The Chronicles of 95riosnake's OCD Machine

[Steve-Oh]

I don't like this one and here's why: With having the cog "O" connected to the "C" & the "D" connected with the "F" of fabworks, you shouldn't have a space in between the "C" and "D". It's almost implying that it reads "OC, DFabworks" .... You want the "OCD" to be seperate from "Fabworks". My input would be to somehow keep the OCD lettering separate by incorporating the "cog" design into all the letters. Also your key-way isn't centered in either part of the teeth. :drinktothat:

I'm sure your final design will be the tits!

[Steve@CJPP]

I don't like this one and here's why: With having the cog "O" connected to the "C" & the "D" connected with the "F" of fabworks, you shouldn't have a space in between the "C" and "D". It's almost implying that it reads "OC, DFabworks" .... You want the "OCD" to be seperate from "Fabworks". My input would be to somehow keep the OCD lettering separate by incorporating the "cog" design into all the letters. Also your key-way isn't centered in either part of the teeth. :drinktothat:

I'm sure your final design will be the tits!

:blah:

[95riosnake]

I like but I would like to see one with a welder incorporated in it somewhere.

Yea the gear was just a thought, I think a welder arc would be a better fit :thumb:

I don't like this one and here's why: With having the cog "O" connected to the "C" & the "D" connected with the "F" of fabworks, you shouldn't have a space in between the "C" and "D". It's almost implying that it reads "OC, DFabworks" .... You want the "OCD" to be seperate from "Fabworks". My input would be to somehow keep the OCD lettering separate by incorporating the "cog" design into all the letters. Also your key-way isn't centered in either part of the teeth. :drinktothat:

I'm sure your final design will be the tits!

I should have said this was just a quick mock up, lol...regarding the key-way lol. I don't usually post rough ideas up on here, usually I post finished ideas so an error like that wouldn't make it into public view The reason the D wasn't connected to the C was when I had them joined, the C didn't look like a C. I tried a lowercase d but it made it look too timid.

This design is just the start, I'm sure by the time I settle on something it will look nothing like this one lol.

[Prokiller]

needs more assembly bolts

[Steve-Oh]

I should have said this was just a quick mock up, lol...regarding the key-way lol. I don't usually post rough ideas up on here, usually I post finished ideas so an error like that wouldn't make it into public view The reason the D wasn't connected to the C was when I had them joined, the C didn't look like a C. I tried a lowercase d but it made it look too timid.

This design is just the start, I'm sure by the time I settle on something it will look nothing like this one lol.

I was just messing with you on the key-way, I know that wouldn't fly had it been final! I agree, connecting the two would create an odd pairing.

[Psychorugby]

How about making the spine of the C a cog as well? It will join the O and the C, yet keep them separate like the D.

[95riosnake]

How about making the spine of the C a cog as well? It will join the O and the C, yet keep them separate like the D.

Gave this idea a shot...not too bad. Also played with a different font for "Fabworks". I'm still not in love with it yet so I'm gonna keep messing around with ideas. I might try a completely different approach without the cogs next.

Edited October 23, 2013 by 95riosnake

[Prokiller]

i don't hate it, but don't love it either. not a fan of the cursive. besides, it would be expensive and difficult to incorporate that into a metal plate and look good.

[Psychorugby]

Not terrible. Still missing something though... like the D is left out (that's what she said), or the FABWORKS is in the wrong place.

[Steve@CJPP]

I like the font on the second one, but I can't feel the cog wheel, like I said before it needs a welder or something more fab related I think.

[95riosnake]

i don't hate it, but don't love it either. not a fan of the cursive. besides, it would be expensive and difficult to incorporate that into a metal plate and look good.

Yea the script style font was just playing around with a different look, I think it's too stance scene-ish for me. I'd rather go with a bold, block style font.

Not terrible. Still missing something though... like the D is left out (that's what she said), or the FABWORKS is in the wrong place.

Yea I think adding it to the D would make it too much cog though lol.

I like the font on the second one, but I can't feel the cog wheel, like I said before it needs a welder or something more fab related I think.

Yea I think I'll be ditching the cog idea. I spent hours last night looking at hot rod shop logos, fab shop logos, race team logos, etc. trying to get inspiration but nothing sparked any ideas. I'm trying to think of a way to represent a welder in a shape that can be cut out of metal, which is harder than it sounds. Looks like it's back to the drawing board lol. At least I have the name settled :eagerness:

[Steve@CJPP]

Yea the script style font was just playing around with a different look, I think it's too stance scene-ish for me. I'd rather go with a bold, block style font.

Yea I think adding it to the D would make it too much cog though lol.

Yea I think I'll be ditching the cog idea. I spent hours last night looking at hot rod shop logos, fab shop logos, race team logos, etc. trying to get inspiration but nothing sparked any ideas. I'm trying to think of a way to represent a welder in a shape that can be cut out of metal, which is harder than it sounds. Looks like it's back to the drawing board lol. At least I have the name settled :eagerness:

I saw this earlier for you when I was trying to come up with ideas.

