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95riosnake

The Chronicles of 95riosnake's OCD Machine

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i must be wrong but i didnt think the 03 rear was 1.5 " wider than a sn rear ???

Sho is, otherwise my rear wheels would still be sitting perfectly rather than poking out lol.

Before I did the swap I hit up Steve at TrueForged since he has to spec offsets for all sorts of mustang applications and he said 1.5" wider overall, then I found it to be true when I went through with the swap.

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The easiest way to do it is just grab a tape measure and put it on the sidewall of your tire where it sits now, then measure out 3/4" and that's where they will sit.

The SRA's in the SN95's often sit slightly off center so that's another variable. I know my old setup had a 3/8" difference in how the wheels sat in relation to the quarter lips from one side to the other. The passenger's side was further in than the driver's side. It's a pretty common occurrence. The IRS will be dead center though so that won't be a problem.

Actually had a chance to measure. With 18x10 and my tires, I'm 3/8 of an inch from being flush with the quarter lips. So by -0.25 deduction and the added 3/4 add, It looks like my rear tires would sit flush with the quarter lips. On the driver side anyway. If it did "poke out" a hair, I can live with that but not a 1/2 inch. lol

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Gotta have some poke guys. lol.

I guess it depends on who is doing the poking!! lol

Also, can rubber hose be used to tie the brake lines together? I mean like a good quality fuel line? Cut enough of the copper tubing on both ends to slide the hose over and clamp it down with two clamps per end?

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I found this link as well

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/suspension-brakes-258/260665-cobra-mustang-irs-delrin-uhmw-alum-bushing-kit-w-adj-sway-bar-links-bumpsteer-kit.html

Man, didn't realize the IRS swap could get so complicated! I have touch of OCD myself and if I did get a IRS and didn't replace everything from the link above, I would lay in bed at night in the fetal position! lol Did any of you guys replace all the parts listed in the link above?

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Are you saying you want to use rubber hose instead of hard brake line from the existing brake line out to the new flex lines by each wheel? If so, that's not a good idea. If they didn't leak (they probably would, given the high pressure of the brake system) you would end up with very spongy brakes from all the extra flex adding more rubber hose. You want to have as little flex line as possible.

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Are you saying you want to use rubber hose instead of hard brake line from the existing brake line out to the new flex lines by each wheel? If so, that's not a good idea. If they didn't leak (they probably would, given the high pressure of the brake system) you would end up with very spongy brakes from all the extra flex adding more rubber hose. You want to have as little flex line as possible.

Just in short tight places but as you stated, bad idea. Actually found a very helpful pic of how best to run the lines with the IRS out of course.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/sn95-cobras-24/712695-99-irs-96-98-cobra-brake-lines-2.html#post11964277

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That's the way my lines run, I just don't have a nice clear picture of it. I made the lines at 11:30 the night before my dad came to my house the next morning to help me wrestle the IRS into the car, so I never had a chance to take a picture.

The lines need to be double flared btw, not just a single flare.

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That's the way my lines run, I just don't have a nice clear picture of it. I made the lines at 11:30 the night before my dad came to my house the next morning to help me wrestle the IRS into the car, so I never had a chance to take a picture.

The lines need to be double flared btw, not just a single flare.

Do you mean double or bubble flared?

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The past couple weekends have been spent cleaning and reorganizing the garage (which had a layer of metal dust EVERYWHERE).

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This is about the 100th time I've had to waste a weekend or so doing this, which inspired a new purchase. The root cause of all the mess is cutting everything with a cut off wheel on my angle grinder. It works but it makes a TON of noise and even more dust, making me have to wear a dust mask and resulting in a layer of metal dust on EVERYTHING.

So after a week or so of online research, I pulled the trigger on a Baileigh Industrial BS-128M mitering metal band saw. I drove out to Summit Racing on Thursday to pick it up because I had the day off. Note: the saw itself is one heavy bitch (roughly 200lbs), it was about all I could do to lift it up onto the base after I assembled it. I sat it on my floor jack and lifted it up as far as that would go, then summoned all my manliness to get that bastard wrestled into place lol. Here's the finished product, I am very impressed with the fit/finish/quality. Spent a little time yesterday getting the blade adjusted so it cuts dead nuts vertical and also changed the belt gearing in the motor to slow it down for cutting stainless.

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One of the cool features of the saw is you can tilt it up vertically and attach the included table to it, converting it into a regular style band saw that can cut any length of material unlike a regular standing band saw where you are limited to the distance to the frame on the side.

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The big reason I went with this particular saw is that it is a mitering band saw. Most of the saws like this adjust the angle of the cut by rotating the vise jaws, but this one lets you move the blade itself up to 60 degrees. Since 90% of the cutting I'll be doing will involve angle cuts, this had me sold for sure.

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Parked in its spot next to the Miller so I can get back to exhaust fab this coming weekend :thumb:

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Question since I am organizing the new garage... what kind of shelves are those (on the peg board)? I could really use some shelving like that (all I can find is the ClosetMaid wire stuff) for car parts, at least until I can find cabinets.

