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95riosnake

Converting 94-95 Power Steering Lines to PTFE Braided Stainless/AN Fittings

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I started writing this all out in a PM to Chris (psychorugby), then realized I may as well share this with everyone.

Parts List:

Derale 13309 Power Steering cooler (has -6an inlet/outlet fittings for easy connection to AN hose ends)
http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/13309/10002/-1

Maximum Motorsports ST-73 Power Steering Fitting Kit, Mustang steering rack to AN hose, 1979-04
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1001

Then from ANFittingsdirect.com

1 x AN to NPT Adapter, -6AN to 16mm x 1.5 Blue (This fitting is half of the custom fitting described in Note A below)
1 x Stainless Steel Line 135° Adapter, -6 AN Red/Blue (This one threads onto the NPT adapter above, see Note A below)
2 x Stainless Steel Line 45° Adapter, -6 AN Red/Blue (these connect to the MM steering rack fittings)
2 x Stainless Steel Line 90° Adapter, -6 AN Red/Blue (these connect to the inlet/outlet of the power steering cooler)
10 feet PTFE Braided Stainless Steel Lines, -6 AN
1 x AN to Barbed Fitting Adapter, -6 AN to 10mm Blue (This attaches to the rubber return hose on the back of the PS pump, see Note B below)
1 x Stainless Steel Line Straight Adapter, -6 AN Red/Blue (This threads onto the above barbed fitting adapter)
1 x AN Lines and Fittings Pressure Test Kit: -6AN (this lets you test your lines for leaks before installing them, using an air compressor and soap/water)
Assortment of O-Rings
Unibit
1/2" washer

(as you can see I went with the classic red/blue for my fittings, but they also have all black, all silver, and gold/blue)

Note A) Here is the process I followed for making the custom fitting to adapt to the power steering pump on the pressure side. I didn't think to take pictures when I made mine, so the following few pictures are from @kbscobravert from corral.net. He is the one who came up with this solution.

An assortment of metric O-rings, 1/2" washers, a unibit, and the -6AN to 1/2" NPT adapter fitting

20120124_205817.jpg

Use the Uni-Bit to enlarge the hole in the 1/2" washer until it fits over the NPT side of the AN/NPT adapter fitting. The Uni-Bit will actually put a nice chamfer on the hole of the washer for the O-ring to crush into when you tighten the fitting onto the factory pump fitting. Be sure to remove any burrs or sharp edges from drilling out the hole.

20120124_205858.jpg

Here you can see how the O-ring crushes into the chamfer.

20120124_205458.jpg

And installed

20120124_210324.jpg

20120124_213810.jpg

The above method worked perfectly, I've had absolutely no problems, it hasn't leaked one drip.

Note B) For the return side of the pump, you'll be cutting the stock rubber return hose an inch or two below where it bends. Then you'll just insert the barbed adapter fitting listed above followed by a small hose clamp. Unfortunately there's no way to fully convert this connection to AN because the return connection of the pump is a plastic nipple with the rubber hose pushed over it. The return line coming back from the rack up to the back of the power steering pump is low pressure, so this barbed adapter is more than adequate.

My pictures:

Derale cooler in the mounting bracket I made for it

img3658ee.jpg

High pressure fitting coming out of the PS pump

img0646wn.jpg

MM adapter fittings installed in rack

img3732g.jpg

Lines running to rack, showing the 45° fittings
img3749de.jpg

I don't seem to have a picture of the low pressure return side of the pump, it's buried under my blower and power pipe. I will try to get a picture of it soon.

How to Assemble PTFE Hose Ends

PTFE is a little different animal than your traditional rubber-lined braided stainless hose. Here is a step-by step assembly of the hoses taken from ANFittingsdirect.com

1. The fittings are a three-piece design. Properly installed, the stainless steel braids are gripped by the fitting; do not trim down the stainless steel.

ss_install_1.jpg

2. Slide the outside of the fitting over the stainless steel line.

3. Carefully feather out the stainless steel braiding and insert the PTFE line into the middle part of the fitting. The PTFE line must slide all the way down into the middle part of the fitting. The edge of the PTFE line should protrude approximately 1/8" from the middle part of the fitting, so that it can be opened up and gripped against the top part of the fitting.

ss_install_2.jpg

4. Slide the end of the fitting through the middle part of the fitting, all the way into the PTFE line. You'll notice the PTFE line being opened up by the top part of the fitting, which helps it seal in the third place when you tighten the fitting.

ss_install_3.jpg

5. Be careful not to scratch the finish on the fitting when tightening. They make special wrenches for this, but we prefer an old rag wrapped around the fitting and a regular wrench.

ss_install_4.jpg

Edited by 95riosnake
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I'll find some completed pics of the lines from my build thread and add them to the OP tomorrow :thumb:

And glad I could help! I can't even count how many times I've been asked how I converted the power steering lines to braided stainless so it's about time I put together a write-up.

