Det_Riot's Sexual Teal Whale Cannon Resurrection

[mustangmanjeff]

if you dont mind me asking , I have one question, why did you go with the mustang v6 "120mph" speedo in your gt? your speedo will be off being stock are cars have the 150mph speedo and rpms tach is diff aswell now with your mods you speedo most be way off did you @ least calebrate it so it wont be way off?

[Gallows]

Good luck getting things lined up with the trans/bell. I put a lakewood bell and 3550 in my 88 Notch and I had to massage the trans tunnel with a BFH and drill out one of the holes in the bell to get a bolt through for the starter after it was installed. Good times:grumpy:

[1997cobra]

It went right in!

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[Det_Riot]

Its done! It drives! I'll write up a good post later. Late for a birthday dinner!

[1997cobra]

How the hell are you late?

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[Det_Riot]

How the hell are you late?

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Lol when you tell your gf to be ready at 330 and she's not that's how you're late

[Schiffy]

Lol when you tell your gf to be ready at 330 and she's not that's how you're late

Find a new GF

Tapatalk made me do it!

[OnyxCobra]

It went right in!

that's what she said.

Its done! It drives!

bossome.

[Det_Riot]

Teaser!

[95riosnake]

Haha I like the way you think! Welders kick ass.

[1997cobra]

Haha I like the way you think! Welders kick ass.

thanks, I know I am haha

Hurry up with those pictures!

[Det_Riot]

he got a stage 3 I believe. Have some starter issues we have to deal with when he makes it back to my house. I have no Idea about anything to do with SBF motors, so I am of no help.

Correct, Spec stage 3. after driving it around today, it is crazy how little you need to engage the pedal to be fully disengaged. Literally depress the pedal about an inch, and you're ready to switch gears. Absolutely awesome

if you dont mind me asking , I have one question, why did you go with the mustang v6 "120mph" speedo in your gt? your speedo will be off being stock are cars have the 150mph speedo and rpms tach is diff aswell now with your mods you speedo most be way off did you @ least calebrate it so it wont be way off?

Oh not at all! Sorry I didn't get to it sooner, been busy this weekend. The car had the v6 120mph speedo it in when I got the car. Being it was my first car, I never really realized that it was wrong for a while after driving it. It's surprisingly pretty close since I have stock gears still. Tach reads about 2-300 mph high and the speedo is surprisingly pretty spot on.

Good luck getting things lined up with the trans/bell. I put a lakewood bell and 3550 in my 88 Notch and I had to massage the trans tunnel with a BFH and drill out one of the holes in the bell to get a bolt through for the starter after it was installed. Good times:grumpy:

Phew, glad I didnt have to deal with any of that! God down under there, put her up on my chest and put that little bastard in place. Bought all new hardware for it to make sure that everything was going to thread correctly!

thanks, I know I am haha

Hurry up with those pictures!

They're uploaded! Working on the post right now, just gotta take a dump!

[Det_Riot]

Alright, enough of this tomfoolery, I'm cleaned up and ready to make this post! As most of you have seen with my recent updates, the Memorial weekend project consisted of a trans swap! Since this was a heavily photographed project, I'll be writing it up in a a few posts.

Friday started late as I had to do a wheel bearing on my GF's jeep for her. No big deal, ended up getting started about 10-1030 Friday night at 1997cobra's house. Thanks once again for the help! Couldn't of done it without yah! (dawwwwww).

