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95riosnake

The Chronicles of 95riosnake's OCD Machine

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nice work on the dash , let me know how  the vents come out i need to swap mine too

 

Will do, The last time I removed the vents from a bezel I did it the dirty way and just broke it out, then used JB weld to reattach. I'll probably have to do something similar this time because melting it on factory-style won't work because CF won't melt. I toyed around with the ides of having the vents somehow mounted to the dash rather than the bezel, that may be an option. 

 

Dan that would be a perfect spot for the parking brake!!  Make it happen!

 

Yea I think it'll work just fine. I'll probably just cut out some 1/4" steel plate for the bracket, grab a couple grade 8 bolts and call it done. Once I get the brake kit in (hopefully soon), I can start figuring that out.

 

Ok so I'll def be redoing mine now. Thanks a lot Dan! I still need to hook up the Sirius in mine, it's all just laying in the glovebox.

Do you have a plan for the Bluetooth Mic? I have mine just 3m'd above the rear view mirror for now but apparently you can't hear me too well on the other end from there.

Sent from Space

 

Haha I figured you'd be interested in this little project, I remember you saying you never got around to making something inside to support the radio. Not sure on the Bluetooth mic, I was thinking about mounting it inside the dash vents possibly.

 

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Yup.  Seems a lot of things for our cars are "discontinued".

 

spacer.gifhttp://www.americanmuscle.com/sct-lighter-switch-1999-2004.html

 

Someone needs to make a rep of the shifter bezel that omits the cig. lighter all together.  I would snatch one up real quick.

 

Progress looks great!.

 

Haha, not surprised at all that they stopped making them. I'll look around online a bit more, if I can't fine one I'll just make one. It would just be nice to not have to lol.

 

awesome work dan! that thing sits in there perfectly flush

Thanks Tony!

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Haha I figured you'd be interested in this little project, I remember you saying you never got around to making something inside to support the radio. Not sure on the Bluetooth mic, I was thinking about mounting it inside the dash vents possibly.

 

why even bother, the sound of exhaust is all you'll probably hear anyway.

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why even bother, the sound of exhaust is all you'll probably hear anyway.

 

You'd be surprised, the beauty of Stingers is that at cruise speeds they aren't very loud, nothing compared to a chambered muffler at cruise. I forgot how bad exhaust drone was until I recently rode in my buddy's aluminator/whipple/E85 powered terminator with 3" MAC exhaust... holy crap within 5 minutes I wanted to jump out of the car lol.

 

Now with the cut outs open, all bets are off... that will be ridiculous lol but those are just for being obnoxious ;)

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I don't think SCT makes those anymore to be honest with you brotha.

 

Yea that's what I figured... all of us guys with older mustangs are left to scrape the bottom of the barrel these days, not a big deal I can make one for free... they just won't get any money from me lol, so it's their loss not mine. Once the S550 hits the scene in full force, we're all screwed. People will forget they even made a mustang before 2011...

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Yea that's what I figured... all of us guys with older mustangs are left to scrape the bottom of the barrel these days, not a big deal I can make one for free... they just won't get any money from me lol, so it's their loss not mine. Once the S550 hits the scene in full force, we're all screwed. People will forget they even made a mustang before 2011...

It's already happened we get very little love on cool new toys wheels you name it its all 2011+ that get the love.

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Haha I figured you'd be interested in this little project, I remember you saying you never got around to making something inside to support the radio. Not sure on the Bluetooth mic, I was thinking about mounting it inside the dash vents possibly.

 

Absolutely!  In the "rush" to get everything somewhat together before Myrtle last year I just kindof shoved it in and epoxied the metal framing to the bezel.  I like this setup WAY better lol.  Plus, the face was tilted upwards more then I wanted it to so this would solve that no problem. 

 

 

why even bother, the sound of exhaust is all you'll probably hear anyway.

 

This is most likely part of the problem for me lol.  Stupid exhaust needs to be changed.  Although I will say the mic they give you with the Pioneer units isn't all that great.  Might upgrade the mic to something much nicer!

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Absolutely!  In the "rush" to get everything somewhat together before Myrtle last year I just kindof shoved it in and epoxied the metal framing to the bezel.  I like this setup WAY better lol.  Plus, the face was tilted upwards more then I wanted it to so this would solve that no problem. 

 

 

 

This is most likely part of the problem for me lol.  Stupid exhaust needs to be changed.  Although I will say the mic they give you with the Pioneer units isn't all that great.  Might upgrade the mic to something much nicer!

