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Prokiller

Black Pearl Evolution Redux

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18 hours ago, Yeahloh95 said:

2 3" computer fans would do the trick on a switch or even the blue wire

but i'd still have to vent them somewhere which is the problem.

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1 hour ago, Prokiller said:

but i'd still have to vent them somewhere which is the problem.

Cut the cover to your rsd. Place the fans underneath the cover spaced apart. Mount them opposite directions so you get a true push pull affect. 

 

The fan closer to the amps he amps should be pushing the air out of the rsd while the other is pulling fresh air in. 

 

This is will allow you to keep em kool and where you have em. 

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anyway to work a grill into the cover?  Could be as simple as getting some grill material, cutting a hole and mounting it from the back, or getting some small speaker grills that could either mount on top or be pressed into the hole for a smooth look.  At that point fans would help but even just getting some holes in it to breath will be a huge gain.  

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you just don't want to "hot box " them

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for those that don't know.  the car missed carlisle again this year because it was being a bag of dicks.  it decided overnight to not charge anymore.  i tore just about everything apart testing and trying to figure out what went wrong.  spent 5 hours messing with and nothing made any sense.  the generator fuse had blown, but replacing it did nothing.  jumping the alternator voltage regulator didn't do it.  checked all my grounds.  swapped the stupid little resistor in the cluster to test.  amongst other things too.  nothing....

 

took the truck to carlisle instead and enjoyed the weekend.

 

Tuesday i go to take the alternator out to get it tested and i hear something hit the floor when i pulled the power wire off (brand new 0ga hydraulically crimped wire).  here the end somehow had enough space in it to cause it to melt.  must have popped the fuse at that point.  but even after i replaced it, it must have had enough resistance built up to not output the 14v.  

 

8980

 

get a new end crimped on by the audio shop i got the stuff from instead of redoing it myself.  fired right up and worked like a champ.

 

of course it couldn't be that easy though...go to tighten down the positive battery clamp and snapped the freakin bolt.

8998

swapped that out last night and drove it to work this morning.

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glad it was an easy fix wish it could have mADE THE show

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That sucks.

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At least it was something simple and easy to fix and not $$$$. Sometimes those are the worst though.

 

Should be all set now.

 

BTW when he was talking about the amp getting warm. It was not under the rear seat delete. We had the top off of it and doors to car open. It was getting air. Granted it is still in the cavern of under the rear seat. Fans would help but if he plans to move it soon would it really be needed? 

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8 hours ago, Shifty said:

At least it was something simple and easy to fix and not $$$$. Sometimes those are the worst though.

 

Should be all set now.

 

BTW when he was talking about the amp getting warm. It was not under the rear seat delete. We had the top off of it and doors to car open. It was getting air. Granted it is still in the cavern of under the rear seat. Fans would help but if he plans to move it soon would it really be needed? 

Amps have fins for cooling. Fresh air flowing through the fins is it’s only way of cooling. Without proper airflow they will indeed overheat quickly. 

 

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it sounds like when the amp got warm it was in a good situation with plenty of fresh air around it?  If that is the case I don't see it being that long that you find out if the amp has thermal protection, or if you wished it did.  Some amps when they reach a certain temp will shut down to protect the amp and some will just continue to cook.  Move the amp or get some fans to push/pull.  You can wire them up to the amps power with a relay to turn on/off with the deck or add a switch to turn them on when you need them.

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the sub amp was cool as a cucumber which is the one i'm worried about.  i think the speaker amp (300.4) is too small anyway so if blows up, then so be it and time to upgrade.  i've been driving it with the cover off and it stays cool enough i think.  always have the windows down anyway since there is no more a/c

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Yea the other amp was cool. So it would be odd that in 2-5 mins of having the system running it got warm

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i think the alt wire was causing the amp to heat up I bet now that the wire is fixed the amp wont heat up as much

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4 hours ago, ttocs said:

Alt wire?  Exactly what is the alt wire and how does it cause the amp to heat up?

I’m glad I’m not the only ex-installer who doesn’t know what the alt wire is!!  Lol

 

power, ground, remote,  and speaker wires is all I remember. Maybe we’re just too old Scott and not up to date with today’s lingo!!  🤣 

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alt as in alternator.  the wire that the end fell off of even though i swear it was crimped nice and tight.

 

on other news, i switched out the ignition switch at the suggestion of @Yeahloh95 as the cause of the mysterious and random stutter bullshit it does.  the previous owner had installed this ghetto alarm system that was not installed properly (all the wires were just stripped and twisted together, never actually connected or soldered).  i pulled that thing out while i was in there.  still have to fix a line that goes over to the drivers side door for the locking feature but not like it's a big deal. 