A list of parts needed for the swap were as follows:

-TKO 3550 freshened up to TKO 600 specs (26 spline input, 31 spline output, new internals, the works)

-Supposedly was a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, well the shifter itself only says "downs" on it with a fancy script so I'm not positive if it's a knock off triax or what

-31 spline driveshaft yoke

-Mcleod Racing Bellhousing and Motor Plate

-Billet Steel Flywheel

-Spec Stage 3 Clutch

-New Ford Racing Rear Main Seal

The first challenge in this entire ordeal was getting the car off the ground =p May sound similar but you try getting a jack underneath the car to reach a good jacking point....ain't gonna happen! That's where these trusty 2x4's come in handy! I normally have home made ramps buttttt forgot to grab them as I was leaving Friday =\

From here, I didn't take many pictures as it was pretty common and basic stuff. Remove shifter bezel, shift handle, and lower shift boot (or what was left of it). After that, drop the exhaust up to the headers. Remove the driveshaft by removing the 4 bolts on the flange of the driveshaft where it attaches to the pinion flange. After that, remove the two bolts that bolt the trans mount to the crossmember, Once these bolts are out, you want to jack up on the trans just a little bit to remove tension on the crossmember bolts. Remove the crossmember, then the 4 bolts on the trans, and you'll find myself were you here: (note this is also where I ended my night on Friday)

Saturday Morning: Let the real fun begin! Made a couple trips to autopart stores early to pick up everything we needed to do the swap. 4qts of GM Synchromesh, Pilot Bearing puller, and all the hardware we needed for the swap. 13x 3/8 bolts for bellhousing to motor plate, 6x 7/16 bolts for bellhousing to motor, and 4x 15mm bolts for trans to bellhousing, along with washers and nuts for the 13x 3/8 bolts.

Gotta love 4 legged help!

After pulling the trans, I saw how dirty my car is underneath. Gross! Only one small spot of surface rust so that will be taken care of soon, as well as painting the entire underside once I have to drop the rear end out to get it built. I did wipe it down though to the best of my ability to clean the garbage salt off from driving it to get tuned way back when =\

As you can see, my car does not like winter, luckily it's all surface and will be sanded down and POR15'd once I get the opportunity!

Next was to remove the OEM Foxbody bellhousing....this is where I started to realize just how fun this job was going to be with the longtubes installed....yah lets go with none at all. Though the pressure plate looked a little beat, the clutch was surprisingly not in bad shape at all!

Flywheel and flexplate removed and tear down was almost complete! Just had to remove and replace pilot bearing and rear main seal. I bought the rear main while chasing down an oil leak and turns out its valve cover gaskets. Swapped it anyways since I was down in there. Easiest way to do it for me was to drill a hole through the first layer of the rear main, thread in a screw, then pry it out slowly. Install was much easier, line it up and tap it in slowly using the old rear main as a guide to protect the crank. Pilot bearing was very similar, use the Pilot bearing tool from autozone and then the old on to tap it in.

New Rear main and Pilot bearing

[1997cobra]

Friday started late as I had to do a wheel bearing on my GF's jeep for her. No big deal, ended up getting started about 10-1030 Friday night at 1997cobra's house. Thanks once again for the help! Couldn't of done it without yah! (dawwwwww).

dawwww shucks <3

The first challenge in this entire ordeal was getting the car off the ground =p May sound similar but you try getting a jack underneath the car to reach a good jacking point....ain't gonna happen! That's where these trusty 2x4's come in handy! I normally have home made ramps buttttt forgot to grab them as I was leaving Friday =\

Ghetto jack is of no help

Gotta love 4 legged help!

That animal has Satan in its blood, I swear

[Det_Riot]

While I had everything apart, my clutch fork needed some attention, it had some gnarly surface rust on it so I tok the time to sand it down and spray it this fancy metallic silver. It was called Indy Silver

As with most swaps, it was going way to easy thus far. Before installation of the motor plate, we figured that attempting to hold nuts on the backside of all 13 of the extra bolts was going to be damn near impossible. Custom fab #1: Tacked in nuts on the backside of the motor plate for ease of install (THANK GOD WE THOUGHT THIS WAS A GOOD IDEA!!!!)