[Psychorugby]

This is one of the fonts I am considering (like I have any sort of design expertise):

[95riosnake]

Both good ideas, thanks guys I'll add those to my ideas to pull from :thumb:

[Psychorugby]

Trying to figure out how to incorporate that 20s Art Deco font with [possibly] the old school Ford V8 logo, a skull, crossed pistons/bones (as the V shape?), and "Redbeard Garage or Speedworks." I think I may have too much going on.

[69clark]

Dan, for the arc just do fine spark trails. Hard to explain easy to visualize. They would be fine, but they could be cut into the metal.

Overall my opinions don't really matter. Do what you like. But I do like the font you had. Also for everyones allergic reaction to it, I think if the O was a little smaller, it would help help make the OCD one thing a little better. But you designs already are better than most can do. Even for people that get paid to do that sort of stuff.

[NVRL8TE]

I like the second one. And again, WHAT a machine!

[95riosnake]

Dan, for the arc just do fine spark trails. Hard to explain easy to visualize. They would be fine, but they could be cut into the metal.

Overall my opinions don't really matter. Do what you like. But I do like the font you had. Also for everyones allergic reaction to it, I think if the O was a little smaller, it would help help make the OCD one thing a little better. But you designs already are better than most can do. Even for people that get paid to do that sort of stuff.

Your opinion is one that does matter lol, especially since you and I have similar taste

Do you have any suggestions? I think the SINIS Built logo has a great look :thumb:

[Tony]

dan is this a business you're going to be starting or something? OCDfabworks? or are you just looking for something to name your car build type thing?

[95riosnake]

dan is this a business you're going to be starting or something? OCDfabworks? or are you just looking for something to name your car build type thing?

It's kind of like the Sinis Built idea, not really a business but more like a brand/logo I can put on things I make :thumb:

[ttocs]

I have had a logo-design in my head now based on the cursive GT logo myself now for while I have been planning. Doesn't everyone have one?

[Tony]

It's kind of like the Sinis Built idea, not really a business but more like a brand/logo I can put on things I make :thumb:

lol, you love the :thumb: guy...put that on there. j/k i see where you're going with it.

[69clark]

Your opinion is one that does matter lol, especially since you and I have similar taste

Do you have any suggestions? I think the SINIS Built logo has a great look :thumb:

I like that SINIS Built logo, but at the same time I always think about changing it and making it better. Never happy with anything. But its simple and clean. Not even a icon to go with the logo, but over all I think it works.

For your logo, I haven't really thought aobut it too, much, i think the only feedback I have is what I put. I like the concept you had (I know some don't understand concepts) and think that could be great with tweaks. I also think that if you play with some more concepts, sometimes you come back to your first one.

[Yeahloh95]

i would make it the same but different

[Tony]

Leave it cardboard! Looks better than 95% of the fab work other people do, lol.

But you designs already are better than most can do. Even for people that get paid to do that sort of stuff.

(I know some don't understand concepts)

dam 69clark sounds under the impression that everybody is a bunch of no skill havin' bumpkins that dont understand "concepts" lol. i think we get what 'ol dans trying to do here :thumbsup:

[69clark]

dam 69clark sounds under the impression that everybody is a bunch of no skill havin' bumpkins that dont understand "concepts" lol. i think we get what 'ol dans trying to do here :thumbsup:

Lol, nah, that just came out wrong. I was just saying that I know it's not done but with tweaks I still think it is a very strong contender.

[Tony]

Lol, nah, that just came out wrong. I was just saying that I know it's not done but with tweaks I still think it is a very strong contender.

yea dan can do some shit no doubt!

[laddanator]

I know this is going to take us back a few pages and please forgive if I missed something. I've tried to read the entire thread but its long! lol I am looking at going with the IRS swap on my 96 Cobra. I can't afford to go OCD like 95 riosnake on his IRS but I did find a nice one from an 04 Cobra with 20,xxx miles. Is this a direct bolt up deal? What gears come stock in the IRS? Will my drive shaft fit the IRS? Just installed a new aluminum drive shaft and I don't want to lose it. Also this may seem like a stupid question but is this one of those mods you can tell right away you got your moneys worth? Could you tell a difference in the ride quality right away? I hate to spend 2 grand and not tell a major difference lol. Thanks so much for any info

Edited October 29, 2013 by laddanator

[Yeahloh95]

your driveshaft will work ,but you will need to swap the flange on the rear , cobras come with 3.55's, it does just bolt in, but you will need to add some more holes at the quad shock brackets , for ride quality and handling it is a worth while swap .

[Brian]

I would suggest sending Dan a PM

[laddanator]

I would suggest sending Dan a PM

Wasn't sure if I should PM since the IRS swap ( or mention of) is in this thread?

[Det_Riot]

[MENTION=739]laddanator[/MENTION] check out the reply from YeahLoh95, it'll point you in the right direction.

[laddanator]

your driveshaft will work ,but you will need to swap the flange on the rear , cobras come with 3.55's, it does just bolt in, but you will need to add some more holes at the quad shock brackets , for ride quality and handling it is a worth while swap .

