nice as Ryan's (@prokiller9). The 1994 GT is nicely modified and rocking a satin finish Vortech V-2 Si-Trim Supercharger under the hood.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i had taken the wheels off before carlisle and spent 4+ hours cleaning them up.  the rears had some serious rust issues on it because the brakes seem to be rusting a good bit.  i want to get new calipers as they are factory stock but the rotors are only maybe 4 year old brembo ones and i wouldn't think they should rust that much...but so be it.  clay barring them basically ruined a clay bar with all the contaminants getting on them but still didn't remove it all.  i talked to guys at the Griots tent at carlisle and got there "iron & fallout remover".  tried it over the weekend on the wheels and it definitely made a huge improvement.  not completely gone but still took the majority of the crap off.  washed them and then waxed them again after.  

 

also discussed with the woman about what the next car project will be.  not too much more i want to buy for the 18 that i can't just buy when i save a few beans.  She wants a 70/71 chevelle (front end of a 70, rear end of a 71).  I've also been saying for years now that when this motor blows, i'll coyote swap it (also the reason i haven't bought a k-member yet).  Well now that we have the 18 that she gets to drive and enjoy, shes not pushing much for the chevelle.  SOOOO.....guess who gets to start a coyote swap next year?  

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

still had the issue of cutting out but was minimized and is the biggest reason this car sits as much as it does.  i just get too pissed off with when it starts that crap and i just park it for a while.  I had off last week and went up to a u-pull-it and cut out a new harness for the ignition switch.  went back home and replaced any wire that was loose or had been hacked into previously.  I also took every wire out of the harness block and pushed the spades closed and dielectric greased the shit out of them.  took it out for a 2.5" hour long drive and it didn't do it once.  SOOOOOO fingers crossed that finally solved my problem, but i've been proven wrong many times in the past with this problem.  we shall see.  but i did really enjoy driving it without that problem. 

 

now to take the driver's door panel off and figure out why my window switch doesn't want to work all the time.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

that will be great if that problem is gone I know when I drove it that was a pain . and just a thought on the hydroboost, what power steering pump will you run with that ? as coyotes don't have one pbh?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

went to take it out two weeks ago and found a nice puddle of diff fluid under it.  seems either the pinion seal or the cover gasket let loose.  let it sit because of mustang week. 

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

finally got the ambition with the few nice days we've had to get back to this thing.  i ordered new fluid, friction modifier and a gasket for the diff.  slowly pulled it into the other garage to work on it.  take off the cover to find this:

20200309_164402

 

20200309_164415

 

20200309_164433

 

20200309_164446

 

all of the bolts were loose and one is missing.  i couldn't find it at first and thought it maybe got pulverized.  but i later found it wedged in the back (technically front) of the diff on the bolt side.  have to fish it out yet.  so i ordered a new diff cover.  went with B&M this time after having seen it on @Shifty's when we did his.  its a solid beefy piece.  that comes in today and going to put it back together tomorrow night.
 

now is it the right move to just put it all back together?  maybe.  but honestly who knows how long its been working like this. and the gear teeth and diff itself show no signs of wear or scaring on them.  so i'm going to run it till it actually blows up then do something about it.

 

  • Thanks 1
  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

got new bolts and thread locked them and put the new cover on.  didn't realize that this thing took a solid 3 qts of fluid and friction modifier.  i had bought two and had half a bottle from previously and it still not full.  had to order another one off amazon cause everything else is closed.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i did finish fixing the rear last month but forgot to update this thread.  seems to be fine at this point.

 

i dropped the car off at R&S automotive down the street this morning.  it's going to get inspected and the torque arm installed.  i've been putting off doing it for like 4 years now because i was going to buy a welder and do it myself.  but really i just don't have the desire to buy one and try and learn on this endeavor.  the brackets are the issue, it's the fact that i need to modify my exhaust to fit the cross brace.  i just don't have faith that i can learn and be good enough to do it right/good.  so finally just bit the bullet and having a professional do it.  he's also going to then setup the suspension and dial it in.  

 

once that's all done, i want to drive it around a bit, put some miles on it and go over it again, fluid, plugs, etc,-wise and then have him throw it up on the dyno and see how the tune is.  going to have him mess with it a little bit to get the top end running better.  i know its leaving power on the table midrange to WOT.

 

as for the coyote...that's still in the cards, but i didn't get the promotion i was supposed to get this year.  so i'm not at all freakin happy with my job right now and looking around.  i just can't justify a coyote swap in a toy vehicle as fiscally responsible given my current state.  i don't think i'll ever just walk out, but depending on what i find in either in the industry or with the company, finances could change.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

got the car back on friday.  it's filthy from sitting out in the rain a couple days.  haven't gotten under there and taken any pictures yet but i will soon.  from the little bit i drove around, it definitely plants waaaayy better than before.  i know the rear wasn't setup properly with only the panhard and coilovers, but i didn't think it was that bad.  it was.  its not up there with the 18 just yet because it still has a mostly stock front end, but it is tons better than ever in the past.  i pushed it in around a corner and you can tell it has more to give but the front end is rolling and flexing a bit and unsure.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


SN95 Source ©

The premier SN95 Community

×
×
  • Create New...