Went to fit the motor plate in and sure enough, doesn't clear the longtubes. Could of just clearanced the long tubes but it seemed like a much smarter idea to clearance the motor plate and bellhousing again. Once it was all said and done, I got about a 1/4" of clearance which was good enough for me. Put the new billet steel flywheel on and things were moving again as they should. Fit the clutch disc in, went to put in the old bolts again but they were the wrong thread pitch =\ custom fab #2

All was going well. Then re-installation of bellhousing came around. FML Needless to say, the bellhousing wouldn't fit between the long tubes in any orientation at all. After fiddling with it for about 10 minutes, it ended up that we had to drop a header. No way around it. No pictures of this as I was way too frustrated. Basically had to completely unbolt the passenger side header and motor mounts, then jack up the motor about 3" so that the header would drop to be more vertical, giving use the clearance we needed. Got the bellhousing mounted up, all 13 extra bolts threaded in and tight, 6 motor bolts threaded in, and header back in place.

It all goes downhill from here. Went to throw the starter back in since it would of been the easiest at the time and that little bastard wouldnt go in for the life of me. Wouldn't line up over bolt holes, wouldn't lay in the hold straight, nothing. Well crap. Gave up for a few hours and went to have dinner as I needed to just walk away.

Came back with a monster and some motivation. After some brainstorming, we determined the only possible way that it would not be working would be if the flywheel was wrong. So we removed the header again, jacked the motor back up, removed bellhousing, clutch and everything we Just installed all day. Got down to the flywheel and basically the teeth were in the complete wrong plane in relation to the motor. I'll let the pics do the talking. Over an inch wider than my oem one, and wrong offset from the crank. New one on top, old one on the bottom. So if anyone knows what this flywheel is used on, please let me know so I can sell it correctly unlike the fuckstick who sold it to me -__-

Put the old flywheel back on and everything bolted up as it should. Weird how that works. Didn't take any pictures and they look basically the same. Don't know how I never took a picture of just the bellhousing and the bolts but I guess I didn't :shrug:

Sunday started with getting the trans prepped and ready for install! Cleaned up the surface rust before we put it in. Installed like butter! Went right and just worked the bolts and got her tight!

While we reinstalled the headers, I threw down some paint on the trans mount because the salt was eating at the zinc plated energy suspension mount. At this point it was just hoping and praying that everything lined up on the stock crossmember......for whatever reason, the car gods decided to come through and it fit perfectly! Bolted the driveshaft in and it was smooth sailing from there. Rebolted exhaust, new shifter, tied up some loose ends and that was that!

As a bonus project, I ordered MRT's drill less hood struts. Easiest install ever. Such an awesome mod!

[Jeremy95GT]

What a great write up, not sure if I missed it, but did you put a complete list of all parts needed for the swap?

Did you have to do any driveshaft shortening or whatever?

Jeremy

[Det_Riot]

Thanks man! Driveshaft is and OEM length Ford Racing Aluminum. I've heard of people using a 5/8 spacer on the yoke just to help with distance but I haven't noticed any bad vibations so I think its okay.

Yah I did but here's a better one:

-TKO 3550 freshened up to TKO 600 specs (26 spline input, 31 spline output, new internals, the works)

-Supposedly was a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, well the shifter itself only says "downs" on it with a fancy script so I'm not positive if it's a knock off triax or what

-31 spline driveshaft yoke

-Mcleod Racing Bellhousing and Motor Plate

-Billet Steel Flywheel

-Spec Stage 3 Clutch

-New Ford Racing Rear Main Seal

-4 qts Penzoil Synchromesh

-13x 3/8 bolts for bellhousing to motor plate and nuts

-6x 7/16 bolts for bellhousing to motor

-4x M12 X 1.75 X 44.5

Edited May 28, 2013 by Det_Riot

[1997cobra]

Those were m15? I thought the head was 15mm

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[Gallows]

You must notice a huge difference with the 3550 over the T5. Mine felt worlds ahead of the T5 it replaced.