Thanks for the info. You have to make break lines from the T also, correct?

[95riosnake]

[MENTION=739]laddanator[/MENTION] Yes you have to redo the brake lines using a T, out to two separate new edge rear flex lines. You can either change the pinion flange on the IRS like [MENTION=174]Yeahloh95[/MENTION] said, or you can use a hybrid U joint like I did to convert the rear of your driveshaft to mate up to the larger 03 pinion flange. The extra holes Troy mentioned involve drilling up through the frame rail into the trunk and using thick steel plates to keep them from sucking the trunk floor metal down. You can also weld the brackets in place, I chose not to because I wasn't too excited about the idea of welding next to the fuel lines on the passenger side of the tank. You will need to drill out the front two lower control arm holes where the front two points of the frame bolt in because they are undersized.

One other note is that the swap will move your wheels out about 3/4" on each side, just something to keep in mind. It pushed mine out further than I want, I have some serious quarter panel work to do for it to be how I want it.

I think somewhere in [MENTION=2]Brian[/MENTION] 's build thread we discussed the whole swap in pretty good detail when he was thinking of going that route.

[laddanator]

@laddanator Yes you have to redo the brake lines using a T, out to two separate new edge rear flex lines. You can either change the pinion flange on the IRS like @Yeahloh95 said, or you can use a hybrid U joint like I did to convert the rear of your driveshaft to mate up to the larger 03 pinion flange. The extra holes Troy mentioned involve drilling up through the frame rail into the trunk and using thick steel plates to keep them from sucking the trunk floor metal down. You can also weld the brackets in place, I chose not to because I wasn't too excited about the idea of welding next to the fuel lines on the passenger side of the tank. You will need to drill out the front two lower control arm holes where the front two points of the frame bolt in because they are undersized.

One other note is that the swap will move your wheels out about 3/4" on each side, just something to keep in mind. It pushed mine out further than I want, I have some serious quarter panel work to do for it to be how I want it.

I think somewhere in @Brian 's build thread we discussed the whole swap in pretty good detail when he was thinking of going that route.

The whole moving the wheels out in the rear wouldn't be so bad if you had a stock 17 x 9 rim I suppose but I have 18 x 10 (Mine line up perfect with the quarter panel now) in the rear and that would look funny. No swap is ever easy or perfect as it seems! lol

Anyway, I don't want to get your build off topic as this was covered pages back on your build thread. I do appreciate the info and I will go check out Brian's thread some more. Thanks!

[95riosnake]

The whole moving the wheels out in the rear wouldn't be so bad if you had a stock 17 x 9 rim I suppose but I have 18 x 10 (Mine line up perfect with the quarter panel now) in the rear and that would look funny. No swap is ever easy or perfect as it seems! lol

Anyway, I don't want to get your build off topic as this was covered pages back on your build thread. I do appreciate the info and I will go check out Brian's thread some more. Thanks!

Not a problem man, always willing to answer some questions :thumbsup:

My wheels are 19x11 out back, I definitely could do without the wheels being pushed out 3/4" but oh well... that's how it goes lol.

[laddanator]

Not a problem man, always willing to answer some questions :thumbsup:

My wheels are 19x11 out back, I definitely could do without the wheels being pushed out 3/4" but oh well... that's how it goes lol.

And I thank you for the help. As I have wrote you before, any decision to spend this kinda money has to be thought out and every aspect covered.

Well if yours are 19x11 and stick out 3/4 of an inch, if my calculations are correct ( if not please correct me lol) 18 x10 wouldn't stick out much or very little? Be like -0.25 for mine and then add the tires so it would be pretty close to flush?

[95riosnake]

My wheels stick out maybe 1/2", they were in just slightly before. You have to factor in the offset of the wheels also. My wheels are most likely a different offset (which I don't know off hand) than yours are.

I fixed the poking out issue by dialing in some negative camber on the rears to tilt the top of the tire in to get it sitting flush for the time being. But I'm going to roll and pull the quarter lips out so I don't have to keep so much negative camber.

[laddanator]

My wheels stick out maybe 1/2", they were in just slightly before. You have to factor in the offset of the wheels also. My wheels are most likely a different offset (which I don't know off hand) than yours are.

I fixed the poking out issue by dialing in some negative camber on the rears to tilt the top of the tire in to get it sitting flush for the time being. But I'm going to roll and pull the quarter lips out so I don't have to keep so much negative camber.

My rims are a +24 offset if that helps any. I feel like by what you're describing to me, my setup would be flush with the quarters. I could be very wrong as I'm doing the match on paper and paper is very different from reality sometimes! lol

[95riosnake]

The easiest way to do it is just grab a tape measure and put it on the sidewall of your tire where it sits now, then measure out 3/4" and that's where they will sit.

The SRA's in the SN95's often sit slightly off center so that's another variable. I know my old setup had a 3/8" difference in how the wheels sat in relation to the quarter lips from one side to the other. The passenger's side was further in than the driver's side. It's a pretty common occurrence. The IRS will be dead center though so that won't be a problem.