Jump to content

Welcome to our site

Take a moment to join us, minds are waiting for you.

ThomasW

ThomasW's Two into One build

Recommended Posts

The wife sewed up a shift boot for me:

 

CEFE2F08-8117-4799-A1BE-69C9E9CBE9D9

 

478CE255-F62C-409F-8FC7-A28F046FF6DA

 

 

 

 

 

 

also pulled the body harness and ecu harness from the donor:

 

C7ED5DEE-35BA-4C2F-8CA3-1565F11E922C

 

 

 

swapped the pedal box over:

 

478CE255-F62C-409F-8FC7-A28F046FF6DA

 

 

 

 

 

 

And now that the GT500 brake bracket design is complete, i painted the front brake calipers:

 

94419A93-5527-4741-A336-D4D2E4C7A13C

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Keep up the good work brother!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the fuel pressure gauge installed and wired up with the rest of the A pillar gauges:

 

88A1DBB0-0E2D-4D6D-9BAE-83E977CA1695

 

 

 

 

Got almost all of the interior associated with the dash reinstalled after swapping the dash harness from the red car onto the original dash for the white car. I also installed the computer and pcm harness. 

 

DC0C09BB-0ECE-46AC-8CDF-D9AA23B8E664

 

 

Then i needed to route all of the wiring from the gauges through the firewall. Typically i would have just cut a slit in the rubber boot near the hydroboost. This time, i had a hole where the hood pop cable goes through the firewall, so i enlarged that hole and used it for the pass through for the boost, electric fuel pressure, wideband, oil pressure and water temp. Then looped it all up and used a velcro tye to hold it out of the way. 

 

 

CAF2CC57-4666-4764-82D3-B804F20EDD23

 

 

Then just to see what it looked like. I bolted the painted brembo’s up to the bracket. I had alread rebagged and sprayed the rotor with oil to prevent rusting, so i didnt bother pulling it back out.   The Brembo logo isnt noticeable from a distance which is exactly what i was shooting for. 

 

 

6D1DA131-5B02-419D-88DD-7DC1CBBF4FF4

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's like building it at the factory when it's disassembled like this. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 minutes ago, droptoppony said:

It's like building it at the factory when it's disassembled like this. 

 

Yes it is.. just way longer of a process. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interior is mostly done... and thanks to two kids, it needs vacuumed again already:

 

1E4168A4-FD13-41DF-B5F2-6ED703C0D88D

 

 

also the hydroboost, AC dryer and engine harness plug mounts all done. Im still undecided if im going to tuck the engine harness plug. 

 

 

67086D50-716C-47E6-A56B-E974F3789320

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wire tuck is complete for the body harness’.  Also got the remainder of the brake hard lines routed. 

 

13A4EAFA-3A17-4B7D-98F4-15848E5D5597

 

 

92C5EF34-C0F9-40F2-9C43-EA97993A2ECA

 

 

Edited by ThomasW

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, ttocs said:

are you sure there is enough clearance for the wheels/tires when they are on there, compressed and turning?

 

 

Should be as long as i dont go 4x4 in the thing 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some stuff has been arriving for the past week or two.

 

Some front Bilstein’s showed up, so thay completes the damper package. 

 

I also got all the stuff for the AN hose hydroboost conversion. I also got a tap and some -8 orb to 8an male fittings to convert the valvecovers to AN line breathers. 

 

925408D2-31BB-4526-ABE0-61DF97406B9E

 

 

Also picked up a Mishimotor power steering reservoir.  Its a nice piece, but it has an O-ring seal and no vent, which i was surprised to see.  Oh well, nothing a drill bit cant fix. Haha

 

873499FC-6C56-41A0-92EB-D0259D12868F

 

 

Some random box showed up today with some S550 calipers.   It appears that they will fit my adapter bracket with just slight mods to the caliper and the same mods to the spindle.  I am amazed at the size differences from 94-04 cobra, GT500 and S550 calipers.  Its crazy!

 

9F621924-29EB-4A35-9701-2D4AC2ACBF0F

 

 

I then got all the teflon washers put on the metric to AN adapters and installed those:

 

85FA046C-A635-4A83-80F3-F0AF8B9E7DE7

 

 

I also started routing the ptfe hoses from the hydroboost into the fender well area and cutting them over length so i know i have enough hose to work with. 