 

Yea I know all about the crunch time before shows, I used to run myself ragged getting my car ready for Carlisle every year. I guess I'm getting old because I just refuse to rush anymore. Every time I've rushed something to get the car ready in time for something, I ended up going back and redoing it later. These days I just take my time and do it once, if it's ready in time so be it, but if not it's no big deal to me. I haven't driven the car in forever so what's a little longer lol.

 

Yea I doubt the bluetooth mic will work exceptionally well for me, but on the other hand I don't see myself using it very often anyway.

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Ok so I'll def be redoing mine now. Thanks a lot Dan! I still need to hook up the Sirius in mine, it's all just laying in the glovebox.

Do you have a plan for the Bluetooth Mic? I have mine just 3m'd above the rear view mirror for now but apparently you can't hear me too well on the other end from there.

Sent from Space

why not wired in the domelight?
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why not wired in the domelight?

 

That would definitely be a good spot, but I want to avoid dropping the headliner. Ford was nice enough to glue them in so they're nice and terrible to remove lol. I'd also love to put the E3 controls in an overhead console like @ttocs did, but pulling the headliner is about the last thing I want to do, haha.

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That would definitely be a good spot, but I want to avoid dropping the headliner. Ford was nice enough to glue them in so they're nice and terrible to remove lol. I'd also love to put the E3 controls in an overhead console like @ttocs did, but pulling the headliner is about the last thing I want to do, haha.

you can hit the dome light on the passenger A-pillar.  Its hard to drop the headliner but give me a break with everything else your doing its not that hard. 

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Ugghhh removing the headliner is the absolute worst thing I've done to my car. I couldn't believe they glued the living shit out of it. I didn't even know it was gonna be like that. Terrible surprise.

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begmay13003_zps121cd184.jpg

You can see where the glue was. I imagine most other cars are similar. You could maybe snake through there but it might not be a walk in the park. Maybe down the side and over.

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oh this is for the Bluetooth mic sorry I thought you were looking for a power wire.  If I am not mistaken the mics are fairly directional meaning you will need to have them pointing almost at you to be able to pic you up and not the other noise around you.  I think they also recommend on the Drivers A-pillar though as with out the windshield behind it, it makes for a better area to pick up sound.

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Cant you snake it through with a metal coat hanger or something flexible?

Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk

 

Possibly, judging by the pic Sublime posted there should be a clear shot from the B pillar to the dome light.

 

you can hit the dome light on the passenger A-pillar.  Its hard to drop the headliner but give me a break with everything else your doing its not that hard. 

 

Yea I know, just there are some things I want to avoid and dropping the headliner is one of them. I helped a buddy do it once and it wasn't fun.

 

Ugghhh removing the headliner is the absolute worst thing I've done to my car. I couldn't believe they glued the living shit out of it. I didn't even know it was gonna be like that. Terrible surprise.

 

Yea I'm sure there was a reason they did it that way, but I've yet to see a car with a headliner cemented in place as hardcore as ours lol.

 

oh this is for the Bluetooth mic sorry I thought you were looking for a power wire.  If I am not mistaken the mics are fairly directional meaning you will need to have them pointing almost at you to be able to pic you up and not the other noise around you.  I think they also recommend on the Drivers A-pillar though as with out the windshield behind it, it makes for a better area to pick up sound.

 

I'll probably end up making something to mount it there, routing the wire would be really simple whereas I would have to extend it to reach the dome light, not to mention it being tricky to get it routed.

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Lookin good Dan! Side note, my pops and I are working on a 55 Chevy right now and I showed him your exhaust mounts because he wanted something like that for his fender well headers. He was like "wow those are a work of art, he's probably an industrial designer" hahaha. I was like, in fact he is! He was wowed by your fab skills and wants those brackets! I just got a tig last week and I'm going to try and make him some, where did you get the rubber bushings? And any clue on the temp rating for them?

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Lookin good Dan! Side note, my pops and I are working on a 55 Chevy right now and I showed him your exhaust mounts because he wanted something like that for his fender well headers. He was like "wow those are a work of art, he's probably an industrial designer" hahaha. I was like, in fact he is! He was wowed by your fab skills and wants those brackets! I just got a tig last week and I'm going to try and make him some, where did you get the rubber bushings? And any clue on the temp rating for them?

