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LWARRIOR1016

Rio Red 98 GT Build

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Alrighty, so Ive got a pretty long backstory with this thing. Ill try to keep it short and sweet with a bunch of pictures. Ill happily answer any questions too!

 

On to the story. I came home from my first tour in Afghanistan in 2011, around March time. I bought my first mustang in august. It was a 2002 GT. Bought it from a shady car lot, needed tires, clutch, heater core, all kinds of crap but it looked cool and sounded great and it was a mustang. Car came with a 30 day drivetrain warranty. When I found out it needed a clutch I took it back to the guy and it sat at his shop for 2 weeks. I finally said F**K you and took the car back and did my own clutch. Then the 32nd day of owning it the car overheated and shut off. I let it cool down and started it back up to find out it was tapping/rattling something awful. Took it home, pulled the engine, found out the intake manifold was cracked, did a top end rebuild because I thought it was a valve related issue. That meant brand new loaded heads with cams and a new intake manifold. Put it together and to my surprise at the time it still tapped just as loud. I got angry, real angry. So to prevent me from torching the car in my field I traded it to my neighbor for a 1994 F150 that had 5k worth of paint. Then I found a guy that had my current GT and needed a truck. He had beaten, abused, and neglected this car, but it was a mustang and it had potential. So I traded my F150 for this 98 GT.

 

Then came my 98. I don't have any pictures of the day I got it but at this point I had put the bullitt wheels and headlights on it.

 

As everyone knows, the car bone stock was slug. I was on the interstate one night and i got outrun by a 2005 chevy malibu, I couldn't have that so I put a pi intake, accufab tb/plenum, pullies, did a 5 speed swap, and put 3.73's in the rear. At the time it was enough but that changed quickly. So I put in Bullet racing stage 2 cams, mishimoto aluminum radiator, 180 t-stat, and tuned it all with a diablosport predator.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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After the car was setup this way it was my D/D for a few months. Then I started preparing for my 2nd tour in Afghanistan. While I was gone I ordered a few parts for it. It got a new wiper cowl, and new carpet for clean up. I also decided it was time to lower it, so I got a set of lowering spring for a 1.5" drop all around, got upr spherical/adjustable upper and lower control arms, steeda bump steer kit, poly bushings for front control arms and steering rack, and a set of shark c/c plates. While I was gone I also decided to change the sound some so I took out the slp loudmouth I resonators and I welded in some magnaflow chambered muffler (best move I ever made). The magnaflows are much better in my opinion.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Blackmage said:

RIP thread

 

No shit! I was in the process of moving it over here from the other forum and then the photobucket fiasco happened. Im trying to get all my pictures sorted out in flickr so I can make this thing happen.

 

Long story short, I cammed it, drove it, oil pump failed, pulled it built it 12:1 compression and built a megasquirt for it.  Took it to the track and blew up the clutch. Made 368 rwhp and blew it up on the dyno. Tore it down again and built a 13:1 compression teksid block with a 4r70w automatic and now I am doing paint work.

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Ok, so Im basically going to photobomb this thread. Ill post some pictures from the beginning of the build but it will not be everything. Just enough to get this thread going. Ive still been kind of upset about losing my thread, until I found out there are extensions to use for firefox and chrome that let you see photobucket pictures! Anyway, here we go.

 

It was setup with npi heads, stage 2 bullet cams, pi intake, t45 swap, 3.73 gears, upr upper and lower control arms, pypes x and slp loudmouth.

Then I had oil pressure issues and found out the timing chain guide dowel fell out of the block and let the chain get slack in it, that chewed up the front cover and sent aluminum through everything and clogged the oil pump. I parked it at a buddys house out in the woods and pulled the engine. Then decided to pull the car down to my shop and start working on it.

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What we started with

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I tried to clean it, but the paint kept wiping off. So I decided to strip it and repaint

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Thats all for the moment, Ill follow up later.

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Ok, I lost a bunch of pictures but Im going to pickup where I can and keep this going from here. I built a megasquirt stand alone for the car and got it wired in. That was definitely an adventure. I built an iron block, pi head 2v with 12:1 compression and comp 278 cams, had a built t45 behind it. It ran good and made 368rwhp. I took it to the track once and blew the clutch up, replaced the clutch and blew the engine up on the dyno.

