Impala1964 Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 ^ Id like to second that.Sent from my SCH-S738C using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted March 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 I'm sure i missed it when i read through the thread, but what paint are you using under the car? I'm going for that old school trans-am look in the engine bay and undercarriage too.Sent from my SCH-S738C using Tapatalk I'm using Krylon Rust Tough primer and paint. The first time I did the underbody about 8-9 years ago I used an epoxy primer from a spray gun, which is some seriously awesome stuff, but where I live now a spray gun isn't an option for me. The top coat I put on that first time was this same Rust Tough paint and it has held up great over the years. I'd like to make love to the underside of your car. Haha thanks Richard! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
69clark Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Looking good Dan. But honestly I was popping in to see some Junk in the Trunk action. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted April 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Looking good Dan. But honestly I was popping in to see some Junk in the Trunk action. LOL Haha you and me both... patiently waiting on parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeahloh95 Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 any new due dates from any of the vendors ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted April 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Nope, I stopped asking pretty much. After about 20 emails or so you start feeling like you're pissing in the wind. Someday I'll put the car back on the ground, one fine day... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prokiller Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Laconia is ticking away bro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted April 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Laconia is ticking away bro Oh I know... if it's ready, it's ready... if it's not, it's not. I'm not gonna rush through it and half ass things just to get it done, especially before driving the car 10+ hours each way. It needs to all be done right lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 dan that air ride kit you have will install pretty quick once you have the harnesses figured out. if you haven't already. so once you get the parts in...bam! i expect bags in 3 days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie_B Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 I know your a do it yourself kind of guy. But send the car down to ekstensive metalworks in texas. They'll have it done and right the first time. Or just look them up for the fun of it. They build some great stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted April 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 I know your a do it yourself kind of guy. But send the car down to ekstensive metalworks in texas. They'll have it done and right the first time. Or just look them up for the fun of it. They build some great stuff. You're right, I'm a do-it-yourself kind of guy so that won't happen but I looked them up and they do awesome work. I have no problem with people using shops to build their cars but my preference has always been to have the satisfaction of doing it myself (regardless of how long it takes me), the knowledge gained in the process and I'd much rather spend money on more parts rather than labor. It may not seem like it but this car is on a budget, it's just had 10+ years of said budget put into it, and as I progress in my career the budget tends to expand a bit each year for the car There are a few things I don't do, like tuning and paint work, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie_B Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 You're right, I'm a do-it-yourself kind of guy so that won't happen but I looked them up and they do awesome work. I have no problem with people using shops to build their cars but my preference has always been to have the satisfaction of doing it myself (regardless of how long it takes me), the knowledge gained in the process and I'd much rather spend money on more parts rather than labor. It may not seem like it but this car is on a budget, it's just had 10+ years of said budget put into it, and as I progress in my career the budget tends to expand a bit each year for the car There are a few things I don't do, like tuning and paint work, etc.I pretty much knew that 100% but I knew you would also appreciate the work ekstensive does Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
410sn95 Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 Read through the whole thread... wow. Very nice work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted April 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 Read through the whole thread... wow. Very nice work.Thanks! You should start a build thread for your car if you have any pictures from back when you were building the car. If you ever get a chance to that is, I know how much work it can be to try to catch everyone up after the fact, lol. When I finally started this thread I had a lot of previous building to cover and it took me the better part of a day to host pictures and type out some description lol. I know I'd love to see some of the work you've put into that fine machine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
410sn95 Posted April 4, 2014 Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 Thanks! You should start a build thread for your car if you have any pictures from back when you were building the car. If you ever get a chance to that is, I know how much work it can be to try to catch everyone up after the fact, lol. When I finally started this thread I had a lot of previous building to cover and it took me the better part of a day to host pictures and type out some description lol. I know I'd love to see some of the work you've put into that fine machine Thanks. I didn't take many build pics. I didn't have a fancy camera or camera phone when I was building the blue car. The few I have are kind of boring or were taken by friends. I'll see what I can dig up when I get some time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted April 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 With the chassis bracing and under body painting finally done, it was time to finally get the new Stifflers trans. cross member installed.As you can see, it's a slight upgrade over the stock junk MUCH better IMO, and with the supplied spacers my Tremec is finally sitting at the correct angle (the tail of the trans. was angled down too much using the factory cross member and was resulting in a tiny bit of U joint noise at certain speeds