 

Tell him I appreciate the kind words! For some reason I can't find the blue ones, but here's a link to the same bushings in red. They don't list a temperature rating but they're designed for exhaust use and are made of high temp. silicone so they should be just fine for fender well header hangers.

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/309025/10002/-1

 

I'd like to see a couple photos of the '55! That's awesome you got a tig, what machine did you get? I still don't have one at home, but it's on the shop equipment bucket list for sure. It gets old having to go to work to use the tig.

 

I bought a rivnut gun because of that.  Also just ordered $50 worth of rivnuts...

 

Rivnuts are awesome, I'm planning to use them when I mount the levelpro sensors too :2thumb:

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Tell him I appreciate the kind words! For some reason I can't find the blue ones, but here's a link to the same bushings in red. They don't list a temperature rating but they're designed for exhaust use and are made of high temp. silicone so they should be just fine for fender well header hangers.

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/309025/10002/-1

 

I'd like to see a couple photos of the '55! That's awesome you got a tig, what machine did you get? I still don't have one at home, but it's on the shop equipment bucket list for sure. It gets old having to go to work to use the tig.

 

 

Rivnuts are awesome, I'm planning to use them when I mount the levelpro sensors too :2thumb:

I think I stripped out one of the bits/ends today.  Don't suppose you can order those seperatly or do ya just have to get a whole new kit?

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Tell him I appreciate the kind words! For some reason I can't find the blue ones, but here's a link to the same bushings in red. They don't list a temperature rating but they're designed for exhaust use and are made of high temp. silicone so they should be just fine for fender well header hangers.

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/309025/10002/-1

 

I'd like to see a couple photos of the '55! That's awesome you got a tig, what machine did you get? I still don't have one at home, but it's on the shop equipment bucket list for sure. It gets old having to go to work to use the tig.

 

 

Rivnuts are awesome, I'm planning to use them when I mount the levelpro sensors too :2thumb:

Thanks for the link! There are some pics of the 55 on my Instagram, we just mocked up the motor today. As for the welder, I got an Everlast 140st. I read a shit load and did a ton of research, but it was hard because I didn't wanna spend a lot of money. I found a few videos comparing it to the Miller Maxstar 150 which is like $1500 and people like it almost as much. I figured for...get this... $275 it was worth a shot. I tried it last weekend briefly and it worked great, I just picked a new argon tank this weekend so I'll let you know how it is after I really use it more.

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Yea you can buy the tips, I had to buy one for the 3/8 bolts I used for the hanger brackets, then bought another when I broke that one lol. I don't remember where I bought them from but you shouldn't have a problem finding them. @ttocs


Thanks for the link! There are some pics of the 55 on my Instagram, we just mocked up the motor today. As for the welder, I got an Everlast 140st. I read a shit load and did a ton of research, but it was hard because I didn't wanna spend a lot of money. I found a few videos comparing it to the Miller Maxstar 150 which is like $1500 and people like it almost as much. I figured for...get this... $275 it was worth a shot. I tried it last weekend briefly and it worked great, I just picked a new argon tank this weekend so I'll let you know how it is after I really use it more.

 

Damn $275? For that much, I may have to give it a shot if you end up liking it. Does it run on 110 or 220? It would be awesome to be able to tig at home.

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Yea you can buy the tips, I had to buy one for the 3/8 bolts I used for the hanger brackets, then bought another when I broke that one lol. I don't remember where I bought them from but you shouldn't have a problem finding them. @ttocs

 

Damn $275? For that much, I may have to give it a shot if you end up liking it. Does it run on 110 or 220? It would be awesome to be able to tig at home.

Yea man, for that price it was a no brainer. It runs on 220, but also comes with a nice molded adaptor to go from 220 to 110 which is nice because i don't have 220 in my garage, so I can tack parts in the garage on 110, then bring them in my basement and plug it into my dryer outlet and finish weld whatever I'm doing.

 

Again, I've only used it once but I can forsee having to purchase a better quality torch. The one it comes with is mediocre...it works fine, but the build quality isn't great. I found that a little wierd considering the rest of the machine, cables, etc are all really nice quality! I went to the welding shop to pick up my argon tank and literally LOL'ed at the Miller Maxstar because it looked so similar in quality.

 

If you wanna PM me your cell number, I can keep you updated on how it holds up. I have high hopes, and I literally cant wait to use it!