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Just put all this in my shopping cart... works out to about $175, plus the o-rings, washers, and unibit. The Derale power steering cooler is about $2 more at Summit than Jegs, but shipping is usually cheaper if not free at Summit.

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I haven't gotten around to doing the lower radiator hose yet, but I do have the parts when I feel like doing it. My upper radiator hose is 20an so I will be using the same for the lower when I get around to it.

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dang 20 is big. the upper looks awesome. would love to see some pictures or a write up when you decide to do the lower. I assume you will have the fitting welded right to the water pump?

Yea and another fitting will be welded to the lower inlet of the radiator. Just haven't felt like messing with it lol. Maybe over the winter...trying my best right now to get it out of the garage for a cruise before the snow falls again lol.

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Bumping this. @95riosnake, any tips or tricks to get these fittings together? In having a hell of a time

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

Ended up talking with Bryan via text yesterday but figured I'd respond here too for future reference for others. He was having a hard time getting the brass compression collar to slip over the teflon liner. What I did was use an x-acto blade to cut the end of the teflon at a bit of an angle to give it a chamfer and help the collar slide over. One other tip is to use a fitting assembly lube ( Earl's 184004ERL is what I used) on the male end of the hose end that goes into the teflon. If the fitting seems to be threading together with too much resistance, back it off and try again, you WILL strip the threads and be face palming.

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haha, my pics look like CHIT compared to yours. :D

 

Did you follow my washer and O-ring for the pump also? 

 

Looks great.

 

Yea that's where I used it, for the pressure/feed port on the side of the pump. On the rear I just used a barbed fitting and a hose clamp since it's a low pressure line on the return side.

 

The fitting at the pump is actually  16mm x 1.5.

 

Here is the Russel fitting I used.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/rus-670530

 

Edited :2thumb: It had been a while since I did it when I wrote this up.

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dan I hate you and all your oober expensive write ups that's going to contribute to either me going broke or getting divorced.......or both!!!!

 

P.s. not really, you know we all love this stuff!!!!   permission granted to carry on!!!!!    :D

 

Haha, my bad lol. I figured having threads like these would save a lot of headache and wasted time/money for anyone trying to do this stuff in the future. I know that until I ran across KB's solution, I had been researching for days trying to figure out all the specifics.

 

 

is it possible to use the factory cooler?

 

Yes it is, I believe @kbscobravert was using the stock piece at first, he can probably elaborate on how he adapted it. Pretty sure he used hard tube adapters similar to how we adapt braided fuel lines to our hard lines at the firewall. I'm sure he'll chime in soon.

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Yes it is, I believe @kbscobravert was using the stock piece at first, he can probably elaborate on how he adapted it. Pretty sure he used hard tube adapters similar to how we adapt braided fuel lines to our hard lines at the firewall. I'm sure he'll chime in soon.

I started with a modified stock unit.  Cut the ends, flared them with -6 tube nuts and tube sleeves, added a -6/-6 male/male union and it was good to go.

 

20120128_132021.jpg

20120128_132158.jpg

 

In the end, I used a different cooler though.

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Great thread!

 

For anyone interested, I've not completed the mod but I have managed to accumulate probably 95% of the information needed to do this on a 4V car.  All I'm lacking is one fitting size on the 96-98 booster that no one seems to know what it is, and I've not had the interest/initiative to take mine apart and size it yet.  I'm hopeful I can find a junk booster somewhere and just size it off of that rather than take my car apart and have it down for any extended period of time.

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Great thread!

 

For anyone interested, I've not completed the mod but I have managed to accumulate probably 95% of the information needed to do this on a 4V car.  All I'm lacking is one fitting size on the 96-98 booster that no one seems to know what it is, and I've not had the interest/initiative to take mine apart and size it yet.  I'm hopeful I can find a junk booster somewhere and just size it off of that rather than take my car apart and have it down for any extended period of time.

I have one out of a 96 gt. believe it would be the same?

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im sure this has been covered. however why the need for the PTFE and not just regular AN line?

 

Regular rubber-lined AN lines/fittings aren't suited for the high pressure of power steering. Trust me if they were I would have done regular AN because I can assemble a regular AN line in a few minutes. Teflon lined AN fittings are a bit trickier.

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interesting set up for the low pressure return. does that just go back into plastic hose and then into rubber? i assume the connection is under the taped over hose clamp

goes to aluminum tubing then to rubber. The connection is usually covered by a heat sleeve so you don't see my janky tape.
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