 

After all that, I decided to build a teksid block that I had been sitting on for a while and install a 4r70w behind it this go around. Thats where we will pick up, because those are the pictures I have. Its been a wild adventure to say the least, and Im sorry that some of you guys missed it. You will be able to join me on the next part of the journey that will be equally as wild. I will not disappoint!

 

Got the teksid bored .02" and the deck shaved .012.

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So at this point we had a whole pile of parts, its time to build!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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21 minutes ago, Prokiller said:

able to salvage anything off the old setup?  

It ate up a bunch of rod bearings and tore up the crank. The oil pump wasnt keeping up with the 8k rpm it was spinning lol. Two rods were wrecked, the pistons were still good though. I just ended up building a whole second engine, the only thing I reused was the cams and valve springs.

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Im such a slack ass, Im going to flood this thing with pictures. Ill add some comments.

 

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Ok. So then it went back in the car. This setup was 13:1, forged pistons with a taller compression height that stuck them above the deck .010". Ported 2012 pi head with ford gt followers and lash adjusters, it kept the comp 278 cams. Going behind it is the original 4r70w that came with the car. I rebuilt the 4r70 with a couple hardened parts and stuck a 3600 stall in it.

 

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Shifter relocation plate for a 99+ center console

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Stuck the trans on and had to "clearance" the floor for the shift bracket to bolt up and have access to the range switch if it needed to be changed. Not my finest work, but it works.

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Then I moved to wiring. This is the trans controller. It a Microsquirt V3 that communicates with the Megasquirt running the engine so they can share data.

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Got the trans wired up and moved on to my coil pack setup. I wanted it under the intake and the old bracket I made wasnt going to work so I found some scraps at the shop and threw this together.

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Got that all buttoned up and did a compression check to make sure the cams were firing even.

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That was the first run with the new engine.

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These couple videos are old, but they are right after the megasquirt install with the iron block 12:1 engine.

 

 

This was filmed by a friend who still uses a potato to take pictures.

 

This was after getting it tuned and driving it some. Just a quick run down of how it was all working.

 

And, a good cold idle video

 

 

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Ok, so I had the aluminum engine/automatic combo in there for a little bit and decided to start doing body work. 

 

I started picking out dents and getting those fixed up with some fine filler. 

Here is what I started with 

 

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After sanding, I put down etch primer. 

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Then urethane primer

 

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And more wet sanding 

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I messed up my first paint job on this thing and had to start over, so I went and borrowed the neighbor shops booth to do it better this time. 

Got the base down. 

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Then clear 

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Sanded and painted gas tank cover. 

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Primer sealer down 

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Got it all put together and finally took it home. 

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The kids loved it 

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Here is the tank cover 

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Here, I was getting the a/c up to snuff. 

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And just how she rolled for a while 

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Until this was delivered 

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Got the engine pulled out. 

 

Then set the coyote in there there to check clearances. 

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the stock coyote headers hit everywhere and the oil pan hit the upr k member. So I had to modify the pan. I cut it out and rolled up a piece of sheet metal and welded it in. 

 

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The headers were a whole different story. There are a bunch of swap headers but everything is made to go around a standard transmission, nobody makes headers to fit around an automatic trans, and nobody wanted to build them. A good friend informed me that the tube spacing between a 2v and the coyote is the same. I had a set of 2v long tubes laying around so I went to work. 

 

Cut the flange off the 2v headers 

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Cut the flange off the coyote headers 

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Welded the coyote flange to the 2v headers

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After that, they fit like a glove and cleared everything 

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I also didnt like like the way the 94-98 transmission crossmember got in the way of the exhaust so I got a junkyard to cut me out the floor of a 99-04 car so I could weld the newer style trans crossmember mounts in. 

 

Drilled the spot welds out for the old mounts 

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Newer mounts welded in 

 

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stifflers 99-04 crossmember 

 

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i had no clue that the headers were that close.  amazing that was all you had to do to make them fit in there.  if its really that simple, why has no one made them?  and i'm not doubting you, just amazed that an aftermarket company hasn't done it.

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4 minutes ago, Prokiller said:

i had no clue that the headers were that close.  amazing that was all you had to do to make them fit in there.  if its really that simple, why has no one made them?  and i'm not doubting you, just amazed that an aftermarket company hasn't done it.