[Det_Riot]

Those were m15? I thought the head was 15mm

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My mistake. Yes they were 15mm head, idk what the size was, do you remember?

edit: m12

You must notice a huge difference with the 3550 over the T5. Mine felt worlds ahead of the T5 it replaced.

Oh god, t's like a new car! The trans is so tight, it basically pushes me into the next year with such little effort! and the new clutch is phenomenal! Literally depress it an inch and I've got full disengagement. It is awesome =]

[SVTurbo 98]

Heck yeah man... Is there a part number on the flywheel?

[Det_Riot]

Heck yeah man... Is there a part number on the flywheel?

I don't believe so. Its 14 1/4 in diameter, 6 bolt, but that's about all I got out of it

[OnyxCobra]

Good work dude! Sucks about the speed bumps you ran into but that's how it works sometimes, at least it's done and you can enjoy it.

[1997cobra]

I don't believe so. Its 14 1/4 in diameter, 6 bolt, but that's about all I got out of it

Did we ever compare that to my old flywheel? maybe its for a mod motor?

[Jeremy95GT]

On that plate you welded all the nuts too, why is the one that goes between the t5 no require bolts but this does? I'm confused

Jeremy

[Det_Riot]

Good work dude! Sucks about the speed bumps you ran into but that's how it works sometimes, at least it's done and you can enjoy it.

Thanks man! You're gonna love your t56 once you finish it!!

Did we ever compare that to my old flywheel? maybe its for a mod motor?

See this post below:

I don't believe so. Its 14 1/4 in diameter, 6 bolt, but that's about all I got out of it

On that plate you welded all the nuts too, why is the one that goes between the t5 no require bolts but this does? I'm confused

Jeremy

I'll link the pics when I get the chance. Idk if its required with all sfi approved bell housings or if they're all done up in similar fashion but because its a blow through bell housing, the extra 13 bolts are there to keep it all together in the event of a clutch or flywheel failure. It'll keep all the broken components inside the bell housing instead of blowing through it, the floor, and whatever else may be n the way including your legs

[Blackmage]

That driveshaft seems like its ready to just fly right out....

[Det_Riot]

That driveshaft seems like its ready to just fly right out....

Yah I might grab a driveshaft spacer for peace of mind but its about halfway in

[1997cobra]

I think Its more then half way in, that yoke was long as shit

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[Det_Riot]

I think Its more then half way in, that yoke was long as shit

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Its a common problem for me :/ just can't get the whole thing in. The big thing though is clearance to bottoming out. You ant about 3/4"-1" of "play" of the driveshaft. I'll have to check it when I mess with that upper control arm

[Steve@CJPP]

Good stuff Bryan, see all the parts got there in time for you.

[Det_Riot]

Good stuff Bryan, see all the parts got there in time for you.

Thanks bud! You guys rock! Lemme know when those lower shift boots are in stick again. Hate to say what I used for the time being....... :look:

[Steve@CJPP]

Will do man, just keep reminding me.

[1997cobra]

You didn't take a pic of that fabulous piece of custom shifter boot excellence!?I might cry

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[Det_Riot]

You didn't take a pic of that fabulous piece of custom shifter boot excellence!?I might cry

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Lmaooo I'll take one today

[Blackmage]

Yah I might grab a driveshaft spacer for peace of mind but its about halfway in

Ah gotcha. just seems like its way out there hah

[Det_Riot]

Ah gotcha. just seems like its way out there hah

I hear yah. I guess the recommended amount of in and out play is 3/4" to 1" so I'll have to check that out

[1997cobra]

According to dts, you bottom your drive shaft out, then pull it out 1 inch. That is all the farther it should be out at ride height

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[OnyxCobra]

seems like it would make more sense to know how much is supposed to be in the trans. I'm wondering if mine needs a spacer too.

[Det_Riot]

According to dts, you bottom your drive shaft out, then pull it out 1 inch. That is all the farther it should be out at ride height

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Does it matter if the suspension is loaded or not?