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Brian

Pushrod 5.0 Blocks

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Yeah. I've heard 500 is the limit as well then they split. Some have blocks that for whatever reason can survive past that.

I know there are upgraded blocks you can get. Does anyone know each one in order and their suggested power limits? Also reputable places to purchase them from?

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Main girdles prevent crank walk, which can cause big problems fast. Not really a waste of time or money, I wouldn't pull a stock motor with a stock bottom end to install one because that's pointless but if you're building a motor anyway, the cost of a main girdle is a drop in the bucket compared to the cost of the whole build and installation is not difficult. If you're dropping the cash to build the bottom end it is nice to have the piece of mind. The only downside to a main girdle that I can think of is the stock 94-95 oil pan will not fit anymore, but most people ditch the stock pan with a built motor anyway.

Now if you're just building a mild 306 or something and don't plan on making a lot of power with it, a main girdle isn't really necessary. In my case I am right at the limits of the block so I'm glad I have it down there.

Now on the other hand we have valley girdles, they are a waste of money for sure. They won't stop the block from splitting down the valley, they'll just hold it together more when it happens, lol.

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My buddy's stock bottom end with an fcam, twisted wedge heads, edelbrock EFI intake, 70mm masterpower turbo.. 618 rwhp through a c4 in cincy speeds dyne. Lasted 2 years.. Turned the boost down, sold the car.. Block finally let go after a big shot if nitrous..

Sent from my iPhone

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I will have to search for the thread I found on a different Mustang forum that talked about why they were a waste of time and money.

This post is brought to you by the letters "F" and "U".

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If your hoping for more than 500 reliably, anything more than a cam and intake swap( for a turbo setup) and it is a waste.. For a full built n/a powerhouse stock block is ok I've rarely seen any without stupid amounts of cash being past 425..

But that's just me.. I build my shot to not break the blocks barriers so I can have fun with the kids, enjoy them for a while, and if/when it pops.. It's a cheap replacement. Best combo is to buy a gt40 motor, swap the cam(for sound purposes only in my case lol) big turbo, let it eat!.. N/a car swap the cam, port shit, enjoy 250-290 hp(estimate lol)

Once again just my .02$

Sent from my iPhone

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If your hoping for more than 500 reliably, anything more than a cam and intake swap( for a turbo setup) and it is a waste.. For a full built n/a powerhouse stock block is ok I've rarely seen any without stupid amounts of cash being past 425..

But that's just me.. I build my shot to not break the blocks barriers so I can have fun with the kids, enjoy them for a while, and if/when it pops.. It's a cheap replacement. Best combo is to buy a gt40 motor, swap the cam(for sound purposes only in my case lol) big turbo, let it eat!.. N/a car swap the cam, port shit, enjoy 250-290 hp(estimate lol)

Once again just my .02$

Sent from my iPhone

Is that really all a Cam and P&P intakes and heads does on the pushrod 5.0s? ..are you talking about Crank HP or RWHP?

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Most h/c/i for 5.0 motors(302ci and 306ci), unless you go all out, you will see around 300-325rwhp on the top end, high rpm, streetable; lower side, such as a tfs stage 1, gt40 heads, and gt40/cobra intake, 240-275 rwhp. Now you can go to a 310, 331, 347, etc and you will create more power. I've also seen guys switch to a stand-alone fuel system and gain some power do to the poor EEC-IV that our cars have.

Umm...there's a foxbody year that has stock flat-top hypereutectic pistons that are supposed to be worth a little more than normal blocks.

Now my question is, has anyone half-filled a 302 block to see if it helps the power limits?

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What are the power limits of each of those? Ive heard conflicting things

not sure about the other two but a lot of people are makeing big power with the R blocks. My friend uses a R block in his drag car (the white fox ive posted videos of) they are 4 bolt mains so they can handle a lot more. The mexican block Ive heard is a little bit stronger then the stock block not sure how much but its stronger

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It's hard to put a hard number on it. It has a lot to do with how you make the power and at what rpm. Turbos are more efficient and so forth. My last stock block made just under 500rwhp on nitrous and lasted 10 years and 85,000 miles before the thrust bearing wore out and junked the crank. It did not have a main girdle.

I did a main girdle on this engine, and I'm not sure it was worth it. The girdle does help with higher rpm, but most people don't think it's worth it because you can't turn a stock block that high anyway. I didn't think it was worth it because it ended up costing close to $300 with the special windage tray, and I had to spend a lot of time clearancing the girdle as well as the oil pump. For $700 more I could have had a good used A4 or R block and then put as much nitrous as I wanted on it.

Kurt

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Well if you are doing the stock 3" stroke there is no controversy. The majority of the controversy is over the short bores. Ford shortened the bores so that you could run all the way up to 3.5" stroke on the block. Most engine builders say this causes too much piston wobble even with a 3.4" stroke, and therefore the block doesn't work properly, Ford claims that if you run the right piston it isn't an issue. Some people are claiming that the block doesn't have enough cooling capacitiy, and others are saying something about the freeze plugs not working.

