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95riosnake

The Chronicles of 95riosnake's OCD Machine

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I know the feeling. I am not fond of HF, but I read some pretty good reviews on this. Most things that come from HF that spin really fast or hold heavy loads scare me lol. I've used it twice on my car. First when I installed the BBK long tubes and the second time was when I switched to the ARH long tubes. I've also used it on a few of my friends' cars. It is still holding up well!

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That's a great piece to have. I actually used one I had made when I did my k-member but it's in no way adjustable making it hard to use with other vehicles.

Sent from Space

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there is always that question when you go to harbor freight of "is it worth it to save a few bucks and buy this from them?  What is the penalty for failure?"  Your braver then me.....  Those reviews were not on HF site where they?  I use to pay attention to those until I had my air saw die on my just out of warranty from eastwood.  I left a bad review on their site saying what happened and it has yet to show up.

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there is always that question when you go to harbor freight of "is it worth it to save a few bucks and buy this from them?  What is the penalty for failure?"  Your braver then me.....  Those reviews were not on HF site where they?  I use to pay attention to those until I had my air saw die on my just out of warranty from eastwood.  I left a bad review on their site saying what happened and it has yet to show up.

 

In general I stay away from anything with motors or gears from HF. I ended up going with this one when I saw the same exact one with a different sticker in the middle selling for twice the price. Same bar, different company charging more for it. There isn't much to these things, and it would cost more to buy the materials to make one than it did to buy this. Like @Blackmage said, this is really one of those tools you use once and never again. Even if the "feet" on the side somehow broke, the engine still wouldn't fall on me unless it somehow managed to bend both of the rectangular steel tubes in half over their long axis (they're turned upright). The sides of the bar would hit the strut towers.

 

The reviews I found were on a garage forum, so I wasn't too worried about bias.

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dan i need a truck and a guy at work had an svo growing up so he had to have mine once he saw it , it acted like ti didnt want to leave with all the trouble i had this last month, and yeah i will come help with trans and rear main seal , they have a new one out that is to seal better too!!

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dan i need a truck and a guy at work had an svo growing up so he had to have mine once he saw it , it acted like ti didnt want to leave with all the trouble i had this last month, and yeah i will come help with trans and rear main seal , they have a new one out that is to seal better too!!

 

What happened to your powerstroke? That kinda sucks the SVO is gone, but now that'll free you up to work on the rest of the fleet lol.

 

Any info on this new type of rear main seal?

 

Nice update!  You will never regret the tubular k-member.

 

I guarantee I won't! I've always intended to do it, just always had money tied up in other things. One thing I'm wondering though, is where you guys with tubular K's put the jack when jacking up the front of the car?

 

one can never be to careful when playing with his tubular member under the car.............. B-)

 

i-see-what-you-did-there.jpg?w=440&h=274

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i put something under the k member and jack right on it , and dan i traded the truck on the 12 , and i wil try and get you the part number of the new rear main seal

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i put something under the k member and jack right on it

 

Same.  I have a Maximum Motorsports k-member on my car and I usually just place a small chunk of wood on the jack-pad and lift from the center of the k-member.  Never had a problem.

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I'm probably going to make a little jack cradle for my k member. But with these new subframes, I can jack at the rear tire and lift the whole side of the car up haha

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I'm probably going to make a little jack cradle for my k member. But with these new subframes, I can jack at the rear tire and lift the whole side of the car up haha

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yea that tripped me out after I had the subframe connectors installed..

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Same.  I have a Maximum Motorsports k-member on my car and I usually just place a small chunk of wood on the jack-pad and lift from the center of the k-member.  Never had a problem.

 

 

^ this

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 But with these new subframes, I can jack at the rear tire and lift the whole side of the car up haha

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I hate jacking my friends cars and they dont flex and do this /\  then i would jack the stang the the front would still be kissing the floor and the back was completely up in the air.. haha

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I had to purchase that HF engine bar cause I was stuck in a bind, and needed one that day/weekend.  It supported my heavy Windsor at full dress with K member out (Resealing the oil pan).

 

Only thing that worried me was the welds on the chain hook ups.   When I use it again I will probably fab up some new hookups for piece of mind.

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I had to purchase that HF engine bar cause I was stuck in a bind, and needed one that day/weekend.  It supported my heavy Windsor at full dress with K member out (Resealing the oil pan).

 

Only thing that worried me was the welds on the chain hook ups.   When I use it again I will probably fab up some new hookups for piece of mind.

 

Thanks for the tip, I'll look them over again and weld on them a bit more if they look like the welds aren't too great.

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I didn't get much time to dedicate to the mustang today, ended up having to do some maintenance on the daily driver. But, I did knock out a little issue.

 

When I heated and BFH'ed the headers last week, an unintended side effect was that the primary tubes I dented also warped. Since these headers have individual flanges, it didn't take much for this to happen. That day I tried just clamping the flanges down to a 2x4 and heating them with a propane torch but the torch wasn't putting out enough heat.

 

uuvj.jpg

 

54ra.jpg

 

I decided to go with my usual route, and go overkill to correct the situation, lol. Made a jig out of scrap 2x2 square steel tubing by drilling holes to match the header gaskets, then picked up some long 3/8 allen bolts at the hardware store.

 

bv4s.jpg

 

Bolted the header down to the jig

 

tdvv.jpg

 

Then hit it with the torch, this time with some MAPP gas

 

q885.jpg

 

After a few minutes of heating, you could feel the tube "ticking" as it relaxed into proper shape, then viola, good to go!