which really irritated me).Next up was running a new battery cable because I wasn't happy with how I had previously routed it, and the grommet through the floor wasn't really up to par. To refresh your memory, this is how it was routed before:After looking at it with disappointment while working under the car, I ended up ripping the whole cable out. I picked up a nice big 2 gauge battery cable to replace it with and got to work.I found a really nice through-panel bulkhead to neatly pass the cable through the floor from CE Auto Electric Supply. The big selling point to me was the included weatherproof boot that slips over the ring terminal. None of the other bulkheads I found had provisions to be weatherproof, most likely only intended for engine bay/firewall use. The 1/2" stud is rated to handle 500 amps so it'll conduct virtually the same current as if it was uninterrupted wire. The first issue was the fact that where I drilled the hole to pass the wire through previously wasn't a flat area of the floor. I looked around my tool box and found my IRS bushing installation tools, so I combined a 1/2" bolt, nut and two of the thick bushing installation washers into a makeshift press to flatten the floor sheet metal.The next hurdle was cutting a hole for the bulkhead to pass through. The problem was that due to the big hole I previously drilled, there was nothing for the hole saw's pilot bit to start into, so I tacked a washer in place and hit it with the hole saw, a fresh coat of paint and popped the bulkhead in place.With the bulkhead in place, the battery cable was next. I always worried about the wire insulation of my previous cable wearing through from rubbing on sharp edges, so I found a great product from wirecare.com called Techflex to protect it. It's a heavy duty braided sleeving that installs kinda like those a chinese finger trap, then you heat shrink the ends to hold it in place, pretty cool stuff!Lastly I ran the new cable following the brake lines above the chassis bracing, very happy with how it turned out. I think I'm going to add a distribution block up front on the frame rail so I can have the cable run into it, then have individual wires run out of the block to the alternator, fuse box and starter. It's pretty cramped getting them all connected to the stud on the side of the fuse box and I'm not very happy with seeing wires coming up into the engine bay, a single wire will be much cleaner Sorry if that wasn't a very exciting update, but running wires neatly gets time consuming lol. Hopefully pretty soon I'll have the exhaust finished so I can get it to @Yeahloh95 for polishing, and as always I'm eagerly awaiting the release of the Ridetech Shockwaves *cough* @ *cough*Side note, does anyone know wtf kind of socket fits the weird bolts for the driveshaft pinion flange? I never seem to have the right socket, it's definitely something uncommon because I seem to have about every socket known to man and I still never seem to have one that fits those F'ing bolts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 7, 2014 Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 dam i like that hose/wire wrap. shows the red just enough but still covers. good call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SublimeRT Posted April 7, 2014 Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 Cool stuff. I really like the crossmember and the wiring job. I'm taking notes for when I have to wire my car up. I thumbed through the whole thread recently too to refresh my memory on your car......really impressive stuff; great ideas and great execution. The only bolts I can recall around the driveshaft pinion flange is the pinion nut itself and the four 12 pt 12mm bolts that hold the driveshaft flange to the pinion flange. If that isn't what you're referring to maybe someone else can chime in on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted April 7, 2014 Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 LOVE LOVE LOVE techflex.... One piece of advice though is that I have found that after time, even when using the heat shrink with the glue in it that the techflex can work its way out. Make a wrap around it with some electrical tape and then go over that with the heat shrink and the tape will keep it from working its way out later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh@RideTech Posted April 7, 2014 Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 Hey I literally just got off of the phone with Brian @ Stifflers lol. My pieces are coming @95riosnake... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted April 7, 2014 Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 Side note, does anyone know wtf kind of socket fits the weird bolts for the driveshaft pinion flange? I never seem to have the right socket, it's definitely something uncommon because I seem to have about every socket known to man and I still never seem to have one that fits those F'ing bolts...I always used a 12pt 12mm I do believe for mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildWillyWalker Posted April 7, 2014 Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 I love the update (Heck, I was extremely excited about my half assed wire tuck on my Fox). It's just so clean under your car! Running the cable outside the car always makes me nervous but you have a pretty durable looking setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sho Amo Posted April 7, 2014 Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 GM uses something very similar to tech flex on all their factory harnesses, it's such good stuff.Such great work and then, zip ties? Why! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeahloh95 Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 nice I cant wait to wear my fingers out on the exhaust Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted April 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 dam i like that hose/wire wrap. shows the red just enough but still covers. good call. Yea I bought a couple other sizes and plan to put it on any and all wiring in the engine bay eventually. That will have to wait though, I need to stay on task with the current projects lol. Cool stuff. I really like the crossmember and the wiring job. I'm taking notes for when I have to wire my car up. I thumbed through the whole thread recently too to refresh my memory on your car......really impressive stuff; great ideas and great execution. The only bolts I can recall around the driveshaft pinion flange is the pinion nut itself and the four 12 pt 12mm bolts that hold the driveshaft flange to the pinion flange. If that isn't what you're referring to maybe someone else can chime in on it. Thanks man I really appreciate it, especially from someone with impressive fab skills such as yourself LOVE LOVE LOVE techflex.... One piece of advice though is that I have found that after time, even when using the heat shrink with the glue in it that the techflex can work its way out. Make a wrap around it with some electrical tape and then go over that with the heat shrink and the tape will keep it from working its way out later. Yea I thought that might happen, there's some electrical tape on each end also, just not shown. If you noticed how large the hole is in the end of the boot for the bulkhead, I wrapped several layers of electrical tape around the cable to fill in the gap, then slid a piece of 1" heat shrink over that. That end is definitely not moving lol. Hey I literally just got off of the phone with Brian @ Stifflers lol. My pieces are coming @95riosnake... Ordering some stuff from him? You won't be disappointed! And that's good to hear I always used a 12pt 12mm I do believe for mine.