 

I honestly have no clue. I called Kooks and American Racing Headers and they both flat out told me NO. Not interested. They didn’t even give me some huge number that was stupid, just said no. 

 

96black54 is the one that told me the tube spacing was the same. And since the mounts, accessories, and transmission are all interchanceable between 2v, 4v, and coyote, the headers already fit around everything in the car. 

 

What i I did was cut the flange off the long tube and stuck them up in the car, then positioned the header exactly where I wanted it and where it wouldn’t touch anything, then had a buddy measure the distance from the tube to the head at each cylinder. Then I cut the coyote flange off at the distances that we measure (notice in the picture that the coyote flange has different length tubes at each cut). Then I bolted the flange to the head, positioned the header in the car and made sure everything was still kosher, then tack welded them up and pulled it back out to finish welding. I was actually really easy to accomplish. 

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I bet you could order a set of long tubes for a 2v without head flanges and then order blank coyote head flanges and weld them up. That would be the easiest thing to do. 

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I pulled the engine back out of the car after making sure the headers and oil pan were good to go.  I ordered a 2018 intake, new timing cover, oil cooler delete, boundary billet oil pump, boss timing chain tensioners, oil squirter delete, mmr imrc block off plates, and secondary timing chain guide flip bracket. 

 

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After all the paint and assembly, I got the engine installed in the car. Had to take intermission from the mustang and build the engine for the grandpa car. 

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Then had to move on to the fuel system. Got an aeromotive return style regulator with -6an fittings and stainless braided hoses. 

 

 

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So I opted for the front of the strut tower. I kept stock hard lines up to the bay and then used some russel fittings to convert to a/n. 

Future reference, if you use the russel fittings to go on the hard line, the 1/4 fitting works but the 5/16 fitting does not. These are the screw together type. The nut that goes on the hard line is too bug to fit the line, so it had to be modified. 

This is after modification, but you see the larger one is taller. I had to mill the center of it out so that it was the same thickness in the center was the same as the 1/4" fitting. Just put it in the drill press and made it happen. 

 

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Then started wiring 

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Engine harness mostly completed

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Then I had to pull the car side harness out and begin running my new ecu harnesses. 

 

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Old engine harness and ecu harness laid out, ready for work. 

 

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New harnesses in place, and making connections. 

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I got that harness finished up, but cannot seem to get my pictures loaded to flickr. Ill see if I can direct upload them here. 

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Got connectors on the quad spark modules, and soldered the wires to the dual Vr conditioner that changes the exhaust cam signal from a/c to square wave so it doesn’t burn up the ecu. 

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Got this done monday. I had to make it happen by the end of the year. This was the actual first start. You can hear the engine kind of rattling until it gets oil pressure to the lash adjusters and everything. Its got the new oil pump and the engine has been sitting for 6 months or so. 

 

 

 

 

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Old Thread Bump! @LWARRIOR1016 did you keep any of the coyote accessories where they originally laid? Alternator, ac compressor? I think I saw you deleted or put a remote oil filter housing on it too right?

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3 hours ago, Det_Riot said:

Old Thread Bump! @LWARRIOR1016 did you keep any of the coyote accessories where they originally laid? Alternator, ac compressor? I think I saw you deleted or put a remote oil filter housing on it too right?

I kept the a/c and alternator in the stock coyote location. I’m currently using the stock coyote oil filter housing with a motorcraft filter but it’s going to hit the swap bar so it will be relocated eventually. 

 

Have to remember that I don’t have power steering or brakes so that allows me to keep the alternator down low. 

 

 

 

I promise ill have updates soon. I had to go up to Fort Eustis, Virginia for a 3 month school. I’ll be getting back at it when I get home. 

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Right on man! Getting stuff lined up for the ole sexual teal so just trying to do my research ahead of time!

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The updates are sitting in my driveway. I haven’t worked on the Mustang since getting home from Virginia. I did pick up a couple goodies from some awesome people though. 

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I havent worked on the car lately because Ive been very busy, but I did test fit the CF T1 and I must say that it looks amazing! I cannot wait to get it bolted down. I will be getting back to work on it very soon though.

 

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