White95 Posted August 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2019 46 minutes ago, ThomasW said: If he’d put the T1 back on, he’d have moat CF black. Lol It’s chillin in the attic; safe and sound until further notice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted August 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2019 I might paint my S351 wing black and put it back on for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted August 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2019 Couple of parts on order to finish up the loose ends: 1. 06-09 Fusion fan module with pigtail included: GATES FCM117K After talking with the guys on the Mod Motor w/ Holley EFI FB group, the decision to use a C6 fan controller triggered by the HEFI has been made. The Ford Contour version comes with the pigtail and is basically the same thing. This is, essentially, what I’ll be doing: http://www.chicagolandmustang.com/f...EFI-PWM-Fan-Control-with-Contour-Fan-Write-Up 2. Holley MAP sensor bracket PN-9902-104 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted August 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2019 Didn’t really do much today since it was the wife’s birthday but I did take a little time to re-route the Holley wiring. It really cleaned things up some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted August 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2019 This round of wiring was to complete the AC harness and to restore power to the passenger turn signal and running light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted August 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2019 1 hour ago, Evilcw311 said: Get some sun on those pale arse chicken legs!!!!!!! On a more serious note, it’s he wiring job is looking good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk For real! They’re normally hidden behind FRC pants 😆 Still a long way to go with the wiring but I’m trying to make it as clean as possible at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2019 (edited) More progress in the wiring! It just mostly needs to be secured to the body at this point. Next, I need to wire the relay for the fuel pump and I should be able to start the engine. Well, after a fuel system leak test and loading the start tune. After I confirm it doesn't go POW TING CLANK BOOM, I'll wire the fan controller and focus on other areas. Oh, and I sold the Whipple and related parts... Edited September 23, 2019 by White95 fixing pictures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2019 ...but i bought a Gen 2 Coyote engine for this car! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 This one actually made it to the car this time!! Installed the Holley digital dash (553-106) and the Tick Performance fuel level harness. Just need to connect +12v power, ground it, connect it to the HP ECU and the fuel level sender. Ok.. Function tested the electrical system and didn’t smoke anything! I’m going to ditch the aluminum battery box for a plastic version and then I’ll be able to finalize that. Also, wired in the 12v charger port in the center console. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 (edited) After sorting through some wiring I dicked up, things went well. It wasn’t bad but I had chosen the wrong contact in the ignition switch. Instead of the ECU powering up in the run position, it came on when you twisted the key to start. :facepalm: So, I was holding the key forward to take the picture last night. This also was an easy way to confirm I had the starter relay wiring correct. Easy fix and afterward was able to update my ECU firmware from V1 to V4. How close am I you ask? Wire up the fuel pump relay, wire the engine fan, connect the MAP sensor to a vacuum source, connect the o2 sensor, introduce fuel, introduce coolant, leak test the fuel system, install a fresh battery and cowabunga!!! Pending all of the aforementioned and a pre-start check list, this baby is FINALLY ready to run! There’s also this.....mess. I’ve decided to switch to a plastic Moroso box. Why? Sparks. Sparks flew today while disconnecting the hot lead and I don’t like sparks!! The aluminum has to go! Edited September 23, 2019 by White95 fixing pictures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prokiller Posted September 23, 2019 Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 am i the only one who can't see any of the pictures on like the last 4 posts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 2 minutes ago, Prokiller said: am i the only one who can't see any of the pictures on like the last 4 posts? They work fine for me? I've been copying and pasting from the other forum but I'll try to direct upload them. Can you see this picture? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators LWARRIOR1016 Posted September 23, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 I care about the coffee mug........ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prokiller Posted September 23, 2019 Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 i can indeed see the coffee mug 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Psychorugby Posted September 23, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 20 minutes ago, Prokiller said: am i the only one who can't see any of the pictures on like the last 4 posts? No you are not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 4 minutes ago, Prokiller said: i can indeed see the coffee mug ok, i'll work on the rest of the pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 23 minutes ago, Psychorugby said: No you are not. @Prokiller How about now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prokiller Posted September 23, 2019 Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 yup i can see all the pics now! dash pack looks really good in there. and what's the deal with the coyote? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 On 9/23/2019 at 10:53 AM, Prokiller said: yup i can see all the pics now! dash pack looks really good in there. and what's the deal with the coyote? Thanks! The plan is to sort the car while using the current combo and build the coyote on the side. Probably swap next fall. This will also be controlled by the Holley efi and tuned by Scott Clark @ Real Tuners. Either tuned for E85 or flex fuel. 2017 F150 5.0 22k miles 2018 Mustang GT intake; ported 47# injectors 80 MM TB (throttle cable driven) 15-17 Mustang cams + phasers billet oil pump gears billet crank pulley secondary chain tensioner flip oil cooler delete head cooling mod BBK long tubes BBK x-pipe T56 Magnum Exedy twin disc clutch That’s about it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Psychorugby Posted September 23, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 3 hours ago, White95 said: @Prokiller How about now? Working now! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2019 BUMPED the engine over 💁♂️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted September 25, 2019 Report Share Posted September 25, 2019 make sure its not dropping below 10.5v while cranking or its not happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 7 hours ago, ttocs said: make sure its not dropping below 10.5v while cranking or its not happy. Yeah, modern electronics are grumpy. I’ve had this battery since 2014 and it’s been out of the car since 2016. Was lucky to get 12.1V out of it while it was hooked up to the 1.5A battery tender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 Working on battery box v2.0!! insulated bulkhead fittings: I’m going to cut some ABS plastic (or micarta board) to mount the circuit breaker and distribution block to. That way it’ll be further isolated from the body. I don’t have a spare tire board or any carpet at the moment. Also, built the car side of my engine fan harness. Just need to solder in a fuse holder and it’s ready to rock. Tomorrow I plan to wire the fuel pump relay in and that pretty much means I can start the car. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators LWARRIOR1016 Posted September 27, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted September 27, 2019 I’m super excited about this. I can’t wait to hear it run. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prokiller Posted September 27, 2019 Report Share Posted September 27, 2019 i used the same fuse block on mine and mounted it inside the battery box. but my box was bigger so i had plenty of space to still keep it isolated and away from the battery. i really like the terminal idea on the inside/outside of the box. are you going to put a cover over at least the hot terminal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2019 15 minutes ago, Prokiller said: i used the same fuse block on mine and mounted it inside the battery box. but my box was bigger so i had plenty of space to still keep it isolated and away from the battery. i really like the terminal idea on the inside/outside of the box. are you going to put a cover over at least the hot terminal? I do have plans to cover them both and also the breaker. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted September 27, 2019 Report Share Posted September 27, 2019 I never understood the idea of the metal battery box myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2019 These should suffice. Also, I’ve put the old hood back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2019 On 9/27/2019 at 7:50 AM, LWARRIOR1016 said: I’m super excited about this. I can’t wait to hear it run. Today could be the day! Fan controller mounted and wired. Just need one #8 ring terminal to connect the power lead and one #4 to connect the distribution block to the circuit breaker. Wire in one relay after that and, pending some leak and function testing, it should run. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 Too many fuel leaks to try to run the car. On a brighter note, the fuel system works, LOL. Here’s the preliminary look of my electrical system in the trunk. Some fine tuning and better wire routing for the fuel pump relay will happen as well as the battery terminal covers. I’m also going to upgrade to an AGM battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 Since I have to drop the tank anyway to secure the battery box, I’m going to ditch the stock fuel lines at the same time. Ordered enough hose, fittings, QFS 340lph E85 ready pump and an in-line fuel filter. Just need to settle on a flex fuel sensor now and add that to the mix. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 1 hour ago, Evilcw311 said: Tell me more about this fan controller. I thought the Holley controlled the fan and you just had to run relays from the outputs of the Holley. If that’s not totally correct or if you just chose to go differently please explain. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Short version? It is basically a miniature VFD drive. This controller is triggered by an output signal set to PWM (pulse width modulation) and adjusts fan speed to meet the signaled demand without having to having separate “high speed” and “low speed” relays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted September 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2019 11 hours ago, Evilcw311 said: We shall discuss this more in depth later when the time comes. Right now I gotta crash so I can get up early and go hang out with Mickey Da’Mouse in the morning!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk In short, PWM operates like a switch which constantly cycles on and off, thereby regulating the amount of power the fan or pump motor gains. The PWM system that is used for controlling fans and pumps works with the motor, either getting +12V (full power) or 0V (no power) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted October 1, 2019 Report Share Posted October 1, 2019 I am surprised that you don't understand pwm. Its like an LED driver. You can hook them straight up to a battery and they will light up, or you can use an led driver that flashes the light super fast. fast enough that it looks like its on constantly to you but the time off is both power saved and time less ran for the led. I have my fan hooked straight up to a high current relay on mine and its fine like that but he will use less power since it pulses the motor on/off, but achieves the same speeds/air moved. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted November 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 I've been reworking the fuel system in my car. Your standard return style system: 1] QFS 340 LPH pump 2] Pro-M hanger 3] 6AN Feed/Return, PFTE carbon lined 4] Fore fuel rails 5] Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator Fuel rail install Installed my new fuel rails as a first step in the fuel system revamp. Didn’t have any hardware so I decided to modify some stud/bolts to work. They had captured washers that didn’t fit the rails so I had to create this travesty: So ugly!! In the process I managed to strip the threads in one of the holes. Took all of it apart. Again. After a trip to the hardware store for a M6x1.0 tap and some new hardware I had it all cinched up. Fore fuel rails, stainless fittings and stainless hardware! Since I’m doing this again, I’ll try to clean the wiring up even more than before. Left it here in the middle of pulling the fuel pressure sensor wiring back through the harness since I’ll be using it now. I’m going to replace all of that old hardware for the alternator mount with stainless bolts soon. For about $1.25 per bolt/washer, why not? Bonus Pictures: The location chosen for the AFPR. Tail pipes that aren’t installed but ty-wrapped in place until they get welded up!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted November 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 Great, now I can’t see the pictures LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted November 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 So, this is more what I was going for: The hose I fucked up: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted November 6, 2019 Report Share Posted November 6, 2019 make sure you do a VERY VERY good job of cleaning out all the hoses. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95 Posted November 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2019 They will be removed, flushed and then pressure tested prior to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