 

355AC1F3-5378-45C3-8667-4A2353C8DE77

 

 

Here is a photo of the P/S reservoir and where i hope to put it.  Its a tight fit, but it should work. 

 

3C242457-6265-42C9-8261-1F7724982DA3

 

 

 

I also got a roll of 1kg Black ABS plastic for the 3D printer, so now i need to draw up and print some AN hose separators. 

Edited by ThomasW
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bit more progress.

 

I 3D printed some hose clamps and separators.  Here is a pic of a few of the pieces:

 

4028D825-0E89-4953-9ECF-C274C261B9B1

 

 

Also got the lines at the hydroboost unit itself made up and connected:

 

6AFEAE9B-9DB9-4E56-BE83-A8351D847830

 

 

here is the Return line “manifold”.  Its made up of a 180* fitting, 90* fitting, straight fitting and a Tee.  I also used one of my 3D printed clamps to mount the lower portion of the Tee to the strut tower.   This brings the rack return line and hydroboost return line into one line to return the fluid to the reservoir.    The reservoir was also bolted into place (the mount needs modified thought). 

 

9FEBBE2F-EA78-4852-9D10-FE5E95B0D572

 

 

A photo of the steering rack lines. The top line that isnt connected is the rack fluid return, the lower disconnected line goes to the powersteering pump. 

 

5DDCBABF-D492-4F6F-998B-B0973769736D

 

 

And here is a pic of the lines running through the wheel well.  There is still one line to be routed for the fluid feed to the power steering pump.  That one May be the only one routed through the engine bay though.  

 

FD8E42E0-D74A-45BA-B482-4FE222D8644A

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, streetpilot said:

Anything new? Excited about this build.

 

Only a little.  Life, money and mother nature are project blocking me...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Last week i painted the intake and gas tank straps:

 

D3E67E4E-7F3B-4BE6-87C0-1BAD949E9A88

 

EFCA7C28-E4BA-449E-913F-9355859AA8A4

 

 

 

i also dropped off the aluminum plates from the Steeda 4 bolt C/C plates, throttle body adapter and throttle cable bracket at the anodizer bc i was tired of those things looking nasty and corroded.   I got those items back today:

 

DDBC50A3-EFF3-4A41-BEFF-DE83E328385E

 

 

 

Then promptly installed them so i can get the car off jack standa when i come back home this weekend:

 

45996AD7-0F44-4245-B199-DDE463BEC9D6

 

 

They look way nicer now, so i guess i better order some Zinc plated hardware to replace the cheap stuff Steeda includes that has already rusted and corroded.  

 

Im also debating on if i’m going to take the imrc delete plates, thermostat housing, 12AN radiator hose adapter plates and radiator cap adapter to get anodized black when i take the brake brackets.

 

 

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the gas tank installed and hooked up.  The tank straps look pretty strapping under there. 

 

E506724F-5009-4FB2-8A1D-FCBC4045A23E

 

 

Also got the car off jack stands, so now i can move it around in prep to drop the motor in:

 

05D95484-8CF9-42C0-BA5B-3FC7F55E442E

 

 

Also started rethinking my decision of it im going to install my spoiler lip or not.   After not looking at it for basically a year, i still like it.  I am just split on how i want to proceed. 

1. Refine the one in the photo and paint it body color

or

2. Make one in the reflective copper CF. 

 

Then the other decision is how to mount it:

1. Permanently (brings up issues of 3rd brake light removal in the future

or

2. Tape it or screw it...

 

Currently im leaning towards body color and mounting it with tape so i dont have to drill any holes in my decklid. 

 

26E16A79-74E6-4B81-8777-BE41AA38BFED

 

 

122C7C61-BEDD-46C1-B4EE-10BE54F30F62

 

 

 

Got this photo of the front end as well.  Im still debating on how to do the front splitter i made... sometimes i think a wrinkle black finish would go well with CF side splitters (whenever i get around to making thise) and that would save me a ton of time in body work.  Other times, i think body color would be best. 

 

So many decisions.  

 

 

9254EA18-8127-4D71-8821-BF2481A2403F

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, streetpilot said:

That front shot has a menacing look to it. Nice collection.