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thanks, hmm I definitely have that socket in many different versions... I remember always having trouble with those bolts...oh well lol good to know. I love the update (Heck, I was extremely excited about my half assed wire tuck on my Fox). It's just so clean under your car! Running the cable outside the car always makes me nervous but you have a pretty durable looking setup. Thanks Sean, yea I hate trying to run wires this big inside the car. The silicone jacket is super thick on this wire and with the added braided sleeving it'll be good to go. Glad you like the update though, I realize there isn't much exciting about running a wire and installing a cross member but I like to share whatever I'm up to so you guys don't think I gave up lol. GM uses something very similar to tech flex on all their factory harnesses, it's such good stuff.Such great work and then, zip ties? Why! I wanted to use some nice billet clamps like I used on my fuel lines under the hood, but the fuel/brake lines run next to each other with very little gap most of the time so that option was out. I have tons of cushion clamps to mount hoses/wires but didn't want to drill 20+ holes in the bottom of the car with sheet metal screws to mount them, especially when the fuel/brake lines are already securely mounted in the exact route I wanted to take the wire. I personally think zip ties look fine when done properly and neatly, so they got the nod for this project. Zip ties do have a use other than stitching together trashed drift cars nice I cant wait to wear my fingers out on the exhaust Haha, you'll be compensated Troy! I wouldn't expect you to do all that for free! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmage Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 Yea definitely a 12mmSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh@RideTech Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 Haha no, I've been working with him on Lightning stuff for about a year! lol @95riosnake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
410sn95 Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 With the chassis bracing and under body painting finally done, it was time to finally get the new Stifflers trans. cross member installed. Rio, Curious as to the weight difference between the two cross members. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted April 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 Rio, Curious as to the weight difference between the two cross members. I didn't think to weigh them, but I seem to remember the Stifflers piece being lighter when I picked it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
410sn95 Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 I didn't think to weigh them, but I seem to remember the Stifflers piece being lighter when I picked it up. Interesting... Thanks. Looks like there is more exhaust clearance than stock as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infinite_one Posted April 12, 2014 Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 gorgeous and inspirational vehicle sir. I will be hoping to have this level of integrity in my upcoming 4v modular build. I cant wait to see the end product, its last "stage of OCD" is my current backgroundbravo sir Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted April 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 gorgeous and inspirational vehicle sir. I will be hoping to have this level of integrity in my upcoming 4v modular build. I cant wait to see the end product, its last "stage of OCD" is my current backgroundbravo sir Thanks for the kind words! I'm getting a bit anxious to finally get this thing bagged and on the road, it's been far too long since I've driven it. I'm glad that it's inspiring others to take SN's to another level It'll feel like a rocket ship that's for sure, lol. I've been driving a 160 hp scion the whole time, but hey at least it's a stick so I can still bang some gears when the time comes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted April 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 Well I'm still currently waiting on parts, as always lol. In the meantime I have been tying up loose ends. One such loose end was the driver side front brakes...haha. When I installed the Wilwoods on the passenger side, I had a bunch of crap stacked on the other side of the car, and there isn't much light in that corner of the garage. I have since cleared out the stack of crap, and it was a beautiful 82 degrees today so I could open up the garage door...which provides perfect lighting to work in that corner. Anyway, I grabbed a cold one and knocked out the brakes. This side went much quicker than the passenger side because I already knew what shim arrangement to use, last time was a good bit of trial and error. Since I know we all like pics, here's one of the finished driver's side. On the topic of brakes, I finally received news about my rear brake setup. To refresh your memory, I'm having a shop make me a 13" rear brake kit with a 4 piston Wilwood caliper. They already make such a kit for the FFR cobra kit cars running the cobra IRS. Unfortunately they use different knuckles and control arms so their current kit won't work for me. I sent them one of my knuckles so he could get to work designing something to make it happen. Fast forward about 6 months and he said the brackets will be finished in a week or so. The bad news is one of my requests was to use a spot parking brake caliper like the kit he has for the FFR cars, but he's now telling me there wasn't enough room for one without a good bit of modification to the knuckle...so I'm bummed, but I've never been one to throw in the towel easily. Currently I'm looking around to see if I can figure out another setup for a parking brake. One thought was mounting a line lock on the rear brakes, but I quickly found that it's not something you can use for long periods of time. The ideal situation would be to find something that could actuate the wilwood 4 piston caliper manually, but I have no idea what that would be. Part of me thinks I could still get the spot caliper to fit. As you can tell looking under my hood, I'm no stranger to using a space to its full potential, lol. So I'm currently torn whether I should still pull the trigger on the 4 piston/13" rear kit and hope I can make a parking brake setup. If anyone has ideas I'm all ears. @95opal don't I recall you saying you won't have a parking brake? What are you planning on doing in lieu of one? I vaguely remember you saying electric parking brake. Is it the E-STOPP setup? http://www.speedwaymotors.com/E-Stopp-Electric-Emergency-Brake-Kit,65217.