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Det_Riot

Det_Riot's Sexual Teal Whale Cannon Resurrection

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Here is a quick illustration of what I was trying to describe via text last night... Cut the edge of the silicone outer layer at an angle, then lube it all up with dielectric grease including the metal clip, then push the boot on. That little angle may not seem like much but I found it helped a lot in getting the boot pushed on.

plugwireendassembly.jpg

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Here is a quick illustration of what I was trying to describe via text last night... Cut the edge of the silicone outer layer at an angle, then lube it all up with dielectric grease including the metal clip, then push the boot on. That little angle may not seem like much but I found it helped a lot in getting the boot pushed on.

plugwireendassembly.jpg

Haha this is awesome. Thanks man! Makes perfect sense

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Got some stuff done today.

Unwrapped my intake finally

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And finished gauge cluster 2.0. Still not happy with it but almost there. The plastiweld worked wonderful aside from the fact that I didn't mix it well enough. This caused air bubbles I had to fill in with bon do filler. Needless to say its not as smooth as it should be. I got lazy on it.

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Tried putting in my new oil pressure sending unit bit damn thing doesn't fit in the OEM hole. How has anyone else got their electric sending unit to fit?mm

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Well I think I found my misfire issue....

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So today and put on my Taylor 10.4mm wires and vertical wire looms. Point to first: These plug are masssssive. Point to second: vertical looms are sweet!

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Halfway there!

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Doneeeee! These are so clean and make the rest of my engine bay look so dirty =\ Ugh, car problems

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lol actually finished putting the driveshaft in yesterday. Got bored and pumped it out real quick. My dad picked up some brass fittings from his work so hopefully I can get the oil pressure sending unit in and ready to go!

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lol actually finished putting the driveshaft in yesterday. Got bored and pumped it out real quick. My dad picked up some brass fittings from his work so hopefully I can get the oil pressure sending unit in and ready to go!

You're gonna need something similar to this: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-9278A/1979-89-Mustang-Oil-Pressure-Sending-Unit-Extension-50L

The brass fittings will eventually crack and leak oil, happened to my old motor. I don't know where I got my extension from since my shop did it but the one I posted above might work as well. I can get you exact measurements when I get home Thursday from the one I have.

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why is the autometer stuff brass then? not bashing just wondering.

Understandable, I guess it's just the brass fittings?! That's where they told me it was leaking because they cracked. You have to use so many to get the new sender away from the block that I guess it causes more stress on the brass fittings with the car bouncing around and whatnot.

Sent from Space

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So many? haha I did it with one. I'll get some pictures tomorrrow! My dad got a bunch of them from his work so we'll see how long it lasts =]

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I use brass fittings for my oil pressure gauge, BUT I used to have gaggle of them put together to use to factory gauge aswell, but it would leak. Now I just use one fitting in the block and my aftermarket gauge... No leaks... Just fyi...

Jeremy

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are you electrical or mechanical gauge? You gotta do something to kick out the electrical gauge because the sending unit is too large.

If you are worried about it, try something like this maybe? Then figure out a way to mount your sending unit to the block or firewall?

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Mechanical... Much more accurate

Jeremy

Are they really? I've never heard that! But now that I think about it, all of our accurate pressure gauges at the shop are mechanical.

So, do you just run a oil line right into the cab? Or do you use an isolator?

Sorry for the hi-jack, I feel that it is kind of on topic. Feel free to delete this and move it to PMs if you see fit!

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Nah its cool. I had a mechanical gauge but couldn't get it to mount right in my custom cluster without hacking up my dash or buyng more an fittings. But I had a stainless steel braided line running into the cockpit. No issues ever lol

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So many? haha I did it with one. I'll get some pictures tomorrrow! My dad got a bunch of them from his work so we'll see how long it lasts =]

Yeah I could only get short one inch straights so I had to build it out with a 45* fitting at the end that the sender screwed into. I wish I had pics of it but I'll look when I get home. Def be able to get a pic of the new steel extension for you though just to give you an idea.

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Well I got it! We'll see how long it lasts before it leaks since it seems inevitable =\ conveniently enough, I only needed one extra fitting as seen in the first picture

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Here is a picture of here all mounted up and ready to be wired in! the angle lowers the sending unit location and is also angled towards the front of the car some.

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Are they really? I've never heard that! But now that I think about it, all of our accurate pressure gauges at the shop are mechanical.

So, do you just run a oil line right into the cab? Or do you use an isolator?

Sorry for the hi-jack, I feel that it is kind of on topic. Feel free to delete this and move it to PMs if you see fit!

I have it mounted right in the cab, nit using the supplied shitty plastic line tho, I used a steel braided line just fyi

Jeremy

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Yeah mine needed more since I went the other way with it (out and angled back towards the headers). Well hopefully you have zero issues, shits a pain to get to.

Sent from Space

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Thanks man, Drive her around a bunch today, feels great! Needs some fucking gears in the rear though. Holy ballls does it take forever to run through the rpm range. Taking her out to a buddy's tomorrow so we'll see if that driveline issue got fixed with the new driveshaft!

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|.....Overnight.....................| ||

|........Japan Parts................||'|";,___.

|_..._...____________======||_|_|...,]

"(@)'(@)""'''''''''''''"'''"**|(@)(@)*****"(@)

Stop breaking parts so those tails can go on...... OR sell them to me so you can get your car fixed!!!!! PM me with price ;)

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Glad to hear you got the sender issue resolved!

I still haven't gotten around to dealing with it on my car. I will continue rocking the non-functioning oil pressure gauge for now until I find time to mess with it lol.

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If you wanna set yours up just like mine, I've got extra fittings like the angles that I used.

SO one step forward, two steps back as now I've got this trans issue to figure out. I think I might have lucked out on any major synchro or actual gear damage and maybe just bent a shift fork. I can still engage all gears, no grinds or weird noises, I just can't smoothly shift from one gear to the next. Probably going to try and do this the cheapest way possible and see how difficult it is to put in a new shift fork to take that route.

On a side note, my buddy is helping me put in through floor subframes on the 22nd of the month. He's trying to convince me to let him weld in a cage as well so we'll see what ends up happening. Exhaust should be finished at the same time as well.

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If you wanna set yours up just like mine, I've got extra fittings like the angles that I used.

SO one step forward, two steps back as now I've got this trans issue to figure out. I think I might have lucked out on any major synchro or actual gear damage and maybe just bent a shift fork. I can still engage all gears, no grinds or weird noises, I just can't smoothly shift from one gear to the next. Probably going to try and do this the cheapest way possible and see how difficult it is to put in a new shift fork to take that route.

On a side note, my buddy is helping me put in through floor subframes on the 22nd of the month. He's trying to convince me to let him weld in a cage as well so we'll see what ends up happening. Exhaust should be finished at the same time as well.

Replacing shift forks is a piece of cake. I've never done more than replace the speedometer gear in my T5 but I saw how easy those would be when I had my trans open.

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I think it could have. I've got bigger things to worry about Hahah my trans mount got nigger rigged under the pressure of my dad when I was putting it in. Ive gotta grind the welds off my cross member and shift it forward so the trans mount is centered. But from what I could tell, it definitely did make a noticeable difference

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