 

http://www.amazon.com/EVERLAST-PowerARC-140amp-Welder-Voltage/dp/B0081BF4JC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398688754&sr=8-1&keywords=everlast+140st

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Yea man, for that price it was a no brainer. It runs on 220, but also comes with a nice molded adaptor to go from 220 to 110 which is nice because i don't have 220 in my garage, so I can tack parts in the garage on 110, then bring them in my basement and plug it into my dryer outlet and finish weld whatever I'm doing.

 

Again, I've only used it once but I can forsee having to purchase a better quality torch. The one it comes with is mediocre...it works fine, but the build quality isn't great. I found that a little wierd considering the rest of the machine, cables, etc are all really nice quality! I went to the welding shop to pick up my argon tank and literally LOL'ed at the Miller Maxstar because it looked so similar in quality.

 

If you wanna PM me your cell number, I can keep you updated on how it holds up. I have high hopes, and I literally cant wait to use it!

 

http://www.amazon.com/EVERLAST-PowerARC-140amp-Welder-Voltage/dp/B0081BF4JC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398688754&sr=8-1&keywords=everlast+140st

 

Pm sent

 

And I don't blame you for not taking the plunge on the Miller, $1500 is a tough pill to swallow.

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This week's update begins with this pile of stainless.

 

pjx4.jpg

 

I finally finished welding the exhaust! It took me a while because I have been working through a lot of my lunch breaks lately (I usually try to knock out some welding during lunch) and sometimes it's hard to motivate myself to go to work on my days off lol. You may also notice the virgin set of SVO skirts in the pic that I have been hoarding for about 6 years. I decided to use them finally, but more on that in future updates...

 

I couldn't resist laying everything out on the garage floor, it seems like I always see other people take this photo so I'll play too :2thumb: As I've said before, the non-symmetry still bothers me a bit, but in the end ground clearance is king and I couldn't have symmetry while still keeping everything tucked up nicely.

 

0l36.jpg

 

6249.jpg

 

And some detail shots, a pro could probably do better but being self-taught I'm pretty proud of how it turned out :2thumb:

 

r8ir.jpg

 

sc5n.jpg

 

t207.jpg

 

cvkf.jpg

 

fh74e.jpg

 

4n98.jpg

 

In case anyone is wondering, the oval flanges that connect the cut out flow tubes to the side pipes are welded on the inside.

 

I did my best to reduce any movement of the pipes when welding them, but some movement was inevitable. Couple that with the new cross member raising the tailshaft of the trans up where it should be (which raised the collectors upward...), and I had some fitment issues to sort out. I ended up having to cut the front legs of the X pipe off and mod them quite a bit but in the end everything fits perfectly. I didn't take any photos when I was modding the X because I was pretty irritated and a bit disgusted. Anyway, here are the installed pics, after months of fabrication on this exhaust, lol.

 

ymhan.jpg

 

bkrq.jpg

 

e1bzk.jpg

 

d9t6.jpg

 

72vh.jpg

 

w7m6.jpg

 

I'm currently shopping around for a couple things to put my mind at ease on a couple small issues. If you notice, the passenger side muffler is VERY close to the fuel/brake lines so I'd like to find a heat sleeve that I can wrap around them. Most that I'm finding require you to slip them over the end of the lines, but I'd rather not go through all that trouble. Ideally I'm looking for something you wrap around and secure with stainless ties. I'm also going to use some stick-on heat shields on the floor board where the cut outs are close (about 3/4" from the floor) to reduce them heating up the floor. But first I have to pull it all off again and get the stainless stuff to @Yeahloh95 who will be doing the polishing honors for me.

 

Lastly, after running the new battery cable, my OCD kicked in last week and I decided to add a few things. First up is a pair of 200A circuit breakers that I'll put at both ends of the cable. Should anything happen to the cable and cause a short, they'll pop immediately. I also picked up a distribution block to make it easier to connect everything up front. I'll run the 2 gauge cable from the battery into one side, then have separate 4 gauge wires going from the distribution block to the starter, alternator and fuse box. I haven't decided where to mount it yet but there aren't many accessible, yet hidden spots available so I'm guessing it will end up inside the fender well.

 

628l.jpg

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damn Dan, that exhaust turned out sick.  Mad props.  Absolutely love the hangers too, that helps to set it off and doesn't make it look like the dingy stock hangers.

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looks really good of course.  Knowing how hot my consol got inside the car though I am a little concerned about the power wire you ran right above it.  I know the tech flex can start to melt from a heat gun being on it too long not sure what a hot exhaust could do.  They make a fiberglass techflex wrap that is heat resistant that would be better to use there.

