ttocs Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 I had some people mention that they were interested in this so I decided to make a post separate from my build so it would be easier to find later. I put in the paint/body well because it is but if ya want it in the projects section have at it! I am going to smooth my shinoda chin spoiler into the stock bumper so it all looks like one piece the same way I did the S281 into my trunk lid. First you have to mach up the chin spoiler to make sure its in the right place. I just used 6-8 strips of masking tape to hold it temporarily in place and then drilled 7 holes across the bottom through the chin and stock bumper for screws. After I drilled each hole I used large nails to keep it in position and make sure the holes were lines up. Next I used masking tape on the bumper above the chin, and on the chin just below the joint so I could keep the panel bonding adhesive from getting into places I didn't want it. The chin spoiler had been painted/polished before so I used a wire brush on my die grinder to rough up the smooth surface and then some 220 grit just to make sure all the polish was off of it where I wanted it to bond to the bumper. The bumper had been media blasted prior too this so a light scuff and it was ready. Finally I put a generous bead of 3M panel bonding adhesive on the chin spoiler, and then again used the nails to line up the mounting holes as well as to basically pin it in place. Once I had it in the correct location I pulled out the nails one at a time and replaced them with screws to hold it tight. Finally I put a bead of adhesive on the joint of the two and then smoothed it out and pulled the tape off. I am letting that cure over night and tomorrow starts the part everyone loves fill/sand/repeat...... While I am doing this I am going to fill the flat spot for the license plate since I don't need it. I am also considering moving the horse down to that area.1.) smooth it in so that it just blends into the bumper2.) cut out around the horse 1/16-1/8", mount it to a chrome piece that would mount to the back of the bumper so the horse would be flush with the bumper.3.) same cut as #2 but mounted to a piece of chrome vinyl back plexi. It would look the same as #2 except I could like up the plexi which would show the outline of the horse. Not something I would drive around with just something for the people at night shows that like lights. Sorry for the crappy pic. I was just happy to get the fenders on and lined up as well as the bumper and the adhesive on to set over night. By the time I cleaned up it was almost dark and only had my phone. Will get better pics tomorrow, stomach allowing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 this should be pretty fn sick. you are molding it in to the bumper right? getting rid if the seam? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Can't wait to see progress of the thread man! I say go one and just smooth out the flat section of the bumper. I don't see how moving the mustang down to that point wouldnt look tacky.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 that's a confusing post det... But started filling the gap today. That is a fiberglass reinforced bondo I am using as it is stronger then standard bondo. Again taped off the areas I did not want the bondo and then a quick sand/clean and slap it in there. I am also filling a small seam that was between the side exhaust skirts and the cars body and smoothing out the antenna hole. just waiting for it to dry and then the dust making shall begin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Lol I'm saying for the flat area for the license plate. Just smooth it. Don't put the running horse on them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Right I saw that first, but the 2nd part that you don't see how moving it down wouldn't look tacky. I kinda think with the chin and the logo down further that it would just give the impression it was even closer to the ground, Dunno... I am not sold on it either which is why I was asking. Part of me says yes and part no, bigger part no though.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mavisky Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 I've always wanted to see the front bumper "built-up" to keep the body lines going across instead of being interrupted by the front plate spot, especially since I live in a state without front plates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9838stang Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 gunna look sick man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 This should turn out pretty slick, I like where you're going with this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prokiller Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 I am going to smooth my shinoda chin spoiler into the stock bumper so it all looks like one piece the same way I did the S281 into my trunk lid. wait wait wait...when did you shave the trunk/smooth in a s281? where is that progress at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 just curious, you masked off where you dont want the bondo, but you are smoothing in the chin spoiler to the bumper. you are just giving yourself more work by creating an edge that you will have to sand down flush and make sure there are no waves in it, when you could have just laid the bondo and got it halfway closer while spreading it. When you go to remove the tape how do you plan on getting a clean edge when the tape is removed after the bondo has hardened, or did you pull the tape while the bondo was still wet? i think you would have been better off using seam sealer/panel bonding adhesive and then the kitty hair fiberglass filler with a smooth layer of bondo to smooth it all out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted January 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 wait wait wait...when did you shave the trunk/smooth in a s281? where is that progress at? Yessir I smoothed in the s281, 3rd tail light as well as the rear laser shifter and relocated the keyhole behind the license plate. Nice and smooth. It starts on page 2 of my rebuildhttp://www.sn95source.com/topic/3057-the-momstangs-rebuild/just curious, you masked off where you dont want the bondo, but you are smoothing in the chin spoiler to the bumper. you are just giving yourself more work by creating an edge that you will have to sand down flush and make sure there are no waves in it, when you could have just laid the bondo and got it halfway closer while spreading it. When you go to remove the tape how do you plan on getting a clean edge when the tape is removed after the bondo has hardened, or did you pull the tape while the bondo was still wet? i think you would have been better off using seam sealer/panel bonding adhesive and then the kitty hair fiberglass filler with a smooth layer of bondo to smooth it all out. If you keep the edges thin enough like you want too you can just pull the tape up and the bondo on top of it. Sometimes you need too sand down a little and yes when it does come off it leaves an edge. A nice clean edge like that, again that is hopefully not too thick, sands down pretty quick either by hand or with a DA. It saves a lot of time trying to keep it off of areas you don't want it as well as sanding it off of the areas it gets onto. This was just the initial layer to fill the gap and there will be at least one more layer of bondoglass(drying now) that is also thin to even it all out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted January 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Today was the bottom half of the first, and the top half of the 2nd inning of the fill/sand/repeat game now. Sanded down yesterdays layer and then got ready for a light 2nd layer. I wanted the front corner to have a little more of a curve too it so that is why the tape is there. The black bumper is the plastic part exposed from media blasting, the green layer under it is the bondoglass filling the seam, and under it is either the green paint from the chin or the white gelcoat that is under it from sanding through the paint. Here I put another light skim-coat of bondo glass a little wider over the seam. This was mainly to fill any small holes/gaps but it is also to help cover any edge that was not sanded smooth. Tomorrow the bottom half of the 2nd inning of sanding and probably a light weight filler for any really small holes prior to priming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted January 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 first coat of primer is on it really just to help find the last few low spots and pin holes. Hope to get it straight tomorrow stomach allowing. forgive the dust been makin lotsa lotsa dust this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 Looking good Scott! You are putting some serious work into the whip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted January 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 Thanks I still have a few surprises planned that will take a little more time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted January 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 pretty much got the chin smoothed in. Still need to repair a small spot on the bumper by the pass light(need to get to the back) and some light blocking but its looking good imo. I don't think it sticks out all that bad. This is with the front aired up so once it is dropped it should look pretty cool IMO> This is now ready for the rest of the bumper to be primed, blocked and then painted. Might be a little while till I move on to priming the car but I will update this when I paint it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnyxCobra Posted January 20, 2014 Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 hmmm damn that looks pretty flawless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted January 20, 2014 Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 Man I love how that turned out!! Really looks much better this way than it did as two pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copmagnet Posted January 20, 2014 Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 I like it! I always wanted to fill my license plate hole but was always scared the filler would start cracking or something, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted January 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 I like it! I always wanted to fill my license plate hole but was always scared the filler would start cracking or something, I did the build up in layers over a few days hoping that on a blasted bumper that it will be ok but it is a concern of mine and time will tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 awesome man!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
