9838stang Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 I am looking to upgrade from my stock rear control arms. I have been looking and looking and looking, and reading articles left and right and still am confused. My goal with the car is to have a stiffer rear end with minimal to no rear suspension noise coming from the rear control arms. My car has an 8.8 our of a 94 or 95 gt it has about 45k miles to date and the control arms are factory and have approx. 165k.The control arms im looking at are theJ&M rear lca with spherical bushingshttp://www.hotpart.com/1979-1998-1999-2004-mustang-rear-lower-control-arms-for-street-race/UPR lca and ucahttp://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-chrome-moly-solid-lower-control-arms-urethane-bushing.htmlhttp://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-chrome-moly-double-adjustable-upper-control-arm-urethane-bushing.htmlor thesehttp://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-chrome-moly-rear-control-arm-suspension-kit.htmlMMhttp://www.maximummotorsports.com/Heavy-Duty-Mustang-Rear-Lower-Control-Arms-1979-1998-P498.aspxIf i got with mm lca idk if ineed uca or even which to go with same goes for J&MBasically looking a stiffer, rear end feel, and get a little bit more traction in the rear, and to get rid of my quad shocks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 By going with the control arms with spherical ends, you will be sacrificing some big of comfort due to the lack of a bushing between the control arm and body/rear end. MM undoubtedly is going to be to notch construction but you'll pay more for it. I can't speak of j&m but I haven't heard anything bad. And upr is well upr. See far as uppers go if get at least something that is single adjustable, maybe even a double adjustable so you can adjust pinion angle while they're on your car stillSent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 If minimal suspension noise is your goal, spherical bushings on both ends are not what you want. Of the options you gave, I'd choose the MM arms, they're the best of both worlds with a urethane bushing on one end and a spherical on the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64bit_Tuning Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 If there are no plans to drag race the car, I would highly suggest the J&M adjustable lowers, and the Hotchkis adjustable upper arms.Sent from my CyanMobileX Evo 4G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 Ah, I guess I didn't look at the first link well enough. Didn't notice the J&M arms had poly on one end and spherical on the other. I'd go with the J&M or MM then. Poly on both ends is better than stock rubber bushings, but poly really isn't very stiff. I'm not a huge fan of the UPR stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64bit_Tuning Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 I run the j&m arms in my car. I like them alot. For the price, I'll always recommend them over MM. UPR however... ill never recommend. Even to someone I don't like.Sent from my CyanMobileX Evo 4G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 I'm running these and I autox occasionaly during the year. seem to work fine for me. http://www.americanmuscle.com/rear-control-kit-7998.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95opal Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 Cant forget steeda ..ive ran these since 07 http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-aluminum-mustang-lower-control-arms-555-4501/ http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-mustang-adjustable-upper-control-arms-555-4100/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prokiller Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 Cant forget steeda ..ive ran these since 07 http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-aluminum-mustang-lower-control-arms-555-4501/ http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-mustang-adjustable-upper-control-arms-555-4100/ me too. can't complain about them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9838stang Posted February 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 me too. can't complain about themDamn I didn't want another one thrown into the mix lol. Hmm I like those too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KillNThrill24 Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 I run J&M uppers and lowers. Lowers have the spherical. Hooks far better than it ever did. After doing some research, I think I'll try out team z next. But for the price I'm very happy with my J&Ms AlanSent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9838stang Posted February 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 Well i went with the J&M lcas for now. looking at which uca to buy now. i still dont know if i should get adjustable uppers or just get solid ones. i will also be getting axle bushings too for the uppers.... dunno whichhttp://www.americanmuscle.com/jm-spherical-lca-7998.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 The adjustable uppers will let you adjust pinion angle, which is worth the extra cash IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 Do yourself the favor and get adjustable uppers. That way you can nail down your pinion angle and never have to worry about blowing out ujoints or drive line vibrationsSent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9838stang Posted February 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 Which ones do you have @Det_Riot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 I have the hpm megabite Jr's. They have the heim joint on the body side. It makes a rougher ride, and also will tear up your torque boxes if you don't have them reinforced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64bit_Tuning Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 ... and the Hotchkis adjustable upper arms.Ahem...http://www.americanmuscle.com/hotchkis-upper-adjust-controlarms-7904.htmlSent from my CyanMobileX Evo 4G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9838stang Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Got a nice package in the mail at work today! My lowers are now solved lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 Good choice. What uppers did you go with?Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearGambler Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 Agreed! good choice on the lowers. Someone mentioned this, but stay away from spherical if this car is a driver. Question: Is the car lowered? If not, you won't need adjustable to adjust pinion angle. just go with a solid set. I scored a set of BBK Gripp uppers for like 50$ used, shipped I've run them for over 100k miles and they are absolutely fine still. My lowers are hotchkins non adjustable with the urethane bushings on both sides. 8.8 housing bushings are MM. One last point to make. When you do the upper control arms, you will ABSOLUTELY need to replace the 8.8 housing bushings if that's not been done already. by now they are shot with 165k on the clock if still stock. Even if they're not shot, replace them with some MM or similar urethane bushings. it is necessary, just do it if they aren't urethane already. MM makes a neat tool to press them out and in. I've also seen some people use the drill bit method - I can dig up that video if you want… PM me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9838stang Posted March 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 Good choice. What uppers did you go with?Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk I have not bought my uppers yet. Still waiting on money lol... Income tax is coming.Agreed! good choice on the lowers. Someone mentioned this, but stay away from spherical if this car is a driver. Question: Is the car lowered? If not, you won't need adjustable to adjust pinion angle. just go with a solid set. I scored a set of BBK Gripp uppers for like 50$ used, shipped I've run them for over 100k miles and they are absolutely fine still. My lowers are hotchkins non adjustable with the urethane bushings on both sides. 8.8 housing bushings are MM. One last point to make. When you do the upper control arms, you will ABSOLUTELY need to replace the 8.8 housing bushings if that's not been done already. by now they are shot with 165k on the clock if still stock. Even if they're not shot, replace them with some MM or similar urethane bushings. it is necessary, just do it if they aren't urethane already. MM makes a neat tool to press them out and in. I've also seen some people use the drill bit method - I can dig up that video if you want… PM me.The car is lowered by about 1.75" and it is somewhat of a daily driver. I have my eye on a couple of lower control arms. But right now I am waiting for my tax return. A friend of mine has some poly 8.8 axle bushings I might pick those up. Still in the packaging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearGambler Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 those 8.8 poly bushings get to be pretty important when you change the uppers and lowers. Glad you are looking into that! I remember using some UMI Performance double adjustable control arms (I had the lowers, and the Baseline Suspension street launch kit for the uppers). I launched on them countless times with no issue. they were well made. Not sure if the prices are any good, but the web site is still up: http://umiperformance.com I know they make some uppers too. Good luck!one more thing. double adjustable may be more expensive, but it beats taking the control arm out to make an adjustment! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Psychorugby Posted March 14, 2014 Moderators Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Agreed! good choice on the lowers. Someone mentioned this, but stay away from spherical if this car is a driver. Question: Is the car lowered? If not, you won't need adjustable to adjust pinion angle. just go with a solid set. I scored a set of BBK Gripp uppers for like 50$ used, shipped I've run them for over 100k miles and they are absolutely fine still. My lowers are hotchkins non adjustable with the urethane bushings on both sides. 8.8 housing bushings are MM. One last point to make. When you do the upper control arms, you will ABSOLUTELY need to replace the 8.8 housing bushings if that's not been done already. by now they are shot with 165k on the clock if still stock. Even if they're not shot, replace them with some MM or similar urethane bushings. it is necessary, just do it if they aren't urethane already. MM makes a neat tool to press them out and in. I've also seen some people use the drill bit method - I can dig up that video if you want… PM me. I have the MM tool, but the bushings were melted to the axle housing so I had to use the drill method. I've been reading a lot about the poly bushings causing binding. Is this really the case; should I be looking for spherical bushings instead? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearGambler Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 I have the MM tool, but the bushings were melted to the axle housing so I had to use the drill method. I've been reading a lot about the poly bushings causing binding. Is this really the case; should I be looking for spherical bushings instead?binding can be caused by a sloppy / rushed install. for the rear upper and lower control arms, you want to grease just about everything. that's why there are zerk fittings on everything. for example: the face of the poly bushings, and the inside face of mounting points. I also grease the bolt so that it doesn't rust fast to the sleeve. also grease the faces of the 8.8 housing bushings. the rear suspension was meant to move! the other critical install step some people miss is to use a torque wrench and set the torque correctly. If you over torque, they will bind. I know some guys that race and they want the suspension as loose as possible - obviously this is not recommended for the street. I'm pretty sure we use 60 ftlbs for the control arm bolts as well as the shock mount bolt. front lower control arms are a different story. the sleeve for the bushings actually have 'teeth'. That was meant to be torqued while under the full weight of the car, at ride height. we put the front on ramps (no jack / jackstands) and jack the rear so its level. then torque it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZSN95SNAKE Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 Instead of starting another thread I figured I'd post in here first: Anybody with ADJUSTABLE LCAs have a problem with the control arms rubbing the rear sway bar severely? I have the J&Ms. I had to notch the stock sway bar a pretty good amount. Worried it might snap at some point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 Instead of starting another thread I figured I'd post in here first:Anybody with ADJUSTABLE LCAs have a problem with the control arms rubbing the rear sway bar severely? I have the J&Ms. I had to notch the stock sway bar a pretty good amount. Worried it might snap at some point.Adjustable meaning spring perch adjustable or length? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZSN95SNAKE Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 Adjustable meaning spring perch adjustable or length?Spring perch sir, they are the lowers. I have them maxed out to drop the rear end closer to the front. So the threaded stud that protrudes from the control is sticking down about 1 1/4" and rubs on the rear sway bar. I notched it badly and it still rubs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 Why not cut the bottom of the thread that sticks through? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Posted August 5, 2014 Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 Why not cut the bottom of the thread that sticks through? yea if you have it bottomed out it's not like your gonna need it, unless u decide to go off-roading lol.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZSN95SNAKE Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 I figured I may one day need to lift it to run slicks or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 If you do just enough to clear the sway bar there should still be plenty of there for you to fit a good sized slick.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-Oh Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Hmm that's odd, can't really recall my perch threads coming anywhere close to the sway bar. Need to look at this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZSN95SNAKE Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Hmm that's odd, can't really recall my perch threads coming anywhere close to the sway bar. Need to look at this.Do you have the perch threaded upwards (vertically)? For example is the spring perch sitting against the control arm itself or is it above? (idk if that even makes sense). So when the spring perch is lowered closer to the control arm itself is the car being lowered or raised? Something tells my I had a brain fart when putting them in and adjusting them. I'll go snap a picture right now.If you do just enough to clear the sway bar there should still be plenty of there for you to fit a good sized slick.Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThat is true. I'll just have to turn the threaded piece with vice grips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZSN95SNAKE Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Hmm that's odd, can't really recall my perch threads coming anywhere close to the sway bar. Need to look at this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-Oh Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 @AZSN95SNAKE , are they the MM control arms? If so I have the same ones and mine are basically bottomed out also. I'll be in the garage after work today so I'll be sure to look and see where my sway bar is in relation to the perch bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZSN95SNAKE Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 @AZSN95SNAKE , are they the MM control arms? If so I have the same ones and mine are basically bottomed out also. I'll be in the garage after work today so I'll be sure to look and see where my sway bar is in relation to the perch bolt.No they are the J&M weight jackers. Is the it the same type of mechanism to lift and lower on the MM arms? Yeah please let me know! Also, if I raise the spring perch higher up it should lift the ride height right? not lower it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-Oh Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 Mine def do not hit. The only way I would think they could hit would be the sway bar mounts location forward or backwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-Oh Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 What's this measure? Centerline of the rearward bolt and the centerline of the perch bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZSN95SNAKE Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 What's this measure? Centerline of the rearward bolt and the centerline of the perch bolt. About 4.25-4.50" from center of that bolt to center of the threaded shaft. Measured it while the car was on the ground so not much room haha. Wow yours clears completely. Not sure if the Cobra sway bar is thicker, but I think it is so that may be why. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KillNThrill24 Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 Pschhh who runs rear sway bars? #racecar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