 

I agree, the shade over the car and the bug net kinda make it look a little evil. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I pulled the front cover and valve covers off the engine so i could delete the VCT solenoids and repaint the valve covers:

 

E04D8B80-1D53-4F72-8413-ECD1145AB69C

 

 

I then turned some parts on the Lathe to fill in the valve cover solenoid and one of the pcv breather holes.   Once i had those done and installed, i drilled and tappes the covers for some -8AN orb fittings for the crankcase breather plumbing later on:

 

09992B21-9DE8-4CD7-BD91-C1E6E158E5FD

 

 

 

 

I then cleaned and removed all the loose paint and painted the covers with VHT’s wrinkle black paint:

 

 

C5B6D397-FAB1-4EB6-919F-DCE3BD73E418

 

 

 

 

The engine wiring harness was then layed out on a table so i could start prepping it to be opened, tucked and modified for a cleaner install on the 3v. 

 

2738B8D1-F4B3-4EE5-9A4C-AE31243B0F48

 

 

 

B03D846B-98A9-4052-9ADF-28927E039F9C

 

 

 

8C7E38F8-329E-44FA-A15D-1A8331C9164E

 

 

I then separates the ignition coil and injector wiring so i could tuck them under the fuel rail.   I also replaced the stock injector connectors with Ev6 injector connectors by crimping on new pins.  The FRPS sensor wiring was shortened and re-routed to the rear passenger side.   

  All of the crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor (its being rerouted to the passenger side), AC compressor, TPS, IAC and IAT sensors are getting routed below the intake.  The only sensor wiring that will be routed along the front of the motor will be the oil pressure sender, camshaft, crankshaft and AC compressor.  The engine harness ground, coolant temp and ignition noise supressors will also be under the intake.  

 

Here are a few photos of the progress on that.  

 

 

1584216B-D57C-4C02-BA0F-991B85D2D83E

 

 

990EEFCB-9CF4-429F-A387-935C8FD751A9

 

 

F19D0628-6337-40BC-AFFD-29E2BFDA055E

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well i got the engine and trans installed today.  I’ll finish up the wire tuck with it all in the car since it’ll help keep things organized as an installation package. 

 

363E1111-DF80-470B-A1B2-466F1B13B0B9

 

 

7A7227B8-B7D6-4EB9-9A39-983964328F3A

 

1D120E86-2BD9-4657-9801-D0C460A8F732

 

E3D3FBB6-C764-4783-BA83-2F9873ACEBEC

 

 

 

 

my machinist buddy also sent me a photo of one of my brake brackets in “process” of getting machined.  I am really excited to get these since they are the last item needed for the brakes. 

 

 

A41A6AB5-84A0-4D02-8DB8-B853F866258D

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finished up a some more of the wire tuck.  I need to lengthen the TPS wiring, but its essentially done:

 

1844133F-90A4-4EB7-B426-75A93F3708B4

 

1C9F94AA-FF6B-493B-9932-0EC9D7A47B55

 

 

AFCA21E3-A941-4A00-946A-0F0E16ABBEA1

 

A2E4BC1A-EE53-475C-B953-351AFA820436

 

 

D13781A2-DEBD-4391-801F-40307FF098DF

 

0638C285-68E6-4C05-9815-34DE445081D2

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the TPS wires extended and then used some vulcanizing tape to attach some christmas tree tabs onto the main connector bundle along the firewall.  

 

Now once i figure out how to get the IAC mounted nicely i can do the last wire. 

 

A36D5FB5-4D03-476B-AA66-70E507B893D4

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The prototype Brake Brackets arrived today. 2 small changes and they are good to go.  So i started installing those and got the driver side done. 

 

E0C85A5C-C499-4A27-8688-9E60015318B1

 

 

7ECE33FA-A2C5-45A8-B085-6265A586B82D

 

 

3D79F601-7EEC-46AC-ABA5-6D7C6A4C3098

 

 

21AEAB47-FAAA-4CE1-824B-D984B3AF1E1E

 

 

6BDC9296-46DA-4BB9-9A42-509253A0858A

 

 

Also got the throttle body and accel ignition coils cleaned and painted.  The clutch cable was also wrappes in techflex so it woukd blend in:

 

5E180716-1263-4212-85BD-9B7870812C6F

 

1390AC44-1BE8-4EE2-8EF9-F805194247AD

 

 

The radiator brackets were painted with wrinkle black and the radiator installed.  Yes i plan to clean and paint the radiator fan as well. 