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Question since I am organizing the new garage... what kind of shelves are those (on the peg board)? I could really use some shelving like that (all I can find is the ClosetMaid wire stuff) for car parts, at least until I can find cabinets.

My dad bought the shelving system from a department store that was under liquidation, it was used in their inventory area. I'm not sure where you can buy it, but if you find it, it will be expensive for sure. My dad bought all the shelving they had for his garage, he had some left over so I bought it from him. Each shelf can hold something like 500lbs, it's actually a freestanding unit that is SUPER beefy and stands solid. If you remember the frame I built for my work bench, that is made from the support system for the shelves, it was just a version with casters. Wish I had more info for you, sorry man. I'm guessing it's something geared more toward an industrial setting.

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My dad bought the shelving system from a department store that was under liquidation, it was used in their inventory area. I'm not sure where you can buy it, but if you find it, it will be expensive for sure. My dad bought all the shelving they had for his garage, he had some left over so I bought it from him. Each shelf can hold something like 500lbs, it's actually a freestanding unit that is SUPER beefy and stands solid. If you remember the frame I built for my work bench, that is made from the support system for the shelves, it was just a version with casters. Wish I had more info for you, sorry man. I'm guessing it's something geared more toward an industrial setting.

Kinda what I was afraid you would say (since I somewhat remember you saying that previously). I need a storage solution that won't cost my my first born child. My cabinet guy doesn't have anything in his scrap pile, and Craftsman/Gladiator cabinets are super expensive even with my corporate discount. I've got what every car guy has - cleaning products, lubricants, spray paints, house paint, household cleaners, car parts, power tools - and can't get organized.

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you should have said something when Troy and I were there. We could have put the stand together after dinner and helped lift it up.

did Eve sleep a lot then after we left?

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you should have said something when Troy and I were there. We could have put the stand together after dinner and helped lift it up.

did Eve sleep a lot then after we left?

It took about a little figuring to put the bottom together since there were very limited instructions lol, I didn't want to waste hang out time putting together stuff.

Yep, it was like a light switch. 5 mins after you guys headed out Evee was passed the F out lol.

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With the help of the new band saw (made using an angle grinder/cut off wheel seem like cave man stuff), I knocked out the rest of the driver's side piping on Saturday. Next up will be the tricky part; connecting the cut outs to them. I have a completely over-thought concept in mind that should be awesome when finished but it'll no doubt be tricky... oh well that's how it goes, lol. I really can't wait to get the exhaust all finished and tacked together so I can bring it to work and TIG it up :thumb:

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On Sunday I turned my sights to something I have previously only told a couple people about, Ryan (@prokiller) and Troy (@yeahloh95) got a little sneak peek when they were at my house the previous weekend. [MENTION=392]69clark[/MENTION] has known about these plans for a few weeks also, as he usually ends up being the first person I spill the beans to when I'm up to something.

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This is a Wilwood 356mm (14") front kit, custom built to use the monster W6A calipers from their carbon ceramic brake setups. I had to wait 4 weeks for it, which felt like an eternity. The sheer size of these calipers is staggering. It's been tough keeping it under wraps since they showed up a couple weeks ago, but in lieu of "teasers" I wanted to wait until I could actually install them before I showed any pictures.

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6 pots of perfection... I think I stared at these things for about a half hour.

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Assembled rotor

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A couple before photos and a comparison of rotor size, Wilwood vs. Baer 13" rotors:

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Took a few tries to get the calipers shimmed correctly, but finally got everything where it needs to be.

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Put the wheel back on to make sure there weren't any clearance issues, none whatsoever :thumb:

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Once the car hits the road and the pads remove the coating from the friction surface of the rotor, these things are going to look insane. Right now they kind of disappear in pictures since they're black. Let me know what you guys think :drinktothat:

Edited by 95riosnake
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Ughhhh brake pornnnnn. Are you going with 4 pots out back? Its pictures like these that make me pissed I have rks because they have zero room for big brakes in the front

Yea the back is going to get a 13" 4 pot kit with a secondary spot parking brake caliper. Nobody makes such a kit for the IRS though, MM makes one that has no parking brake (F that). I sent out one of my old knuckles to a guy that builds kits for FFR cobra kit cars. He already makes a 12.2" rear kit that uses a 4 piston Wilwood caliper and spot parking brake caliper for FFR cars running a cobra IRS, but they use FFR-designed knuckles and cradles instead of the Ford pieces, so his kit wouldn't work for me. He is redesigning the brackets for me to use on my knuckles. He already finished the 12.2" version and is currently working on my 13" version :thumb:

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Once the car hits the road and the pads remove the coating from the friction surface of the rotor, these things are going to look insane. Right now they kind of disappear in pictures since they're black. Let me know what you guys think :drinktothat:

pfff...they're ok :grumpy: not as badass as my drum brakes are gonna be after i shoot some $7 caliper paint on dem bitches :FuckYouSmiley:

hahaha, j/k. its like $8.99

Edited by 95riosnake
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