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zach Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 . You could put a secondary caliber just for the parking brake, I believe this set up is on a pantera.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted April 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 You could put a secondary caliber just for the parking brake, I believe this set up is on a pantera.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Yea that's a spot caliper, he claims there's no room for one, but I still feel like I could make it happen. It just blows to not know for sure before dropping the cash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttocs Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 The line lock would draw power as long as the coil is activated to hold pressure correct? I wonder how hard I would be to take the electrical portion of the line lock and replace it with a worm gear? With a worm, same thing that electrical hand brake thang was if I remember correctly, once it was moved into place should lock and keep from moving back if I am not mistaken. Would not have to hold much pressure anyway... I was just dickin with my hurst roll control kit before I got sick to find a location for it. I think its serviceable if I remember correctly I will take a look at it and see if it might sorta work. I have a buddy that is good with motors, if a worm will not work a stepper motor might and he words with those a lot.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SublimeRT Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 That sucks about the parking brake situation. Just thinking out loud here, and I really have no idea since it's not my thing, but would anything from the drifting world be able to help? I believe they run hydraulic hand brakes. Maybe they have some kind of valve that can be put in line to the rear brakes? I'd think whatever parts they use can handle more abuse than a line lock. Fit up to work with the stock handle, or new handle entirely? There isn't much room to work with there. Calipers from another car that'll fit the requirements? I imagine you want wilwood all around though.That electric parking brake is pricey. My fathers car has one. First time I saw one. I think it's cool but seems like it could be a real headache. It looks like cables are still needed to actually engage it with those kits on the speedway site. But the Wilwood calipers don't accept cables which is the problem in the first place, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95riosnake Posted April 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 The line lock would draw power as long as the coil is activated to hold pressure correct? I wonder how hard I would be to take the electrical portion of the line lock and replace it with a worm gear? With a worm, same thing that electrical hand brake thang was if I remember correctly, once it was moved into place should lock and keep from moving back if I am not mistaken. Would not have to hold much pressure anyway... I was just dickin with my hurst roll control kit before I got sick to find a location for it. I think its serviceable if I remember correctly I will take a look at it and see if it might sorta work. I have a buddy that is good with motors, if a worm will not work a stepper motor might and he words with those a lot.... That may be an option, but a bit beyond my electrical knowledge. I can wire up audio stuff all day but when you get into stuff like that I get confused lol. That sucks about the parking brake situation. Just thinking out loud here, and I really have no idea since it's not my thing, but would anything from the drifting world be able to help? I believe they run hydraulic hand brakes. Maybe they have some kind of valve that can be put in line to the rear brakes? I'd think whatever parts they use can handle more abuse than a line lock. Fit up to work with the stock handle, or new handle entirely? There isn't much room to work with there.Calipers from another car that'll fit the requirements? I imagine you want wilwood all around though.That electric parking brake is pricey. My fathers car has one. First time I saw one. I think it's cool but seems like it could be a real headache. It looks like cables are still needed to actually engage it with those kits on the speedway site. But the Wilwood calipers don't accept cables which is the problem in the first place, right? I had the thought of running a hydraulic hand brake, then fabricating some sort of ratcheting lock to hold it pulled up. I looked around online and recall seeing someone saying they might not hold pressure for long periods of time, although that would tell me that there's a leak in the lines...it should never lose pressure lol, I'd guess that person didn't do a very good job plumbing their setup. There's also a slight legal/inspection issue in that PA requires a mechanical parking brake, I could maybe get it to slide past but there aren't any guarantees. Yea the electric parking brake is pricey, and in the end it doesn't really solve my problem because it still requires a mechanically-actuated caliper. If I can mount a mechanical parking brake caliper then I'm good to go with the stock setup and some longer parking brake cables most likely, so at that point the electric setup would be pointless for me. The only real use I could see for it would be if someday I wanted to build a custom console and ditch the parking brake handle all together...but I'll need to avoid that tangent for now in favor of driving my car sometime before 2016 lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeahloh95 Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 i think a simple shut off valve on the rear brake line would work , push brakes on shut valve and there you go open valve and proceed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Det_Riot Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 Send me a picture of the knuckle. I'm sure there's gotta be a waySent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