 

AE0DBF2B-9CD2-45C8-AFCD-4A28B6089213

 

 

 

Here is a view down the engine valley showing the engine coolant temp sensor T’d into one of the heater core lines instead of it being in the Radiator hose Y block.  Im still waiting on some -12AN fittings to arrive so i can finish the plumbing of this. 

 

1682800D-4A94-49DF-8731-CDEFEB1041D8

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, GTTRacing91PGT said:

Those calipers look great on there! Count me in for a set of those brackets!!! 🤑

 

Sounds good!

 

I’m expecting them to be similarly prices as the other guys kit, but im also planning to have these anodized in black to prevent corrosion.  

 

The big question is, do you guy want the drillbit/tap needed for the spindle mods included or available as an “option”. 

 

Drill bit and tap is basically $75 extra as an option. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Evilcw311 said:

What size rotors are those?  The other guys brackets fit 14’s which is why they don’t fir17’s. 

 

They are 14” rotors

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm in for brackets!  I'll have a spare set of 2013 Brembos laying around when I "upgrade" the daily (it already has Brembos, but not powdercoated).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now that upgrade training at work is completed, i can get back to doing some fun stuff.  Until i get the heater for the garage though, im limited on what im willing to do, so i only spend a few hours down there at a time at most. 

 

Anyways, i figured i would get some partially completely tasks done. 

 

First up was getting the the AN hydroboost lines hooked up to the power steering pump.   Since Ford power steering pumps are kind of hit or miss on reliability, i elected to make an hose barb to AN adapter for the inlet so its easier to replace the pump if/when needed:

 

1C033D17-2043-4077-A955-1948FA2A9170

 

9638BCE6-C453-474D-A7D6-1EEE0B1FD675

 

 

 

 

I also got the fuel line made up.   I used a 5/16” quick connect to 6am adapter (its labeled as a chevy LS part) to convert the factor steel line to AN.  I also found a 6AN female/male adapter that had a 1/8” NPT port in the middle for a fuel pressure gauge, i bought that and installed the autometer electric Fuel pressure sending unit in that.   The fuel rail adapter is a aeromotive part (1/2” i think) hopefully it doesnt leak, ive seen some reports of them not sealing properly... if it doesnt, i’ll just pull the fuel rail and have a place weld a steel 6AN male adapter to the factory rail. 

 

7F04CDEE-B719-4E3B-BB4D-961DA5B817B9

 

 

 

 

I also finished the heater core hose adapter setup that mounts the factory water temp sender under the intake and converts it over to 12AN to adapt to the MMR coolant crossover AN conversion adapter plates:

 

F2EF7E89-FCE7-4CBA-8E8B-32EB21EB3F87

 

 

 

Then i decided to start making decisions on how to do the upper radiator hoses.

 

currently i have the MMR 1 1/2” barb to dual -12AN Y block with the radiator fill cap on it and a Moroso inline thermostat housing.   It works, but its kind of ugly. 

 

Originally, i had planned to get the On3 coolant crossover delete for a 4V and use their thermostat housing, but they wont answer emails about buying the housing separately and i would still have to put a radiator fill cap someplace.   Those things with 12AN male fittings run $90-150, so not exactly the cheapest option.  The on3 thermostat housing would likely be in the way of the CAI and future turbo plumbing anyways, so i have essentially ruled that out. 

 

The third option, was to buy a 96-04 3 core v6 aluminum radiator, but those are proving nearly impossible to find and the price is still pretty steep.  

 

Option 4 is basically the same as above, except a 94-95 v8 radiator with 12an bungs welded on. Easier to find, but the mounts are different and still not cheap.  

 

Option 5, which is likely what i’ll use..

 

Keep the current setup, get both the Y block and thermostat housing parts anodized black and purchase some 3ply Silicon parts to make up the upper radiator hose.  Then i’ll make up some sort of bracket to hold it in place above the cooling fan and the eventual CF core support cover im planning on will be extra wide along the top to cover all of the radiator hose.  