Kurt

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Stock block sucks nuts, will split anywhere from 450whp to 550whp. Some blocks hold more for a short period of time or that amount for a longer term with a dead on tune and keeping the RPM down. 5 gets you 10 that almost every one of those blocks running 500whp is experiencing some form of cap walk and a teardown/inspection will reveal this. This is one reason I laugh when I see ppl spending money on forged anything in a stock block. Have fun when the block splits at 500whp and your pile of $1500+ forged parts is taken out with it when the stock rotating assembly would have done just as good a job. Not like you need the extra displacement of a 331 or 347 to reach block splitting levels with a power adder either... The "Mexican" block is supposedly stronger but in the end it is still a stock block and I would not trust it with a high horsepower build.

For a 302, if you want to stay 302 and make any sort of appreciable power safely get a DART. End of story, case closed.

Or... save a bunch of money and gain a metric fukton of torque by swapping to a 351 based motor. Stock 351 roller blocks (f4-f6) are good for around 700whp, are marginally more money giving you a huge return for your investment with big power ability for relatively cheap. For those ppl making more than 700whp... well... another $2k for a DART based 351 is not going to hurt any more than it already does lol. The earlier 351 blocks from 69-74 (C9-D4 with the C9/D0 being the strongest) do have thicker webbing and a higher nickel content... but are still 2 bolt main blocks and those require linkbar lifters to work and also benefit from going to a 1 piece rear main seal. Not worth it IMO unless you are in some sort of stock restricted class or something and need an OEM block.

Girdles... a nice device for holding the pieces of your split 302 in a neat little pile for ease of cleanup.

Also, those of us who went Modular have the benefit of uber cheap blocks that can take 1000whp easily. Including the aluminum ones... I paid $250 picked up for my Teksid and forged OEM 8 bolt crank good for well over 1000whp although it will never see near that. One of the biggest reasons I switched. $2k+ head start and 80lbs off the nose.

Edited by scottydsntknow
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You'd suggest getting a DART over a BOSS? The BOSS will hold 800s if I recall correctly.

I have been wishing recently I had either gotten a terminator or a '98 Cobra

Edited by Brian
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You'd suggest getting a DART over a BOSS? The BOSS will hold 800s if I recall correctly.

I have been wishing recently I had either gotten a terminator or a '98 Cobra

Yes brian dart...dont go by the advertised ratings .

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Or... save a bunch of money and gain a metric fukton of torque by swapping to a 351 based motor. Stock 351 roller blocks (f4-f6) are good for around 700whp, are marginally more money giving you a huge return for your investment with big power ability for relatively cheap. For those ppl making more than 700whp... well... another $2k for a DART based 351 is not going to hurt any more than it already does lol. The earlier 351 blocks from 69-74 (C9-D4 with the C9/D0 being the strongest) do have thicker webbing and a higher nickel content... but are still 2 bolt main blocks and those require linkbar lifters to work and also benefit from going to a 1 piece rear main seal. Not worth it IMO unless you are in some sort of stock restricted class or something and need an OEM block.

Would love to do this but the expense of all the peripherals (hood, distributor, headers, and whatever else I've forgotten) has kept me from being serious about it.

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You'd suggest getting a DART over a BOSS? The BOSS will hold 800s if I recall correctly.

I have been wishing recently I had either gotten a terminator or a '98 Cobra

Nah, 95 Cobra is a perfect swap candidate for a 408 stroker. 550whp street 408 will wreck 99.9% of stuff you come across.

Would love to do this but the expense of all the peripherals (hood, distributor, headers, and whatever else I've forgotten) has kept me from being serious about it.

That stuff is cheap compared to what stuff costs in most other engine swaps. You don't even need a hood if you are ok using drop mounts. IMHO if a 302 is coming out of a pushrod mustang a 302 should NOT be going back in when the 351 is such an easy swap and opens up a SILLY amount of power to you.

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Nah, 95 Cobra is a perfect swap candidate for a 408 stroker. 550whp street 408 will wreck 99.9% of stuff you come across.

I would do that if my goal was to street race or drag race.

Opal, I'll look into the DART blocks more. Thanks bud.

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That stuff is cheap compared to what stuff costs in most other engine swaps. You don't even need a hood if you are ok using drop mounts. IMHO if a 302 is coming out of a pushrod mustang a 302 should NOT be going back in when the 351 is such an easy swap and opens up a SILLY amount of power to you.

Enlighten me on drop mounts... I would pay for the custom headers if I could use the stock hood and didn't have to paint and store a second one. Getting the motor is cheap ($250) and simple.

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They are solid mounts hat allow the 351W to sit lower in the engine compartment. Here is a link to lat model resto that describes them better. I do not endorse this website, they are just the first ones that come up on google search.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-6038DS/1979-95-Mustang-351W-Drop-Solid-Motor-Mounts?utm_source=google-shopping&utm_medium=comparison-shopping&utm_campaign=google-shopping&gclid=CPzx48uP7rUCFYtaMgodcXcADA

matt

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