 

however, i did find this nonsense that i cut out and replaced:

20180615_134115

 

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Not sure how that wire would cause the amp to heat up. 

 

There is actually a wire splice called a military splice where you do not use solder or connectors that was actually recommended for a while by some of the bigger alarm manf.   Your supposed to strip a 1/4" off, separate or poke a hole through the wire strands that show and then you stick your wire through the hole and then wrap it around the stripped wire.  Just a piece of tape for insulation and then put a wire tie either just above where the wires meet, or above all the wires you are splicing into the harness and it actually makes for a fairly secure connection.  

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I always used the military splice but I added solder. It always made for the cleanest and strongest bonds.

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well it seems those military splices might have been the root of my stuttering problem.  it was an utter shitshow in there.  i pulled it all out and seems to be running great. the only problem right now is that it doesn't want to start when turning the key.  It's almost like the brand new ignition switch is bad or something.  if you move the column up and down, it will fire.  going to pull it apart again one night this week and look into the wiring again.  perhaps put my old ignition switch back in and test.

 

it was borderline not going to go to the AM show on saturday but i said screw it and brought it.  thankfully i did because i took home Best in Class 94-98!

20180616_162614

 

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well back when I installed I only soldered but that was just back in 1991 so maybe I have been doing this a while ??? Ryan's wiring was a joke and I am so glad he got that crap out of there .

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Deadener is a bitch aint it? LOL That audio install is looking clean! Keep it going man!

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messed with the wiring sunday morning a bit.  turn the key and wiggled a wire at a time going to the ignition switch.  found the culprit.  It was one of the wires that alarm was spliced into.  cut out the section and put in a new bit of wire.  also took back out the ignition switch and put dielectric grease on all the contacts to make sure they are good.  i accidentally popped a fuse when i doing it by grounding out my strippers to the dash metal....

 

go to test it and the key gets stuck in the ignition.  like really stuck.  won't turn, won't come out.  steering wheel turning doesn't do anything, the lock level doesn't help.  eventually sprayed in some wd40 to hopefully loosen up the cylinder.  and then this happened...

20180624_105138

 

damn thing just pulled right out.  so now i got to get a new cylinder set.  why can't it just be one thing...i fix one stupid little thing, but in doing so, another stupid little thing happens.

 

seems like my best option is to get this set:

https://www.americanmuscle.com/black-lock-set-9495.html

it has the ignition and door keys to match.  the only downside is the trunk wouldn't match.  not the end of the world, but better than having a singular ignition key and another for the rest of the car.

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glad you found the problem that is where I thought it was

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remains to be seen Troy.  who knows with this damn thing.  i'll  put the new cylinder in and the steering shaft will fall off....

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i think you are near the end of this set of problems , some of those parts were just wore out

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forgot i never updated this.  i got a new cylinder and after fighting with it for a while, finally got it installed.  ended up that the new ignition switch i had bought got messed up trying to get the old key out.  swapped back in my stock one and it's all been working like a champ.  i can't say this completely solved my stuttering problem, but it's like 99% solved.  the one wire is a little loose in the connector and not sure what i can really do about it short of splicing in a whole new harness.

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and a recent picture that i'm proud of

IMG_20180729_151623_767

 

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On 8/1/2018 at 11:04 AM, Prokiller said:

and a recent picture that i'm proud of

IMG_20180729_151623_767

 

 

🤤🤤🤤

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i drove it into work today.  now having the 18, i really think i need to switch to a hydroboost setup.  the brakes stop sure enough, but you have to really hammer it down.  the 18 has a firm pedal feel that is more confident (perhaps thats as good a word as any to use) that this car is currently lacking.  i'm thinking about making that my winter project.  it will be needed anyway down the line when i swap in the coyote as the stock setup won't fit.  get junkyard 99-04 setup and the MM kit.  they say it's only for a fox, but i have a mail out to them now to see what they say about the sn95 application. 

 

and a pic because why not

20180920_074815

 

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glad to see it out an about , next thing you will want is electric steering lol

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forgot to update this with MM feedback.  a 99-04 setup won't work on the sn95.  nor will their kit as the fox holes are completely different.  their recommendation is to get a 96-98 cobra hydroboost as it will just swap right in.  so now i'm on the look out for that.  

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yayyyy coyote swaps! these damn 18's doing bad things to us SN guys 

  • Haha 1

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am I wrong ? but the 18 doesn't have hydroboost  does it ???

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