 

nrpk.jpg

 

Repeated on the other header, and now they're ready to box up and send to Jet Hot for re-coating :2thumb:

 

dyf7.jpg

 

I apologize for the less than mind blowing update lol, I should have some things showing up soon that will make for a nice update

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Yea they should lol. I thought about going with a set of Kooks but I've heard a few people say the collectors hang a bit lower, which is the absolute last thing I want. Also any difference in collector height/position would mean more cutting and welding on the exhaust to compensate...and I am 100% DONE doing exhaust fabrication for a very long time lol.

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Bringing up a topic you covered a long time ago, but how do you like the CF armrest? It's a Special Carbon Fiber piece right? And I've heard nothing but great things about Carbon Driven pieces, so I feel safe ordering from them. The Special Carbon Fiber pieces are iffy from what I've seen. Does the CF from the 2 companies come close to matching?

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Bringing up a topic you covered a long time ago, but how do you like the CF armrest? It's a Special Carbon Fiber piece right? And I've heard nothing but great things about Carbon Driven pieces, so I feel safe ordering from them. The Special Carbon Fiber pieces are iffy from what I've seen. Does the CF from the 2 companies come close to matching?

I'm pretty sure it was made by the same guy who is now Special Carbon Fiber, his company has changed names several times over the past few years. It's a nice piece though, at the time they were the only ones making any CF pieces for sn's. Given a choice between them and @Carbon Driven though, I'd pick Carbon Driven without question. There are a couple flaws in the weave and a spec of something in the lacquer (most people would never notice it, but you know how I am lol), I guarantee Rob wouldn't let that slide. Special Carbon Fiber overlaid my Autometer cluster bezel (once again, wasn't aware of Carbon Driven at the time) and it's decent but as with the arm rest, the planning of how they laid/oriented the weave leaves something to be desired in my eyes. Rob is planning to make a dual gauge cluster bezel in the future so when he does, I'll be upgrading to his. One other thing to be aware of is a good portion of SCF pieces are overlaid factory parts, not full CF replacements.

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I spent my time this past weekend finishing up stereo wiring and getting the head unit hooked up, playing with gain settings, etc. The sound is leaps and bounds better with the kick panel speakers, and I forgot how damn good that single Boston G5 10" sounds! Unfortunately none of this was picture-worthy lol.

 

One thing I snapped some pics of is my shiny new K-member :2thumb:

 

Went with the Team Z Autocross ("Street Beast") K member and it is a really nice piece! Thanks to @Det_Riot putting his in first, I now know I need to pick up some offset rack bushings to go with it...any recommendations for a nice set of solid offset rack bushings, or are they only available in urethane? I also ordered their K-member and steering rack hardware kits (in the box in the pics) to minimize headaches. I'm planning to wait to install this until I get my headers back from Jet-Hot in a couple weeks so I can yank the stock K out, get the headers in place, then install the new K. Should hopefully equal zero scratches on the headers, I hope lol.

 

klhr.jpg

 

32igx.jpg

 

wshm.jpg

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You'll have to clearance washers for where ut mounts to the body between the control arms on one side. Look up a thread called non biased TeamZ k member install. Lol very helpful. That's where I got bit of insight from!

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That looks beefier than their first K-members.  Are you going to leave it the same color or strip it and go RED to match the IRS?

 

Also, thanks for the links to the power distro fused blocks.  I bought a few in different configurations.  Then went and bought a bunch (6) through panel fittings and other items for my battery cables.  Next up is my stereo.  I got a smoking deal (free) on a gently used $800 Kenwood single DIN with NAV.  You are making me step up my wiring game and I was  going to use the factory radio till I saw yours.

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Another thing, idk if the autox k is different. But on mine, there was no way to tighten the control arm bolts all the way to the ford spec of 120+. As soon as you hit about 70-80, the brackets began to visually bend. I Torqued them to 85 and called it a day

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Another thing, idk if the autox k is different. But on mine, there was no way to tighten the control arm bolts all the way to the ford spec of 120+. As soon as you hit about 70-80, the brackets began to visually bend. I Torqued them to 85 and called it a day

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The only diffetence is in the added bracing for the auto x vs the standard k. Everything else should be the same. BTW i had zero issues with mounting the control arms and reachimg the torque. Specs,,, idk
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Found that thread on Corral, good find. Looks like the fitment issues are pretty minimal, that comes with the territory these days really. I think the ONLY thing I've bought for my car in recent memory that bolted right up with NO modifications at all was the front Wilwood brakes...but for what they cost they better bolt right up lol. I have to decide what rack bushings to run, I'd like to run solid bushings but a quick search didn't show any in offset.

Funny you mention that, after it showed up I texted @Det_Riot a pic of it and he said "oh you shoulda let me know, I know the guy who does their powder coating and could have gotten it coated any color you want for no extra charge" or something to that effect. Ugh... so I'm gonna just leave the color as-is because I really do like the look of the silver vein finish, had I known I could have any color I would have gone with red to match the IRS but oh well.

No problem on the links, I looked around a while to find some nice blocks to use and those seemed to be the best balance of cost and features. The through-panel fittings are super nice and waaaaay better than just shoving a cable through a grommet. I kept picturing the cable wearing through the grommet and wire insulation, then shorting out and causing havoc. I take it as a huge compliment that I am making you step up your wiring game, lol because reading through your thread inspired me to step up mine!

Dude, you work at a machine shop, you're telling me you don't have a lathe that you can turn some down out of aluminum?

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Dude, you work at a machine shop, you're telling me you don't have a lathe that you can turn some down out of aluminum?

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Oh I definitely could, just need to get some aluminum stock. But then I would have to figure out how much to offset them, wouldn't be too hard but sometimes I actually do get tired of making everything, lol.

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