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damn Dan, that exhaust turned out sick.  Mad props.  Absolutely love the hangers too, that helps to set it off and doesn't make it look like the dingy stock hangers.

 

Thanks!

 

glad to see it all welded up now my fun begins 

 

Haha yep, what are you doing Saturday? Maybe we could meet up somewhere for lunch and I could get you the exhaust?

 

looks really good of course.  Knowing how hot my consol got inside the car though I am a little concerned about the power wire you ran right above it.  I know the tech flex can start to melt from a heat gun being on it too long not sure what a hot exhaust could do.  They make a fiberglass techflex wrap that is heat resistant that would be better to use there.

 

That's why I'm going to add some heat shielding over it right there, the Techflex I used is rated at 482°F melting point, and the cable is silicone sheathed so I shouldn't have any issues if I put some shielding over it. I'm more concerned about heating up the brake fluid and fuel in those lines.

 

Here's the techflex I used:

 

http://www.wirecare.com/product.asp?pn=WC00151117

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Awesome update.

 

You know how much you saved by welding all that up yourself?  Millions!  Well maybe not quite that much but close. That is a lot of welds, which look great by the way.  I am a little disappointed at no video though....I kid.

 

I battled the heat issue.  I used the DEI stuff slip over stuff that I split myself and wrapped around hoses.  They also make a wire loom that is split like the plastic stuff but that is designed to reflect the heat.

 

Where did you get that distribution block from?  Got a link or part number?

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Awesome update.

 

You know how much you saved by welding all that up yourself?  Millions!  Well maybe not quite that much but close. That is a lot of welds, which look great by the way.  I am a little disappointed at no video though....I kid.

 

I battled the heat issue.  I used the DEI stuff slip over stuff that I split myself and wrapped around hoses.  They also make a wire loom that is split like the plastic stuff but that is designed to reflect the heat.

 

Where did you get that distribution block from?  Got a link or part number?

 

Thanks! It was a lot of work but I think it benefited me two fold in 1) saving me money and 2) giving me more practice tig welding :2thumb:

 

Did you have any issues with the sleeves fraying after you split them? I think that would work pretty well for me. What did you use to secure them, stainless zip ties?

 

Here's a link to the distribution block, but unfortunately it says it's out of stock now.

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_36189_Xscorpion-AGU3044P.html

 

They do have the same block designed for mini ANL fuses rather than AGU fuses, if you don't have a preference of one fuse type vs. another here's the link:

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_36174_Xscorpion-MANL3044P.html

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yeah dan we might be able to meet up sat i need to see how i am making out on the svo by then i am trying to get the tail pipes on by the weekend

 

Cool let me know, we could probably meet up at the same place I met you when I sold you my T5

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Thanks! It was a lot of work but I think it benefited me two fold in 1) saving me money and 2) giving me more practice tig welding :2thumb:

 

Did you have any issues with the sleeves fraying after you split them? I think that would work pretty well for me. What did you use to secure them, stainless zip ties?

 

Here's a link to the distribution block, but unfortunately it says it's out of stock now.

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_36189_Xscorpion-AGU3044P.html

 

They do have the same block designed for mini ANL fuses rather than AGU fuses, if you don't have a preference of one fuse type vs. another here's the link:

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_36174_Xscorpion-MANL3044P.html

Didn't fray, much.  I used some stainless aviation safety wire to secure it.  Those stainless zip-ties are expensive and difficult to get tight on smaller diameters.

 

Thanks for the links.

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Didn't fray, much.  I used some stainless aviation safety wire to secure it.  Those stainless zip-ties are expensive and difficult to get tight on smaller diameters.

 

Thanks for the links.

 

Ah that will work, I still have some wire left from my rotors so I can use some of that :2thumb:

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Thanks! It was a lot of work but I think it benefited me two fold in 1) saving me money and 2) giving me more practice tig welding :2thumb:

 

Did you have any issues with the sleeves fraying after you split them? I think that would work pretty well for me. What did you use to secure them, stainless zip ties?

 

Here's a link to the distribution block, but unfortunately it says it's out of stock now.

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_36189_Xscorpion-AGU3044P.html

 

They do have the same block designed for mini ANL fuses rather than AGU fuses, if you don't have a preference of one fuse type vs. another here's the link:

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_36174_Xscorpion-MANL3044P.html

I can't find a link to the stuff I used as it was already split down the middle.  IT was basically tech flex made from fiberglass and was good to really hot temps...  They make it though, its out there...

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