 

Here’s a photo showing a mock up:

 

9BA42BF5-9CC8-49E7-B8F9-77FC2A9AC595

 

 

 

 

i also picked up a Lokar midnight series flexible dipstick.  It fits horrible as delivered in the “correct length”.  The braided AN tube was 5” to long and there was no way it would ever fit into the engine block following the factork dipstick tube routing without shortening it and/or disassembling it and putting the engine block piece in first...  but, it works after shortening and doesnt stand out like the yellow handle. LoL.  Its a good thing the fuse box is out of the way. 

 

76573934-A325-4DC3-B2B1-1503137DFFFE

 

 

 

 

I also picked up the Redline Tuning quicklift Plus hood struts and installed those.  No pictures on that yet though.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So this talk of a front mount CAI got me thinking.   Its actually very possible and will only need the notch of the inner liner of the hood and no mods to the header panel or core support. 

 

Im pretty certain this will be how i go, its just to unique (ive never seen it on a mustang) to not.  I can also makup a CF panel to fill in the notch on the hood to eliminate the need to body fill and repaint it (or i may just paint it anyways.  Lol

 

Anyways, here’s some photos, let me know what you guys think.  Btw, the 45* coupler would be replaced by a 90* one.  Or if i get feeling really ambitious (doubtful) i’d 3D print a curve piece and make one out of CF.

 

D9D299ED-0ABE-499E-AFA9-2F95FFE0CF60

 

 

 

F32724B6-229F-42FF-A255-A53C95B1234A

 

72BFB73D-21F9-4379-A1C0-316827497BEC

 

 

 

FCEE9718-DBA0-44CB-9977-B3C97339E1A8

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

drew up the hood liner where i need to notch it for the front mount CAI, notched it slightly oversize for the silicone connector, then took that drawing to make up a mold and cut template that can be 3D printed on my large printer.  Once the couplers arrive and i verify fit in the 3D printed parts (im printing one of them right now) i’ll notch the hood and prep the 3D printed mold for a part layup that’ll be done with the remainder of the composite stuff i have to finish for other people:

 
 
ED86CC5C-3404-4DF4-84B8-4DB722F2FC98
 
11968B03-6F27-4DC4-A6B4-0058CA20655B
 
 
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

this is going to be cool.   you never see this on a mustang let alone an SN.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I didnt like the look and fit of the 90* silicone coupler and had concerns on being able to fit a T bolt clamp as well, ao i elected to go with something different. 

 

I drew up a 105* elbow to better work with the dimension i needed and 3D printed it with a pair of sleeves to slip into the current CF cai pipes:

 

4D752F3A-2CD6-4563-9F9A-69874B5A8226

 

 

then mocked it all in place:

 

 

5A426DCD-80D4-4454-B369-69214FCECA3F

 

 

46173ABA-F2C8-4E9B-A8DE-1681143579BC

 

 

832F32DD-384B-46DB-8033-56EADF46C86D

 

 

3676832C-3707-4222-BEAD-09EB0A886216

 

 

 

with that done, once it warms up i’ll do some body work to smooth it all out and them mold the elbow, then make one in carbon fiber.  

 

 

I also took a little time the other day to makeup the vacuum block mount:

 

F5347404-00F1-4F19-839F-4CD55FD5F178

 

 

then i installed the vacuum block under the intake using one of the knock sensor bolt holes.  I also heated and reformed the factory plastic vacuum linea and hooked up all of the vacuum lines for the fuel rail sensor, hvac box and boost gauge. 

 

 

7F52F090-5A45-47EB-872D-775DD06587A9

 

 

 

I picked up a flexible stainless steel universal radiator hose off ebay a few weeks back.  It was only $20 ans looked better than one of the universal rubber radiator hoses, so i figure what the hell and picked one up.  I installed that as well while i was rolling around under the car installing the exhaust:

 

A483ED59-AC37-4A7B-AA3A-DD54C9349B73

 

 

 

The only items left for the engine/drivetrain install is the Cai, driveshaft shortening, upper radiator hoses and the maf/iat wiring extension.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by ThomasW
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×